Tune-up/Clean-up order...

[julien]

Hello all,

I have been ordering parts for my GS650G and waiting on them, in the mean time while I am collecting the parts I was wondering in which order (if it makes a difference at all) I should proceed.
This is what I plan to do (yes, you have convinced me to do it myself)

- Carbs clean (The O-rings are here, waiting for the float bowl gaskets) I have a gallon of berryman's cleaner.
- Oil change (I have the oil - waiting on the filter and filter o-rings)
- Spark plugs (I have 4 new NGK 2120 D8EA plugs)
- Tires (waiting on front and rear Bridgestone Spitfire S-11)
- Valve clearance check (I haven't ordered anything yet... I am not sure what shim to order? Do they have shim kits?)
- Air filter (waiting on the filter NU-2440)
- Tourmaster Transition 2 jacket (waiting for this to arrive as well) nothing to do with the tune-up (although I wanted to make sure that I am well protected (he he he))

I think that's it... please let me know in what order to go and if I missed anything that I should add to this list. I plan on doing this on weekends (expect for the small stuff (oil/plugs) which I can certainly do in the evening.

Thanks much.

[waterman]

Order really doesn't matter too much, except for the safety essentials. In this case, the tires and gear. If the tires are shot or of unknown age, plan on doing these first, never drive on suspect tires.

As for the mechanical work, pick your poison. The air filter and oil change are pretty easy. Air filter is kinda fun with the clips that hold airbox cover on, these come off easy but with oily fingers from holding filter in place it is a chore getting them to slide back on correctly without dropping.

Carb cleaning takes time and patience. If the pilot fuel mixture screws haven't been removed, you may need a solvent to get them to loosen. I soaked them with gasket remover and worked them back and forth to free. Patience is the key. Likewise, removing the float pin can be dicey, real easy to break a post if not careful.

The valves shims are reasonable straight forward but usually take a fair amount of time in cleaning gasket surface. You will not know which shims are needed until you measure clearance and remove shim to see its thickness. Most likely you will be able to move one or more of the shims around to get the proper clearance for that valve position. Thus you will only need to get shims for other valves that are out of clearance. I have been able to exchange shims with my local dealer if he has them. Even still, I have had to acquire a couple that he didn't have. Here z1 or other sources is reasonable ($5 a piece). This is probably the hardest task but not impossible with good tools and patience again.

One thing not listed but definitely needs attention is replacing the Orings between the cylinder head and the intake boots. These old orings dry out and break resulting in lean running conditions. When you pull carbs, remove intake boots with impact driver. Replace with new orings and bolts not the screws that suzukis used.

Sounds like a lot of work but the end result is worth it. You will be rewarded with a reliable, smooth performing motorcycle. Any questions about procedure, just ask.

[Steve]

With the items that you listed, order is not too critical. One thing that will need to be done that you did not mention is to sync the carbs. That should be done after the carb clean (duh) AND after the valve adjustment.

The only other thing that would be order-dependant would be the jacket. Save it for last, use it on your victory ride.

.

[Gimpdiggity]

I don't think the order really matters, but what I would do is make it so that it's the easiest possible.

For example, it doesn't really matter if you do the carb clean before changing out the spark plugs, but just make sure you do both at relatively the same time so that you don't have to go removing the gas tank and such more than once.

I am in about the same boat as you, waiting on parts while some other ones are already here.

My order is going to go as follows:
1. Replace the tachometer pickup at the engine. Doing this first because nothing needs to be moved or removed to get at it.
2. Clean/rebuild with o-ring kit the carbs. While I've got those out I'll be doing the intake boots and o-rings. I'll also be doing the cam chain tensioner at this time. All of these things are done right near the carb bank, so I figure I might as well do them all at once so I don't have to take the carbs off several times.
3. After I get all of that done I'll be replacing the valve cover gasket and reinstalling my half-moon seals. While I've got the valve cover off I'll probably check the valves and adjust them if necessary.

The reason for doing things in this order, for me, is to eliminate the need to constantly tear the thing apart. Like, for instance, I have all the stuff to rebuild the carbs right now...but why do that and put it back together just to have to take the carb bank back out to easily get to the cam chain tensioner??

[julien]

Just arrived......

