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Getting a new stator...who to go with?

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    #16
    How do they handle warranty claims?

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      #17
      97,500 miles on my original stator.

      Nothing wrong with stock other than crappy connectors. I replaced the R/R with a Honda unit several years ago, but I still have the original and it was working fine.

      I'm just sayin'...
      Last edited by bwringer; 03-16-2009, 05:04 PM.
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
      2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
      2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
      Eat more venison.

      Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

      Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

      SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

      Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

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        #18
        I have mine hardwired in right now and still not really getting what I want.

        The stator actually passes dead checks. I can't test it while the bike is running because the damn thing has too screwed up an EM field...I can't get a meter within a foot of the stator while it's running or the read out goes ape****. I bought an F4i r/r and I'm going to wire that up and see what happens. Biggest issue is that I only have 12.9vdc...all the time...no matter the rpm...actually drops a little higher up. I just want it fixed...

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          #19
          Originally posted by focus frenzy View Post
          14.1 is what you want to see on the voltage and if it is reaching that at 2000RPM I can say it is working very well.

          anything above 14.2 volts is to high.

          with the Honda R&R that has the sensor wire, the closest to battery voltage you can get with the sensor wire the better. if you have a three volt drop from battery voltage on the tail light wire the regulator is going to adjust till it see's 14 volts on the tail light wire, and you will get 17 volts at the battery.

          the coil power relay mod is a good place to hook up the R&R sensor wire as the relay for the coils will be realy close to the voltage found at the battery.
          That is exactly what happened to me, 17 volts and an overcharged battery, i think if you have the bucks to spend it's wise to get a Rick's stator just to have peace of mind. For some models they are $40.00 bucks more.

          Comment


            #20
            Holy moly, back a company and get slammed.
            I used an RM Stator and it has been good to me, the staff was good to deal with.
            I used Rick's r/r it burned up after about 14 months, quite litterally burned up.
            Prior to that had an electrosport r/r which lasted just over two years.
            Do I tell people not to use those two companies because of my first hand experience?....No
            I tell them who has been good to me.
            Jeez, try to be positive once in a while

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
              The stator actually passes dead checks. I can't test it while the bike is running because the damn thing has too screwed up an EM field...I can't get a meter within a foot of the stator while it's running or the read out goes ape****.
              That sounds like a heck of a lot of arcing going on in your stator. arcing is the only thing that I know of that would put out wide band rf.
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

              Comment


                #22
                For stators, I think that OEM, Rick's, Electrosport, etc.... all will work fine for years if they are wired correctly and the reg/rec is in good working order. The original stator on my 700 lasted over 50,000 miles, and I believe it fried because I was riding around for who knows how long on a bad reg/rec and had loose connections all through my wiring harness. I hate to admit it, but other than replacing a starter solenoid once and the battery periodically, I did nothing to my bike electrically for about twelve years and 50,000 miles. I figured if it wasn't broke, why mess with it?

                When it finally did break, I didn't have the know-how to fix it, and couldn't find a shop willing to work on it. It sat for several years until I found this site.

                I've used Ricks, Electrosport, and scavenged Honda reg/recs, and had good luck with all. I have to say that I prefer the Honda units with the sensing wire (which I wire into my oil pressure sensing wire), but all will work fine. Bad individual units probably exist for each brand, but that is more dependant upon luck and quality control than design limitations.
                sigpic

                SUZUKI:
                1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
                HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
                KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
                YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

                Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

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                  #23
                  I believe Duanage stated not long ago that he has never seen a bad Honda regulator/rectifier, and he's seen more than anyone else, probably over a hundred. They were made by Shindengen and are outstanding quality.

                  I've also seen Shindengen R/Rs on some Kawasakis. FWIW. YMMV.
                  1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                  2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                  2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                  Eat more venison.

                  Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                  Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                  SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                  Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
                    That sounds like a heck of a lot of arcing going on in your stator. arcing is the only thing that I know of that would put out wide band rf.
                    I'm still trying to figure out why the meter freaks out, but I'm no expert in EMF.
                    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                    Eat more venison.

                    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                    SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                    Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                      I believe Duanage stated not long ago that he has never seen a bad Honda regulator/rectifier, and he's seen more than anyone else, probably over a hundred. They were made by Shindengen and are outstanding quality.

                      I've also seen Shindengen R/Rs on some Kawasakis. FWIW. YMMV.
                      Not doubting that the Shindengen RRs are good quality (I agree and like them myself), but one thing about the way Duaneage and the rest of us acquire them is that we buy them used and generally they come off of running bikes that have been parted out. It seems logical to me that any bad ones were probably discovered by the original buyer and replaced under warranty, or just pitched in the garbage.

                      Just sayin'......
                      sigpic

                      SUZUKI:
                      1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
                      HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
                      KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
                      YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

                      Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                        I'm still trying to figure out why the meter freaks out, but I'm no expert in EMF.
                        Maybe there's something wrong with the meter. That doesn't sound right.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          4 different meters. I don't have a really good meter, but our $3400 meter at work goes nuts as well. It's got an em field like I've never seen. I'm somewhat tempted to pull her out and re-epoxy the thing to see if it's just arcing/grounding.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
                            4 different meters. I don't have a really good meter, but our $3400 meter at work goes nuts as well. It's got an em field like I've never seen. I'm somewhat tempted to pull her out and re-epoxy the thing to see if it's just arcing/grounding.
                            If it's not the meter you've got a real problem. It's not a bad idea to pull it out and see wtf is going on. You've gotta' start with a good stator to get anywhere.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              108 Honda RRs sold so far, haven't seen a bad one yet. People have hooked them up completely wrong and they still worked afterwards. Tough little buggers.

                              If you are losing 3 volts from the Fuse box to the rear brake light switch, you really should find out why and correct it. A drop that far is going to heat up the bad connection a lot and cause problems.
                              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
                              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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                                #30
                                I found this...thought it might be nice...opinions? Will it fit the 1981 750? I can't find that part number anywhere...

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