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Starter shorting out main fuse?

  • Thread starter Thread starter burp reynolds
  • Start date Start date
So it runs without using the starter and doesn't blow the fuse..What are the odds that its the selenoid internally shorting the +side of the battery as it supplys current to the starter ? If you pulled the lead going from the starter
off the selenoid jury rigged an inline fuse on that lead the same rating as your main fuse connect an external battery with the - lead going to ground the + side thru the fuse and crank the starter to see if the fuse still pops if not I'd say its the selenoid getting hot from the current its supplying. That would nail down the starter as being bad if the fused did pop that way. Once it poped check the power bolt on the starter to the case to see if it shows a short. That must have been some ride without a seat ouch... If i could only spell I would rule the world...:D
p.s. you did check the wire from the selnoid to the starter for any signs of it rubbing up against metal and shorting that way.
my bad you said the tank was off silly me...
 
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Burp,

"r/r" is "regulator/rectifyer", oh, wait, maybe its "rectifyer/regulator".

Anyway, its one of the two main parts of the charging system, the other part being the stator.

.
 
Ok, but

Ok, but

Rzrxif said:
I had that problem also turned about to be my alternator/stator not my starter on my 550.
Click to expand...
Ok, but did your starter test as a closed circuit? I'm really starting to wonder if a starter is just supposed to act that way and that I'm just nuts.
 
So get THIS!

So get THIS!

I thought we had this figured out. I won a used starter on ebay for about 20 bucks shipped, and tested it through the solenoid by holding the case against the bike. It spun great for about a second and a half - just as long as the old one did - and then the fuse blew again. Dug out my roommate's voltmeter, and found the starter to be a dead short. What are the odds that a starter supposedly pulled from a running bike was bad? Maybe my bike turns starters bad? Are any of you guys familiar with voodoo? :confused:
 
lucabond said:
So it runs without using the starter and doesn't blow the fuse..What are the odds that its the selenoid internally shorting the +side of the battery as it supplys current to the starter ? If you pulled the lead going from the starter
off the selenoid jury rigged an inline fuse on that lead the same rating as your main fuse connect an external battery with the - lead going to ground the + side thru the fuse and crank the starter to see if the fuse still pops if not I'd say its the selenoid getting hot from the current its supplying. That would nail down the starter as being bad if the fused did pop that way. Once it poped check the power bolt on the starter to the case to see if it shows a short.
Click to expand...
Oh, right. So the fuse is between the solenoid and the starter? I could try that. Oh, and I did check the power bolt on the starter with a voltmeter and a circuit tester. Both say that the starter completes a circuit. This is the thing i want to be most clear on, because I want to be sure that this is definitely a problem. Not the problem, but a problem. I want to make sure everybody notices this line because it's the thing that is most suspicious to me. I clamped the black wire from my battery charger to the case of my starter (both starters now) and clamped a turn signal bulb onto the red wire from the charger. When I pressed the bulb's anode onto the positive post that connects the starter to the solenoid, the bulb lit right up. Is this the way a starter is supposed to behave? I am beginning to wonder if I have been missing something all along, so I want to know what God Himself would say if I posed that question to him. And I'm talking Old Testament God, the one where everything's black and white. Ten Commandments, no exceptions. Is a starter definitely not supposed to appear to complete a circuit? That's all I want to know. :pray:
 
burp reynolds said:
I clamped the black wire from my battery charger to the case of my starter (both starters now) and clamped a turn signal bulb onto the red wire from the charger. When I pressed the bulb's anode onto the positive post that connects the starter to the solenoid, the bulb lit right up. Is this the way a starter is supposed to behave
Click to expand...
Yes.
the starter has a low resistance, (but not zero) that would allow current to flow to the light bulb, and would have very little effect on the bulbs brilliance.
BUT, the bigger question is, how much current does the starter draw? put an in-line fuse, (5 or 10amp, not sure how much starters draw) from the positive of the charger and hook that to the post on the starter.
does it blow then?

now I have a question for you... when did light bulbs start having anodes? :) (or cathodes for that matter)

so I want to know what God Himself would say if I posed that question to him
Click to expand...
I suspect He would say... don't worry about the starter, worry how you treat others...
 
