Headlight Questions

[Guest]

The OEM headlight on my '79 GS850G is rated at 40 watts on LO Beam and 50watts on Hi Beam. The bike is strictly as delivered by the factory except for a Dyna S ignition I installed many years ago.

Would some of you electrical gurus out there please weigh in on these questions:

(1) Would the wiring be able to stand a standard H6024 Halogen sealed beam rated at 40 and 60 watts?

How about 55 and 65 watts? The better Sylvania XtraVision and Silverstar H6024 lamps are rated at 55 and 65 watts, and I would like to use one of those if I could--or would that be too risky?

(2) When I ride at night, I can see the Hi beam and all the instrument lights dim slightly and intermittantly. It's not a big difference, but it's noticeable. It's like it's putting out the full 50 watts and then suddenly it changes down to, say, 47 watts for a few seconds and then it goes back to 50 watts for a few more seconds then back down... It only stays at one level for maybe 5 seconds before it changes. Guys that ride behind me do NOT notice the taillight doing this.

I think this only happens when the bike is being ridden, and as near as I can tell, ONLY on Hi beam. I can't duplicate the condition while parked. Yesterday, while I had the headlight out of its enclosure, I turned the light on and moved around all of the wires that hide behind the headlight, but the light was as steady as it could be--no flickering at all.

I've checked all connections that I can find and all are tight. Could this problem be in the handlebar switch, maybe caused by road vibration?

I don't know how to isolate this problem. Thanks for any help anyone can give.

Tomcat

[Steve]

Personally I would think that it could handle it. However, the '79 850 had a slightly smaller stator than the rest of them. When they eliminated the kick starter for the '80 models, the 850s (and possibly the others) got a higher-capacity charging system to make sure the battery stayed charged.

You can always check your connections in your charging system to make sure they are clean and tight. Put a voltmeter on the bike and go for a ride. If you are holding 14+ volts, go for the brighter lights. Keep in mind that your light is a sealed beam, and to use the brighter H4 bulbs, you will need to get a reflector/lens assembly, too.

If you find that you need to upgrade your charging system, it won't be quite as easy as changing the stator. You will have to change the rotor, too. When they went to a higher-capacity system, they also went from a 12-pole to an 18-pole stator. I don't believe the two are compatible, so you will have to change the rotor along with the stator.

Let us know how it goes.

.

[lucabond]

The differance between the 50 or 60 watt bulb is an amp in draw current.
. Which means your old wiring harness would have to supply an extra amp.
I would think your bike could handle it but maybe not your old wiring.
I would do a coil mod with a relay just power the headlight with the coil.
This would leave less draw on the old harness and full battery voltage at your headlamp. You may want to try this with your old headlight before you swap as it may be brighter that way. I did this with my bike and the headlight is much brighter I also put my dash and running lights on the same feed. Now that my old harness doesnt have to supply current to those lights my blinkers work better. Before that my headlight would dim and the opposite turn light would blink dimmly. Now everything works great. Just your headlight draws over 4 amps which is alot of juice for the old wiring we have.
Good luck
Paul

[loungeguy69]

The wiring should be able to handle the extra amp (actually .84 amp) but it sounds like you have other electrical issues.

The above advice regarding the voltage meter is good but I'd recommend doing it while stationary and running at ~3000rpm (harder to crash while looking at the meter that way). Also check connections and especially ground points. Poor ground contacts cause lots of problems but are simple to fix (clean 'em).

[tomcat24551]

Thanks for the input, guys.

I'm probably going to use the 40/60 watt standard sealed beam and hope for the best. I am going to put the voltmeter on the circuit too, and see what I get.

Steve, you are right. The '79 850 had a 75 watt Alternator while the later models had an 80 watt unit. Thanks for your info about the units' compatibility. I may switch to the 80 watt unit down the road.

Also, for what it's worth, the Sylvania XtraVision and Silverstar bulbs are available in H6024, 7 inch sealed beam units at AutoZone and Advance Auto stores. You don't have to switch to the H4 style bulb.

Lucabond, I wish I was smart enough to do the relay modification you describe. Sounds like a good idea. I have duly noted your suggestion though, but right now it's over my pay grade.

If anybody can add anything further about the flickering headlight on high beam, I'm all ears.

Thanks again, guys.

Tomcat

Note: My info above regarding the capacity of the '79 Alternator vs. the later models should read Volts, not watts! Thanks for calling this to my attention.

