r/r keeps killing battery?

[Clone]

RMStator has the stator+RR combo for a special price, don't know what it is as I just needed the stator.

[Matchless]

Are you sure there is a short between the yellow wires (while unplugged) and the frame? I think you mentioned the lights getting brighter when it revved and this proves some charging is taking place.
If there is don't despair too easily, you may be lucky and the stator may just have a pinched yellow wire! Those can be easily replaced.
Just the hassle of getting it out and back in, but thats already a given it seems.
I hope I am not giving you false hope, but it has been known to happen.

That wire that you found run by the PO, was it running directly from the main fuse to the ignitor? If so that does not seem correct. The positive feed to the ignitor should come of one of the ignition switched fuses and only be powerd when the ignition switch is on. On my bike it is the orange/white wire that also powers the brake ligts, 3rd fuse from the top.

[rusty boltz]

There is continuity with no resistance (0.00 ohms) between the yellow wire coming from the stator and the engine case while un plugged. It would be nice if it was just a pinched wire since the there was even resistance (.5 ohms) between all 3 wires coming from the stator which the papers consider acceptable. However when I had the carbs off I went through the wiring to repair all the twisted and taped connections and didn't see it pinched anywhere. Maybe removing the cover will reveal something else. I'm considering just replacing everything and rewiring the charging system from scratch so I can just forget about it. I know its expensive but so is all the tylenol this bike has required. I have a 78 gs1000 parts bike (which I completely forgot about) with a complete engine so I will test the stator on that one but I am weary since I really don't like doing things twice. I'll test it and if it's good I'll remove and inspect it. If all looks good I'll still be weary but hey it's already paid for. The RR looks completely different though, I'm not sure why since both bikes are only a year apart. I'll test today if it's no good then I'll just have to whip out the trusty credit card and give electrosport a call (thanks BassCliff!) I don't want to miss any more riding this year.

[rustybronco]

There is continuity with no resistance (0.00 ohms) between the yellow wire coming from the stator and the engine case while un plugged.

Shorted to ground stator.

[rusty boltz]

finally a break!

Shorted to ground stator.

Definitely.
I checked the one on the parts bike this morning. DVM tests were good. It showed .6 ohms between the three wires and infinite between the yellow and the case. I even poked the case in several areas as well as the frame just to be sure I was getting good contact and still showed infinite resistance. This is a good thing! The wires look pretty dusty but this bike has been sitting for close to 3 and a half years. The stator side of the bike is buried by junk right now and there is no front wheel on the bike (borrowed the speedo drive) so I cant move it. I'll have to put the front wheel back together so I can move it, no time now though. Stupid job! When I get it out I'll check the readings again and inspect the insulation on the coils. If all looks well then it's going in, if not I guess I'm just gonna have to throw some more money at it. Well I'm off to pick up the custom leather seat cover I had made for a bike I can't ride. Have a great day everyone and I'll be back on this tomorrow to try to figure out the RR differences ( one is small and black and has a seperate reg, the other is large silver and unitized). Thanks for all the help!

[rustybronco]

When I get it out I'll check the readings again and inspect the insulation on the coils. If all looks well then it's going in...

Sounds like the plan.

[Matchless]

Thats definitely a full short to ground. I actually meant that the yellow wires can be pinched inside the cover. If you are lucky that may save a transplant.
Anyway you have a spare, so good luck!

[rusty boltz]

Electrostat opinions?

Pulled the stator cover off and yep it's fried. A couple coils on it were a nice crispy black and the wires from it are brittle as twigs. Still haven't pulled the one off the parts bike yet. Still thinking about just ordering a new one instead. I'd really hate to be stranded because I put a used one in. I'm steering towards the Electrostat, both the r/r and stator. The cost is worth piece of mind. Any electrostat users opinions about the durability and output?

[rusty boltz]

chargin

Pulled stator off parts bike this morning and it looked like new. The wiring also appeared in good shape as well. Tested again with meter, still good. So in it went. Also swapped RR and did a lil fancy wiring. I didn't mess up the gasket so I didn't even need that. Slapped together, start bike... 13.9V at idle and no leaks. Did stator paper checks again. Lucky me! Total cost: $0.00 + headache. Now to spend money saved on that new back tire. Thanks again for the help.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Wow thanks BassCliff! Mine is the one on the left. I'm pretty sure it is either aftermarket or off another brand of bike. I just hope it is not fried from being on all the time. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

Check the Stator and if it is OK, then try the following...

The Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) is controlled by the Zener Diode below it.

The Zener turns the SCR on and off.

When the SCR is turned on, it sends the output of one of the legs of the generator to ground, thus curbing charging.

When the SCR is turned off, it does not allow the output of one of the legs of the generator to ground, thus the charge is consumed by the battery.

[Edit] I guess I am too late... This trouble shoot tip still holds though.

If you fully charge your battery (for instance) and then hook it to the bike and start the bike, the Regulator/Rectifier should replace the amps that were drawn from the battery by the starter.

So, it charges for a bit and then reduces the charge so that it does not overcharge the battery.

So, this might be what is happening, the SCR is always turned on...interestingly enough this is how a lot of SCR's fail, you cannot turn them off.

A positive voltage on the Zener should turn the SCR off, and thus the voltage at the battery will decrease since only two legs of the generator are charging. To do this simply put jump a wire quickly to the Zener.

You can trace where this wire goes to the wiring harness and unplug it.

To turn on the SCR, simply ground this wire.

The Zener is there simply as a switch. By varying the voltage to the Zener you will be able to control the charge to the battery.

If you do not see any changes in charge voltage, your regulator is whacked out... to put it technically!