One more part (or 2)... this is what our friendly UPS driver just dropped a few minutes ago...

100/90 H19 for the front and 130/90 H17 for the rear.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

MMMmmmmm! Yummy, fresh rubber!

As long as you adjust the valves before you vacuum sync the carbs, the rest can be done at your leisure. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCiff

[julien]

Great... I just ordered a carbtune from UK.
Looks like I will do the oil & filter this weekend, maybe the tire if I get to it.
I need to make some room in the garage so I can actually work in there.... wife agreed to get a small shed to "store" the boxes that are currently taking my garage space (YES!!!) So I will do that this weekend as well.

[julien]

Ok... let's get started

Alright guys...

I believe I have everything (do we really ever have everything?) for that big tune-up job. Carbs, valves, tires, oil, filter, fork seal, etc...
I may start tonight... I have butterflies.... anxious/nervous/excited...

I have printed out all the Basscliff info I believe I need (and a computer is never too far... just in case) .

Wish me luck... and I will let you know of the progress.

[BassCliff]

Good luck Mr. julien!

Did you mention 'new carb intake boots and intake O-rings'? Since you're doing all this work I would recommend attaching the carbs to some fresh O-rings and boots when you put them back on the bike. Keep us informed.

Don't forget, those "tutorials" on my site are just to familiarize you with the procedures. Please reference the manual and ask questions here when necessary.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[maro]

Not sure what you mean by valves? Did you already check your clearances and buy the appropriate shims? If not, definitely start with the valve clearances (while your carbs are soaking)..and get a spreadsheet from steve (do a search). This helped A LOT!!! checking the clearances was also not the easiest thing to do withouth the proper tool. Make sure to do a search for zip-tie method. Once I tried this method, everything was a breeze. Also, have a new gasket ready and be prepared to carefully remove the reminencse of the old gasket (too me 3 hours). Do a search for this as well. Then put the fresh carbs in and you are ready to synch.

Good Luck!

Alright guys...

I believe I have everything (do we really ever have everything?) for that big tune-up job. Carbs, valves, tires, oil, filter, fork seal, etc...
I may start tonight... I have butterflies.... anxious/nervous/excited...

I have printed out all the Basscliff info I believe I need (and a computer is never too far... just in case) .

Wish me luck... and I will let you know of the progress.

[Larry D]

GO MAN GO !!!!!!

Don't get in a hurry. You have all those nice shiney parts sitting there just begging to be installed. Work methodically and carefully. Before you know it you'll be riding on a beautifully running machine. You'll also know what's under your butt while riding along. Much better than simply taking to a stranger to work on it.

Good Luck !!

[julien]

Good luck Mr. julien!

Did you mention 'new carb intake boots and intake O-rings'? Since you're doing all this work I would recommend attaching the carbs to some fresh O-rings and boots when you put them back on the bike. Keep us informed.

Don't forget, those "tutorials" on my site are just to familiarize you with the procedures. Please reference the manual and ask questions here when necessary.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Mr. Cliff,

Yes, Yes, new boots and o-rings are in order.
Regarding your tutorials (I think better than the manual), sure... they will be my guide... knowing that this entire GS Community is behind me

[julien]

Yes to the valves, no I do not have the shim yet... I plan to take advantage of the Shim sharing club from this wonderful community. I plan on using the zip-tie method as well.

[julien]

Thanks Larry... yes, I want to get it done but I will take my time to make sure it is done well which was my reason on waiting for all parts to get here..... can't wait though

[julien]

1 night... did some work

Okay,

Last night I did some work.... first let me say "Thank God for impact driver"
Some of the screws were just glued to the bike.... I though I would not be able to take them out, but since I looked at the tool kit requirements from this great forum, I had my little impact driver and it saved the night.

Now onto what I have accomplished last night:

1. removed the carbs (I was nervous, and therefore I think it was harder than it really is).
2. Took the carbs apart (separated all 4 of them) and cleaned carb number 1. Berryman's dip, changed the o-rings, etc, etc.
3. Put back carb 1 together.
4. While the parts of carb 1 where dipping, I replaced my 4 intake boots (3 out of the 4 were falling apart. So new boots and O-rings of course.

and that was all....

Tonight I will try to get at carb number 2.