electrical problems

[rustybronco]

xxspikexx,
I'll be watching this thread. if you need additional help with the origional poor running condition, don't hesitate to ask.

good luck, and stay safe, Mr. Tool...

P.S. welcome to the GSR...

[xxspikexx]

well i got everything buttoned up and put back together. i tried to start it (no i dident test 4 spark yet i just wanted to see if it would start.. i dont have very good logic.) well it fired for about 2 seconds with the aid of starter fluid, and only one of the exhaust pipes was warm. (no.3) im alittle worse off than i was last 2weeks ago then 2&3 would fire. im scratching my head again but not as stressed welcome to ideas cause im all tapped out.

also when it fired when it died out there was a very loud snap sound from one of the tail pipes and i fired it again and it happened again just not as loud

[xxspikexx]

ok now im really confused cause i just checked what plugs were firing and only 2&3 are firing.... even with the coil mod and a used coil from Neanderthal Cycle in cali. and if i swap the plugs same story 2&3... maybe if i str8 connect just 1&4 and not connect 2&3? maybe ill get something so far its been just over a month of me having the bike. maybe a new igniter?? or an r/r?


and does anyone know of where i can get a reasonalbly priced igniter that isent over 200$ it would take me 6 months to save up enough for a new one. is it also possible that the wire may be just loose... or am i just being hopeful. and lastly what/how would i test 4 such a thing

[rustybronco]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141075&highlight=ignitor

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=964199&postcount=4

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=133014

[snip]A GS850GT cause it was affordable and reviews werent all that bad in comparison to others. the guy i bought it from said it just need a carb cleaning cause it has been sitting...

[snip] only firing on full choke. so i take the air cleaner, then carb and clean stuff up.

I have to question how well you cleaned the carbs. did you completely take them apart and clean them properly, including the passages in the float bowls?

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

[xxspikexx]

i tried to download the
Igniter document.pdf i signed up and for some reason i can not download it?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...hlight=ignitor


I have to question how well you cleaned the carbs. did you completely take them apart and clean them properly, including the passages in the float bowls?

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

i know i didn't do the full cleaning.. the main reason being the screw holding the bracket that holds the choke cable is frozen and partially striped before i tried to take it out. i tried to take it out but, fear of fully stripping it out completely i stopped. i was going to purchase the screws from my local suzuki dealer and drill the stripping screw out. and some of the others look alittle beat up so i was going to replace them all

(so far running down the list of tests checked the coil resistance 2&3 the one thats getting spark is at 32ohms. 1&4 is at 11ohms. i also bench tested the resistance of all the other coils the one that smoked and oozed. and the other one from neanderthal cycle those too came up as around 11ohms. next checking the igniter and signal gen. and plugs to the coils.)

[xxspikexx]

Testing

ok i tested resistance of the plugs to the coils (orange&white to white & orange&white to black&yellow) those were with in the limits mentiond by Mr. Matchless they were 3ohms and 4ohms

3pm- ok signal gen. checked out at 315ohms with in the range that was stated by Mr. Matchless and checked the volts on the black&white and the orange&white from the igniter again tested correct full power. now the last part of the test of the igniter now i know i wasn't getting spark on 1&4 and with the low ohm reading on that coil can i still do the last part of the test with the 1.5v dry cell?? since it is to stimulate a spark??

[rustybronco]

With the coil plug connectors disconnected, use an ohm meter and measure the resistance of both windings on each of the coils. Exact resistance measurements are not too important, but continuity of the windings close to the approximate resistance values given indicates that the coils are in good condition. It must be noted that it is possible for the coils to only show up a fault when at higher operating temperatures, but this does not happen frequently.

Ignition coil resistance:
Between the two HT plug caps of the same coil, secondary HT winding, approximately 30 – 35 K ohm
Between the orange/white and white on the first coil and orange/white and black/yellow on the second coil, primary winding, approximately 2-5 ohm. If this test is within limits you likely have two good coils.

so far running down the list of tests checked the coil resistance 2&3 the one thats getting spark is at 32ohms. 1&4 is at 11ohms. i also bench tested the resistance of all the other coils the one that smoked and oozed. and the other one from neanderthal cycle those too came up as around 11ohms. next checking the igniter and signal gen. and plugs to the coils.)

32 ohms??? 32,000 ohms possibly, but not 32 ohms and the same with 11 ohm reading... are you sure you are reading on the correct scale?

ok i tested resistance of the plugs to the coils (orange&white to white & orange&white to black&yellow) those were with in the limits mentiond by Mr. Matchless they were 3ohms and 4ohms

this measurement is ok.

[xxspikexx]

32 ohms??? 32,000 ohms possibly, but not 32 ohms and the same with 11 ohm reading... are you sure you are reading on the correct scale?

