Replacement carb bodies...can they be found, or is it best trying to hunt down an old complete carb?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Rookie makes dumb mistake-kills carb
Collapse
X
-
hakuin
Rookie makes dumb mistake-kills carb
Well, I am taking down the CV carbs for re-build from my '80 GS850, and while whacking the impact driver trying to get the bowl cover screws loose after 29yrs, I sheared off a projecting cast area on the #1 carb (slipped in the vise). It's a shame, as I thought everything was snugged-up well.
Replacement carb bodies...can they be found, or is it best trying to hunt down an old complete carb?
Last edited by Guest; 07-29-2009, 08:32 PM.Tags: None
-
TheCafeKid
-
BassCliff
Hi Mr. hakuin,
In this forum, put a note in the "Parts Wanted" section, check the "Parts for Sale" section. Also check ebay and craigslist for bikes being parted out. Used carb bodies can still be had. Clean 'em, jet 'em, and you're good to go.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Comment
-
TheCafeKid
You will also need to make sure you get the correct body. They arent the same, each one is slightly different and designed to be in its specific place in the rack.
Comment
-
hakuin
-
seuadr
-
SqDancerLynn1
-
I may have a #1. Let me look1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by hakuin View PostI sheared off a projecting cast area on the #1 carb (slipped in the vise). It's a shame, as I thought everything was snugged-up well.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...1/DSCF5912.jpg
Comment
-
sachsaca
There is a product called liquid metal, you mix in a liquid into a heavy paste and scoop out what your gonna use, it is wickedly strong and looks like aluminum when finished. The company "Fastenal" carries it and maybe some others.
Comment
-
hakuin
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostThat is the #1 carb, just leave it alone. that passage is plugged off, just the same as the fuel passage is plugged (not drilled through) on that carb.
As an aside, the second carb's screws came loose w/o any trauma. I appreciate all the helpful suggestions. I may be getting a #1 carb soon, and in the meantime, will try to fix what I broke.
The forumites here are without peer for help and knowedge!
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by hakuin View PostNo, the hole runs into the float bowl. Must be plugged, and if I can get away with a liquid metal compound, I'll probably try that first.
Comment
-
hakuin
I used JB Weld, and so far, so good. I'll know more when it is reassembled and holding fuel in the bowl. It holds water without seepage now, though.
Comment
-
atvpyrofreak
Glad to hear you got it patched up! If your gonna be doing any work on these old UJM's you might wanna pick yourself up a set of JIS Screwdrivers as they are the proper tool to use when removing those suborn old carb screws.
More info here:
Purchase here:
Or here:
Comment
Comment