[glenlloyd]

I think that you would be happier with the beam pattern from a true motorcycle H4 lamp. They are very close to the european patterned auto lamps that DOT refused to allow in the US (OE that is) for years but were available aftermarket for "off-road" use.

good luck on what ever choice you make.

steve a

[Steve]

Hey, you can learn something here every day.

The '79 850 had a 75 watt Alternator while the later models had an 80 watt unit. ...

I knew it was bigger, but had never known the numbers. Thanks.

Also, for what it's worth, the Sylvania XtraVision and Silverstar bulbs are available in H6024, 7 inch sealed beam units at AutoZone and Advance Auto stores.

It has been so long since I have had to look in the sealed beam section, I really have not kept track of what's in there.

Lucabond, I wish I was smart enough to do the relay modification you describe. Sounds like a good idea.

It's not really that hard. Cost is under $10, the added light on the road is priceless. There might be info still to be found in a search, but I think I also have diagrams and/or schematics on my compter at home, if you are interested.

I think that you would be happier with the beam pattern from a true motorcycle H4 lamp. They are very close to the european patterned auto lamps that DOT refused to allow in the US (OE that is) for years but were available aftermarket for "off-road" use.

I have always made it a point to keep all of my headlights "off [the] road".
Usually about three feet off the road, directly above it.

Since the day that I put a Cibie light in my '77 KZ650, I have been a firm believer in Euro-spec lights. To make them even better, I have also used 80/100 watt bulbs in the vehicles that had charging systems that could handle it, except for my Wing. The Wing has plastic parts for the headlight reflector and lens and will not handle the added heat. I also have a headlight modulator that has a limit of 150 watts, so the two 100-watt bulbs would exceed that. I make up for that with the addition of 55-watt driving lights.
With 220+ watts of lighting being thrown ahead of me, my riding season is extended right into light .
Charging system? No problem. It's a commercially-available modified 90-amp alternator from a Saturn.

.

[wilmas2cool]

On our 79 GS850GN we ran a 100watt high and 50 watt low beam halogen bulb for years with no problem. It's still in there along with all of the factory original bulbs still burning. Don't know how that happens.

[peterjf50]

Since this is a headlight thread, slight hi-jack

According to fisch for my 81 1000L model the stock replacement bulb is an H14, however I cannot find an H14 anywhere? Anyone know of a replacement number?

[rustybronco]

The '79 850 had a 75 watt Alternator while the later models had an 80 watt unit. Thanks for your info about the units' compatibility. I may switch to the 80 watt unit down the road.
Tomcat

wouldn't that be a 275 watt or 280 watt alternator.
75-80 watt output is way to low.

According to fisch for my 81 1000L model the stock replacement bulb is an H14, however I cannot find an H14 anywhere? Anyone know of a replacement number?

It would be a H4 bulb in yours. (known as a 9003)

[glenlloyd]

Since this is a headlight thread, slight hi-jack

According to fisch for my 81 1000L model the stock replacement bulb is an H14, however I cannot find an H14 anywhere? Anyone know of a replacement number?

Must be a typo, should probably read H4, not H14. That is if you're looking at headlight bulb. In the US you can also buy these under the 9003 number if not listed as H4 directly, they are the same type bulb.

steve a

[Billy Ricks]

wouldn't that be a 275 watt or 280 watt alternator.

When I first saw the 75 and 80 watt figures I thought it looked awfully low. My 700 has a 310 watt system in it.

[rustybronco]

50 watts for the head light + 80-100 watts (guess-timation) for the coils, now you are in negative territory.

[ChicagoRob]

Must be a typo, should probably read H4, not H14. That is if you're looking at headlight bulb. In the US you can also buy these under the 9003 number if not listed as H4 directly, they are the same type bulb.

steve a

Maybe not. Remember some of the L's have a different light. The boy's '80 550L has what looks like a standard 7" light with an H4. (Just replaced the bulb.) My '82 1100L has a 6.5" light that is _not_ an H4. (I wish it were, but it's not. ) I ordered a bulb from Flatout right off of the fische and it doesn't fit. (It's an H4, calling it a spare for the boy.)

The inside of the light is stamped 12V 25/35w. Does anyone have an owner's manual for an '82 GS1100GLZ? I'd love to find out what actually fits in there...

Rob

[peterjf50]

thanks for the info.

On a seperate note has anyone converted there headlight to HID?