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In Desperate Need for Igniter Box

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    In Desperate Need for Igniter Box

    I would appreciate anyone that could steer me to where I could get a good igniter box that I am showing below:


    #2

    check feedback...
    Last edited by rustybronco; 05-02-2009, 12:11 PM.
    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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      #3
      maybe this could work too

      78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
      82 Kat 1000 Project
      05 CRF450x
      10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike

      P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.

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        #4
        I'm almost certain I saw that very same one listed on eBay the other day while I was looking around on there. Get on there and search high and low.

        I think I searched "Suzuki GS"

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          #5
          Get a Dyna S and a mechanical advance.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            Did you try any of these tests? Just because your mechanic thinks it's the igniter doesn't mean it is. If he didn't run any tests he is shooting in the dark.

            Here's how to check the igniter. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the igniter facing you, the plug on the right side of the igniter is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the igniter will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the igniter is good then the signal generators are suspect.

            As for testing the pickups, signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

            To test the coils put one probe of the multitester on each of the terminals on the primary side of the coil. You should get 3-5 ohms. Check the secondary windings by placing one probe into each of the plug wires coming from one coil. Those would be 2 & 3 from one coil and 1 & 4 for the other. You should get 30-50,000 ohms for stock coils and 15-20,000 for aftermarket.
            Last edited by Guest; 05-02-2009, 08:11 PM. Reason: grammar

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              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Get a Dyna S and a mechanical advance.
              What Bill said! Then you won't even need the ignitor & I can get you the Dyna S for about $135-140. How much will another ignitor cost you & how long will the 30 year old part last vs a NEW Dyna S, which I have never yet seen a failure on. Ray.

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                #8
                ddkolb

                +3 on what these guys are saying.

                Check it yourself and if bad, replace with Dyna S. Even do a Dyna Coil relay mod at the same time. (even better)

                Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.


                Great jobs showing your bike, and parts that really helps for anyone trying to answer you

                Pos

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