Honda Regulator/Rectifier

[550ERAT]

Would love to see pics of this!!!!

well since the forum went down i re did the r/r installation.

I moved the r/r to the left side of the battery and fabricated a mounting plate out of sheet steel.

This plate now has the r/r mounted to it as well as a cpu fan.

The cpu fan is engaged when the bike is in neutral and in first gear, and disengages when in all other gears, since air flow is highest when the bike is in motion.

It is a much cleaner installation and looks factory.

A note on the circuit the neutral is actually wired on a different circuit with the switch grounding it through the blue wire for anyone trying this.

Gears 1-6 are accessed through the harness plug connector under the tank.

[GQROD]

Would love to see pics of this!!!!

I tried posting a pic of the fan on the r/r and the wiring but somehow could not get them to post i will have to set up a spot on photobucket to post the pics sorry for the delay.

I still have to get some color coded white with yellow stripe wire to hook the fan up to the first gear part of gear selector switch.

I also have to install a high amp circuit breaker to the new starter to prevent it from frying the cables.

The old starter motor was engaging while the engine was running slowing the engine down and the wires got so hot it made the battery bubble!!!! and heat up.

I just don't know how many amps is normal for the motor to draw?? anyone know?

I have seen a 100 amp breaker and a 150 amp breaker, i think the 100 amp should be enough but i'm still not sure. Anyone want to chime in ?
( not to jack the thread ) thanks.

[GQROD]

Here's the thread to photobucket page showing the fan install. I'm still routing wires so the compartment isn't done yet.
http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/r...stallation.jpg

Let me know if there are problems viewing it. Photo was with a cell phone camera so the quality is not high.

Thanks

[duaneage]

I tried posting a pic of the fan on the r/r and the wiring but somehow could not get them to post i will have to set up a spot on photobucket to post the pics sorry for the delay.

I still have to get some color coded white with yellow stripe wire to hook the fan up to the first gear part of gear selector switch.

I also have to install a high amp circuit breaker to the new starter to prevent it from frying the cables.

The old starter motor was engaging while the engine was running slowing the engine down and the wires got so hot it made the battery bubble!!!! and heat up.

I just don't know how many amps is normal for the motor to draw?? anyone know?

I have seen a 100 amp breaker and a 150 amp breaker, i think the 100 amp should be enough but i'm still not sure. Anyone want to chime in ?
( not to jack the thread ) thanks.

I'm not sure why this would be necessary, the starter is only engaged for about 10 seconds at most. For the record it draws 20-25 amps depending on the engine being started.

[GQROD]

I'm not sure why this would be necessary, the starter is only engaged for about 10 seconds at most. For the record it draws 20-25 amps depending on the engine being started.

I thought it drew 85 amps that is why i wanted to put in a breaker, when the old starter went bad it was engaging when i was riding.

It may have been the relay so i have to test the resistance on it, but the battery was boiling and and very hot, so the motor must have been drawing too many amps,so i just wanted to take precautions for the new one.

[mixongw]

Mine is a R/R from a Goldwing. It has worked great for about 20 months.

[Billy Ricks]

Here's apic of my CBR1000RR unit with a case fan installed.

[GQROD]

Here's apic of my CBR1000RR unit with a case fan installed.

It looks good i'm glad i'm not the only one who is paranoid about overheating r/r's lol, hopefully the link to photobucket shows teh pic i put up.

I picked up the yellow and white wire today and i'll be wiring the first gear selector swicth to the fan in the morning. The neutral is done and working great.

[Thomas Kenny]

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/Magnafique100/Rectifierhookup2.jpg

Here is a photo of my hookup. Does it look correct? My battery is reading 12.8 volts static. With the ignition and lights on, engine not running I get 10.3 volts at the brake light switch. I started the engine and then grounded the green wire to the intended ground location and the lights got much brighter on the bike and then idle lowered a little. After about 20 second the ground wire got to hot to hold. I shut the engine off, hooked up the ground wire. Started engine. At 1100 rpm idle I get 14.2 volts, at 4,000 rpm I get about 16.3.???? Tom

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/Magnafique100/Rectifierhookup2.jpg

[Steve]

Here is a photo of my hookup. Does it look correct?

Not really, but can't tell for sure. What is plugged in to the female connector of the black wire?

The black wire should be put into the tail light circuit or another 'switched' 12-volt source, like the brake wire or horn wire. It has a T-type connector so you can unplug the tail light under the seat, insert the black sense wire, then re-connect the tail light.

.

[chef1366]

Good luck with those bullet connectors. I tried spade but they kept melting at the stator wires. I ended up soldering them. Problem solved.

[rustybronco]

Started engine. At 1100 rpm idle I get 14.2 volts, at 4,000 rpm I get about 16.3.???? Tom

16.3 volts is to high!
find out why you have only10.3 volts at your brake light switch and correct it.

[GQROD]

My green ground wire was too short.

I soldered a longer piece of wire ( same guage thickness )to ground the green wire to the frame where the battery ground wire is- just under the rear suspension adjustment knob.

I hooked up the sense wire directly to the battery and this has worked fine.

At idle i get 12.5 volts to 13.5 volts

I get no more than 14.5 volts when driving at 3000 rpm.

At about 4000 or more rpm i got 15 volts

It has been noted by other members with the same result that the battery may be overcharged with the sense wire on the brake light.

Since there is higher resistance in the main harness the sense wire reads lower voltage and the r/r sends higher voltage to the battery to compensate.

[chef1366]

I noticed something last night. I have the Honda R/R mod. When I hit my brakes the headlight gets brighter.

[duaneage]

There are options for installing the Honda RR sense wire, the vast majority of users have no problems with the tap off of the rear brake light switch. using a volt meter, if a big difference is noticed between the output of the red wire on the RR (not the battery) and the orange wire going to the switch, it would be best to determine why there is a large voltage drop. Power goes through the main fuse in the fuse box, over to the ignition switch, back to the fuse box and fuses, then to the wiring harness orange wires to power the bike. Older bikes have inline fuses but the path is basically the same.