I got a spare set of cv,s 1 had a damaged post,, anyway,, i purchased some low temp. Silver solder from my local hardware and wire brushed the 2 bits lightly ..lined them up with the pin... And soldered using the silver solder from the hardware store,don,t use ordinary lead solder as it will not work ... Hope this helps you it did work for me regards david from kaniva australia
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Float "post" broken - am I screwed?
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oldgrumpy
Float post broken......
I got a spare set of cv,s 1 had a damaged post,, anyway,, i purchased some low temp. Silver solder from my local hardware and wire brushed the 2 bits lightly ..lined them up with the pin... And soldered using the silver solder from the hardware store,don,t use ordinary lead solder as it will not work ... Hope this helps you it did work for me regards david from kaniva australia
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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No you're not...
Originally posted by Fenixgoon View PostI did some googling and it looks like there are a few welding shops in the area (recommended for aluminum, even) so I'll give them a call tomorrow. Hopefully the quotes aren't too bad.
This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.
Last edited by rustybronco; 06-16-2009, 08:42 PM.
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I've used JB Weld, works fine if it cures a few days.
Not sure if it's permanent, I don't generally keep bikes that long.
Used mechanical repairs, brass tubing, etc, they are permanent.
Ran with one float post, as long as the remaining post has a tight fit that has been fine as well.
Lots of choices.
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redhotspike
Had to laugh - we're in the same boat:
The same thing happened to my #3 not an hour ago...
I'm sensing a trend.
Thanks for the suggestions
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Fenixgoon
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Dan Ruddock
Originally posted by Dan Ruddock View PostI could fix one with por-15 tank sealer and common house hold thread. Dan
http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/
And some of this stuff
http://www.por15.com/METAL-READY/productinfo/MRG/
Follow the directions and glue the post in place with the tank sealer and let dry a few of days. This alone will not be strong enough. The next step is the old concrete and re bar construction method which is where the strength comes from.
Coat the post with sealer and take some the house hold sewing thread and start wrapping it around the glued post but not too thick because the tank sealer must soak into the thread and maybe coat and add more thread and coat again. Let dry the amount that the por-15 directions say too Don't skimp on this.
When you reassemble the carbs you must have the mushroom end of the pin on the unbroken side. Unlike epoxy the por-15 will not be affected by the gas. Dan
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Originally posted by Fenixgoon View PostRusty, any chance you can post some sort of guide for what you did?
it's pretty simple, you drill a vertical hole in both pieces (1/16" ?), chuck some brass rod in a drill motor and "turn" it down with a file until the rod is slightly larger than the holes drilled into the broken halves of the post. measure the depth of both holes with a drill bit and cut the "lathed" rod to length.
I'll find another broken carb body and do a write up on it again.
who knows, maybe I'll do like the "mob" and break both its legs.
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Fenixgoon
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostI had all the pictures at one time for the procedure, but blew them away.
it's pretty simple, you drill a vertical hole in both pieces (1/16" ?), chuck some brass rod in a drill motor and "turn" it down with a file until the rod is slightly larger than the holes drilled into the broken halves of the post. measure the depth of both holes with a drill bit and cut the "lathed" rod to length.
I'll find another broken carb body and do a write up on it again.
who knows, maybe I'll do like the "mob" and break both its legs.
Mcmaster Carr sells 0.072" brass rods for $8.50 per pack of 15!
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Originally posted by Fenixgoon View Postany idea how much larger the brass needs to be? i can drill a 1/16" hole (0.0625") and just buy some brass that's slightly larger (0.072")
***edit*** additional thought as per squaredancerlynn1... a brass screw from a hardware store around the same size (.072) cut and use in place of the brass rod.Last edited by rustybronco; 06-17-2009, 03:32 PM.
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