Guys, seriously! Thanks for all the help! You guys are absolutely a godsend!
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Ryan Unfortunately
Damn Carbs! I haven't rebuilt a carb in YEARS... damn going on 5 when I still had my 68' Ford Mustang Coupe. Of course an Edlebrock 650cfm is much much bigger and I'm assuming easier to rebuild! I'm 25 btw, not that it matters. But I saw a thread about young ones liking the vintage bikes. New bikes are not my style. Neither are new cars. I like stuff that's older than me. It's culture IMO! Getting a nice Platinum Laura Smith Custom (hand stitched italian leather) helmet today for pretty cheapy cheapy! It's a 300 dollar helm and I'm walking away with it for a steal, imo, because it has a small scuff from the guys closet wall where it has been sitting forever. He didn't even wear it...LOL!
Guys, seriously! Thanks for all the help! You guys are absolutely a godsend!
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BassCliff
Originally posted by Ryan Unfortunately View PostProlly about a 1/2 mile. Not even maybe. Not far. I still have the rebel and access to my car... Haven't sold it yet. So, I can get the filter and oil in either the car or on the rebel. So, I can get it home, head to the Napa or Parts Plus or whatever is up the road and grab a filter (What part# or type of filter?) 10w40 (Specific type? I know non synthetic, but anything else I should know?) and a catch pan.
The oil change tutorial on my site is full of part numbers from different oil filter manufacturers. As for oil, I try to use 15w40 diesel oil. Synthetic is fine, probably better. Synthetic blend is OK. Even regular dino oil is OK as long as you change it often enough (every 2000 miles or less). Just don't use "energy conserving" oil, usualy 10w30. Sometimes I use 20w50 oil in the hot summers here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Ryan Unfortunately
I actually just got done going through your Pic-Tutorial. Pretty awesome! I just wish I had my tools here in Austin, as opposed to in my parents shed back in Albuquerque. I used to be a service technician at Ford, Nissan, and Toyota dealerships. All car stuff. The bikes are fairly new to me so I'm learning as quickly as possible. This helps a great deal! I will be calling some part stores in my area for the filter. Hopefully one of them will have one with a new O-Ring. I don't like reusing O-Rings. >_< Something about it scares me. I will most likely go with 10w40 as it isn't extremely hot here yet. Still gets sort of chilled at night.
Again, thanks so much for all this information! I really appreciate it.
EDIT: Yay...I get to buy a new socket...that I already own 2 of back in Albu... dammit. lol. Oh well, extra tools!Last edited by Guest; 04-02-2009, 04:30 PM.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by Ryan Unfortunately View PostEDIT: Yay...I get to buy a new socket...that I already own 2 of back in
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Ryan Unfortunately
I don't think it is. I will check in the Saddlebags that are in my car trunk, I will check both trunks that came with it. But I don't think there is a toolkit. I bet the seller would have mentioned that. In any case, I will look! =D
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Ryan Unfortunately
New Development
Alright, so I haven't started the bike since I got it home. I'm changing the oil tonight before it gets darkish. But I came across a thread about the plug near the clutch cable for the Oil Pressure light. Well, the plastic casing around the plug is cracked, and wiggling it around makes the Oil Pressure light turn off. So, I guess that the light wasn't coming on because of the gas in the oil...(Oil only smells like gas faintly...) So, is there a good way to fix that wire/plug so it's 100% accurate all the time and won't get busted up by the clutch cable again?
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BassCliff
Hi,
You can replace the lead wire to the oil pressure switch.
Part# 36853-45001 is $5.58 from alpha-sports.com. It's $3.34 from flatoutmotorcycles.com.
It sounds like you may have an intermittent connection too. You can see if you can tighten up the connector somehow. But I still worry about gas in your oil.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Ryan Unfortunately
Gasoline has been removed from the oil! =) So, all is well again in GS-Land. Thanks for all the help! =) I'm going to get that replacement wire as soon as payday rolls around! =) You know, I'd have to say that this is my favorite place on the internet... Well...almost favorite. =P
Oh and in case you didn't know. I finally added pictures. Just a couple.
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Originally posted by Ryan Unfortunately View PostSo Monday I picked up a 1980 GS850G. Loving it so far!
Originally posted by Ryan Unfortunately View PostI pulled a wicked FAIL move the first night I had it ...
Originally posted by Ryan Unfortunately View PostYou guys are F-ing AMAZING!Originally posted by Ryan Unfortunately View PostDamn Carbs! I haven't rebuilt a carb in YEARS... damn going on 5 when I still had my 68' Ford Mustang Coupe. ...
Just my opinion, I'll get off my soapbox and put it away for now.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Siblings and Spouses
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Ryan Unfortunately
A Wicked Fail Move is a choice or action taken or made by a person which usually results in a complete failure. So, I messed up big time, and pulled a "wicked fail move" by leaving the petcock on PRI. Similar to getting ridiculously drunk and then saying, "Hey guys check out what I can do!!!" Something always indicates, "this is not going to end well..." And chances are, it ends in the hospital.
=)
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