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makenzie71
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reddirtrider
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15156
- Marysville, Michigan
Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.
Originally posted by matchlessActually the space for winding the copper wire is limited to the distance between the iron core of each pole measured right at the bottom at its narrowest and then divided in half. In practice this relates to maximum 3 layers of #18 or #19 AWG wire.
maybe Matchless will pipe in again.
Originally posted by reddirtrider View PostI believe you want more turns to develop more current.
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makenzie71
I'd like to know as well...I was under the impression that heavier guage wire increased output as opposed to windings but in the end I think it's total copper material. Clarification would be excellent.
I'm also still researching compact external alternators. It would be poissible to run two generating systems together to get the additional wattage...so you'd have power through the normal range with the factory stator, and you'd have an additional powersource from an alt tapped off the countershaft. If I could find something small enough to fit under the carbs that would run off a shaft extension from the stator side through a modified cover that would be the bee's knees...get something truely modern and ditch the old stators and rectifiers both.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15156
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by makenzie71 View PostI'd like to know as well...I was under the impression that heavier guage wire increased output as opposed to windings but in the end I think it's total copper material. Clarification would be excellent.
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GQROD
Mounting an alternator off the timing shaft seems to make the most sense and would not cost that much. Since it's dry there other models could adapt this.
You would need a shaft extension and mod a new cover plate but that should be cake for someone with time and a little skill.
Hyundai alternators i know have been used on some custom bikes due to their small size.
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makenzie71
I'll look at hyundai alternators, but coming off that side isn't good because it would prevent you from mounting the alt under the throttles conveniently. It would interfere with the time gadgetry, which may or may not really matter. I guess I'll see how that turns out later.
I'm going the standard route for now, but I am going to look into devloping something here...not only would it be more convenient but you would get a LOT more power for much less money. You can buy used alternators for $20 on eBay all day long and have a generator and stable regulator all in one package. Seems great to me. Only thing is that the transition will be expensive. The whole setup would cost 2~3 times a new stator/rr.
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Matchless
Originally posted by rustybronco View Postthat's why I had a ? mark. I thought 17ga was used in the rewind tutorial.
maybe Matchless will pipe in again.
Hand winding #16 on an 18 pole stator is just about impossible and you will also lose a lot of space (thus windings) due to not being able to get the windings flush on the bends and adjacent each to other. Using #17 may be a bit easier, but still quite hard to do. Using #18 (metric equivalent of 1.0 mm diameter makes it just possible to hand wind nice tight windings and so get in a maximum of 3 full layers and then another half a layer from the top down.
My guess is that you would not be able to fit 3 layers (at the bottom of each pole) on two adjacent poles with heavier wire than 1.0mm on the GS 18 pole stator.
So basically it is not only the theoretical amount of turns and thickness to get an optimum output, but also the physical limitations that must be taken into account.
Hope this helps.
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Matchless
Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
I'm also still researching compact external alternators. It would be poissible to run two generating systems together to get the additional wattage...so you'd have power through the normal range with the factory stator, and you'd have an additional powersource from an alt tapped off the countershaft. If I could find something small enough to fit under the carbs that would run off a shaft extension from the stator side through a modified cover that would be the bee's knees...get something truely modern and ditch the old stators and rectifiers both.
I would not try it, but the expertise here on the forum could well make it easy for someone to do this?
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makenzie71
Space is certainly an issue, but I'm not hand-winding. I have a nifty gadget I built when I was screwing around making wind turbines. The stator frame locks down in a jig and this gadget applies a measured amount of "pull" to the wire to make the windings very tight and flush. I intend to try and adapt it to work with widing motorcycle stators.
Rewinding bike stators is something I really want ot figure out because there is NO ONE locally who does it. I could make a good chunk of change just from that alone.
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