Quote:
Ignition coil resistance:
Between the two HT plug caps of the same coil, secondary HT winding, approximately 30 – 35 K ohm
Between the orange/white and white on the first coil and orange/white and black/yellow on the second coil, primary winding, approximately 2-5 ohm. If this test is within limits you likely have two good coils.


yes it was 11k i just rechecked it now its reading at 12k

my meter reads as a decimal and k or m at the ohm symbol

[Redman]

yes it was 11k i just rechecked it now its reading at 12k

my meter reads as a decimal and k or m at the ohm symbol

So you say You are reading 12K ohms thru one cap thru the coil thru the other cap, right? That total resistance would be the summ of the resistances of one cap + coil&wires + other cap, right?

What the book may not tell you is that the caps can be twisted off the wires. And you then can measure the resitance of each cap seperatly and measure the resistance of the coil&wires. And that each cap should be about 5K each (or is it 10K? someone verify please). SO you can twist off the caps and see if its the caps or if its the coils that is not the normal.

Caps are much cheaper to replace than coils.

.

[xxspikexx]

So you say You are reading 12K ohms thru one cap thru the coil thru the other cap, right? That total resistance would be the summ of the resistances of one cap + coil&wires + other cap, right?

What the book may not tell you is that the caps can be twisted off the wires. And you then can measure the resitance of each cap seperatly and measure the resistance of the coil&wires. And that each cap should be about 5K each (or is it 10K? someone verify please). SO you can twist off the caps and see if its the caps or if its the coils that is not the normal.

Caps are much cheaper to replace than coils.

.

this reading was done with the wire caps off and taken threw the wires so it went from wire-coil-wire, not cap-wire-coil-wire-cap there was little to no change with the caps on or off. i tested both ways. i took them off to put the probes in easier and allow hands free reading. for further clarification the probes were placed in each of the two plug wires to one coil.

the ohm reading for just the caps one was 9.34k the other was 231.1k

[rustybronco]

And that each cap should be about 5K each (or is it 10K? someone verify please).

5K is correct.

the ohm reading for just the caps one was 9.34k the other was 231.1k

9.34k may allow a plug to fire, but 231.1k is way, way over value. bad plug caps.

11-12k plus two caps at 5k each = 21-22K total. it sounds like the secondary coil windings are shorted.

do you have two coils that measure correctly, out of the four coils?

[xxspikexx]

5K is correct.

9.34k may allow a plug to fire, but 231.1k is way, way over value. bad plug caps.

11-12k plus two caps at 5k each = 21-22K total. it sounds like the secondary coil windings are shorted.

do you have two coils that measure correctly, out of the four coils?

yes coil for 2&3 read with the caps at 33.4k

ok so it "sounds" like i bought a bad coil... lol well im no worse off than i was when i got the bike..

ok now with the instructions on testing weather the igniter is working correctly involves using the dry cell battery wont tell me anything if i have a bad coil.. now im just wondering if im going to have more bugs to work out after/if i manage the $ for a new coil

thanx alot yet again my head just keeps going around in circles
and im going to need all new caps for optimum spark two bugs squashed i think

[oldgsfan]

Not on your electrical problem but on your carb screw problem. You might try an impact driver to remove those mangled screws.

I'm cleaning my carbs now and just about each and every screw on the damn things have been frozen solid, at least on the caps, including the one holding the throttle cable bracket.

I used a dremel to cut a slot in the top of each screw, put the carbs on some blocks of wood with some rags for a little cushion, squeezed them between my knees, pressed the impact driver into the slot and within probably five whacks was able to get each one loose.

Following the suggestions of some other posters, I'm replacing them all with hex top screws so I won't have to mess with them quite as much next time.

Good luck with the work. The electrical stuff drives me bonkers. I'm still using hand signals 'cause I haven't gotten around to fixing my blinkers.. which don't blink.

[rustybronco]

now im just wondering if im going to have more bugs to work out after/if i manage the $ for a new coil

thanx alot yet again my head just keeps going around in circles
and im going to need all new caps for optimum spark two bugs squashed i think

You can always have more problems. one at at, one at a time...

the plug caps can be dis-assembled and you can swap resistors from the good caps.
put a small straight bladed screwdriver in the hole where the cap attaches to the spark plug and turn it counter clockwise to un-screw the fitting. turn it over and a small resistor will fall out. insert a known good resistor and re-assemble.

you can also check the parts wanted section and see if someone has a coil for sale.

[xxspikexx]

You can always have more problems. one at at, one at a time...

the plug caps can be dis-assembled and you can swap resistors from the good caps.
put a small straight bladed screwdriver in the hole where the cap attaches to the spark plug and turn it counter clockwise to un-screw the fitting. turn it over and a small resistor will fall out. insert a known good resistor and re-assemble.

you can also check the parts wanted section and see if someone has a coil for sale.

well i think im going the new part route. i priced it out at 127$ free shipping if i go to a Suzuki dealer. and caps are cheap around 15$ ish. after my past and new experience with used parts. ill go new where ever i can.

that and i have an acquaintance at the local dealer who offered me a discount if i needed anything.. cant go too wrong