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    Broke Piece From Carb

    I've been lurking this forum for about a month, it's really been helpful.

    Question: Do you all have any advice for re-attaching a piece that broke off the Carb body?

    While removing the Carb Float Pin during a rebuild yesterday, I broke one of the towers on the carb body that holds the float pin. See attached, I pointed at it with a red arrow.

    Is there any type of epoxy that can hold the piece back on the to carb? There's not too much direct force on this area of the carb, but there’s going to be a ton of vibration and it will be submersed in fuel.

    Thanks!!

    #2
    Search for "broken float post", some have had success with JB Weld, some with epoxys, good fix using a brass tube slid over the post, or look for a spare set of carbs and swap that body.

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      #3
      I used brass two a week or two ago seemed ok. we will see with time. And tried the aluminum weld rods they have now. That did not stick to good but I think rod should be good enough. I am just going to look for a spare in the future.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by buckeyemike View Post
        I used brass two a week or two ago seemed ok. we will see with time. And tried the aluminum weld rods they have now. That did not stick to good but I think rod should be good enough. I am just going to look for a spare in the future.
        That's what I did. Ran it rigged for a couple months, then just swapped the whole body.

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          #5
          What size carb (bike model) and which carb. I might have an extra carb body.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            It's the number 3 carb on a GS550 1980.

            Sounds like JB Weld will work from the forums.

            Thanks again!

            Comment


              #7
              I had the same problem and ended up replacing the body, but after reading many threads on the subject, it is crucial to thoroughly clean/dry the piece and let the epoxy set for at least 24 hours before reassembling.

              Also heard that plumber's epoxy putty works well too. It has gasoline tanks listed on the tube for suggested uses.

              Good luck!

              Comment


                #8
                Yep, I'm in process of rebuilding the carb to it's pretty clean. I've read that acetone should be used to clean the area before using JB Weld. Will the regular carb cleaner spray do the same thing?

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                  #9
                  JB weld is not a good solution.. I also have a broken post on a 550 I just got, it wouldn't run... when I took the carbs apart the JB welded float post was just flapping around in the float bowl.

                  I would insert a pin between the two pieces, interference fit (at least that's what I am going to try anyway.

                  Dan
                  1980 GS1000G - Sold
                  1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                  1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                  1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                  2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                  1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                  2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                  www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                  TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                    JB weld is not a good solution.. I also have a broken post on a 550 I just got, it wouldn't run... when I took the carbs apart the JB welded float post was just flapping around in the float bowl.

                    I would insert a pin between the two pieces, interference fit (at least that's what I am going to try anyway.

                    Dan
                    JB Weld failed for me as well, but there are things I might have done to improve it's chances. Still I consider that a "I need to really fix it ASAP" kind of solution.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Short of replacing the carb, welding it works. I took mine to a local weld shop and had it welded...for about the price of one used carb!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Zook View Post
                        Short of replacing the carb, welding it works. I took mine to a local weld shop and had it welded...for about the price of one used carb!
                        Have to use TIG right?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                          I would insert a pin between the two pieces, interference fit (at least that's what I am going to try anyway.

                          Dan
                          Pin them together, it will work.
                          This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.


                          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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