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Remember, the starter is not the only thing drawing current, when it is being spun.
but it may be the thing, putting the amperage draw over the top, and the result is the fuse blowing.

did you disconnect the rectifier/regulator (R/R) yet?
 
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You have short somewhere. Maybe even the fuse block. Maybe karma for not buying my starter. ;)
:D
 
chef1366 said:
You have short somewhere. Maybe even the fuse block. Maybe karma for not buying my starter. ;)
:D
Click to expand...
I sure hope it is just a short. And I still might be buying that thing. Let's see what happens today.
 
I am not sure if you have proven the solenoid yet as not the culprit. Just disconnect the main lead to the starter so the starter does not spin and with everything on listen to make sure the solenoid clicks on and hold it there for a minute or two and see if the fuse still blows. Maybe the coil in the solenoid causes the fuse to blow once it heats up a little? or else just replace it and try again.
 
OK, here's what I did.

OK, here's what I did.

rustybronco said:
put an in-line fuse, (5 or 10amp, not sure how much starters draw) from the positive of the charger and hook that to the post on the starter.
does it blow then?

now I have a question for you... when did light bulbs start having anodes? :) (or cathodes for that matter)

I suspect He would say... don't worry about the starter, worry how you treat others...
Click to expand...
I got a test lead with a 10A fuse in it, and holding the new(used) starter against the frame of the bike, jumped the post on the starter to the battery. This blew the HELL out of that 10A fuse. Should I try it with a 30, or are we done here? Has anyone tried this with a starter known to be good?
Isn't an anode just a post through which electricity flows into a component? :-s

OH, and I tried holding the start button with the starter not installed, and the fuse didn't blow.
 
burp reynolds said:
I got a test lead with a 10A fuse in it, and holding the new(used) starter against the frame of the bike, jumped the post on the starter to the battery. This blew the HELL out of that 10A fuse.
Click to expand...
I don't have an ammeter, to be able to tell you the no load current draw of the starter, in start and run conditions.

can you measure, the resistance of the starters, and see if they are the same?

when measuring the resistance of the starters, be sure to zero out the meter you are using.
 
rustybronco said:
I don't have an ammeter, to be able to tell you the no load current draw of the starter, in start and run conditions.

can you measure, the resistance of the starters, and see if they are the same?

when measuring the resistance of the starters, be sure to zero out the meter you are using.
Click to expand...
Yeah, uh, for a guy whose dad is an electrician, I'm woefully inept with those things.:oops: And as far as asking him goes, he donna speekka eenglish so verry good, you know?
 
Don'na need engli, if you get him to come over, with an inductive ammeter and he dvom....
and say dad?????????????????????

I wish I could find the starter spec's.
 
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Item_______No-load data__________Locked-rotor data

Voltage........11 volts........................5.5 volts

Current.........50 amperes or under.....280 amperes or under

Torque........................................./ .35 kg-m or over

speed........... 4,500 r/min or over
 
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Wha?

Wha?

rustybronco said:
Item_______No-load data__________Locked-rotor data

Voltage........11 volts........................5.5 volts

Current.........50 amperes or under.....280 amperes or under

Torque........................................./ .35 kg-m or over

speed........... 4,500 r/min or over
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks. So, I think I can guess at the first set of numbers, but I have no clue about the second set. This is probably a good time to mention that I'm not, uh, I guess you say, bright. I'm going to run with what I think the green set means, and suppose that under normal conditions, a good starter should not blow a fuse under 50A. Is that what I'm supposed to be thinking? Like I said, the orange numbers are freaking me out.
 
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