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    ANOTHER R/R question

    My bike stopped charging this W/E. I have charging voltage from all three wires from the stator into the R/R. I have two R/Rs, both of which pass the diode test, but neither is putting out voltage. It's possible that both R/Rs are bad.

    Is there a way to bench test the regulator function of the R/Rs to confirm/deny they are the problem? Another issue - is it necessary to clamp the R/R in position for it to work or is it enough just to hook the ground wire to ground?

    Thanks,
    JK.

    #2
    Where on ground are you grounding the R/R?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Mr. flyingace,

      What is the AC voltage output of your stator at idle? At 5000 rpm? What is the voltage difference between the output of your r/r and the positive (+) battery terminal?

      Does your r/r unit have a good, clean ground to the frame? Or is it grounded directly to the negative (-) battery terminal?

      I've had r/r units pass all of the passive tests and still be bad. Are you going through the Stator Papers? Also check Mr. posplayr's updates to the Stator Papers in the electrical odds and ends section of my website.


      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        I've grounded to the original R/R grounding wire and the negative battery terminal. No difference. The stator puts out about 25 volts at 2500 RPM and around 40-45 at 5000. I know that's a little low, but it's been that way for 2 years without a problem.

        Comment


          #5
          I believe both RRs could be bad. Get a known good and tested RR unit from Duanage and get back to riding......

          82 1100 EZ (red)

          "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

          Comment


            #6
            I may have to do the Duanage thing.

            First, one more question - if the R/R is getting charging voltage from the stator, should I be able to read the R/R's charging voltage directly with a multimeter? In other words if I ground the negative multimeter lead and touch the positive lead to the red wire from the R/R, should I be able to read voltage on a working R/R?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by flyingace View Post
              I may have to do the Duanage thing.

              First, one more question - if the R/R is getting charging voltage from the stator, should I be able to read the R/R's charging voltage directly with a multimeter? In other words if I ground the negative multimeter lead and touch the positive lead to the red wire from the R/R, should I be able to read voltage on a working R/R?
              Don't do that, it's not good for the regulator.

              try this... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...31&postcount=1
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

              Comment


                #8
                After trying a second R/R with no luck, I went back to the stator. This time, the tests on it were not as good as the first time. I traced the wires coming from the stator core, and what do you know - burned, corroded wires that overheated and fried. These were the ones running under the starter motor cover. Problem solved, but...

                How do I prevent this in the future? Is there another way to route them or is there some kind of protective sheath that will protect the wires from excess heat? I think the wires I hooked to the stator wires were a larger gauge then those yellow stator wires - can that cause the problem?

                Any suggestions in this area would be greatly appreciated.
                Last edited by Guest; 06-15-2009, 08:29 PM. Reason: spelling

                Comment


                  #9
                  Did you replace the wires or the Stator?
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I replaced the stator a couple of years ago. So I had new wires and a new stator at that time.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So you replaced the wires that were melted?
                      The starter cavity is a good place for the wires.
                      You could always shrink wrap all the wires.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        No, the wires are melted now. I replaced the stock wires when I replaced the stator because they looked in bad shape themselves.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          How did you solve the problem? Replacing the wires or the stator?
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment

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