Bang My Head on the "Spark"

[pdqford]

I ground the neg lead off the volt meter on the frame, and probe each pin on the connector with the positive lead from volt meter, that leads to the harness. O/W and B/Y i think... Ignition key "On", however i dont remember if the kill switch was on or off. I never use it, just use the key.

And with that test as described, i get + volts on each wire, and by that i mean 10+v or more. SO, either a shorted wire, or a faulty ignitor? A bad ignitor could allow voltage on the wire that is supposed to be dead or grounded, correct?

Well, I'm never sure what is refered to as an "ignitor" Is that the signal generator (aka the crank sensor)? Or the ignition box bolted to the side of the battery box?

I'd do as rustybronco suggested and check out the B/Y wire. It goes from the coil connector you have disconnected, down to a four wire connector by the rear brake master cylinder near the ignition box. Disconnect this four wire connector (which will take the ignition box out of the equation but not the signal generator (crank sensor)). Then re-test the two wires up at the coil connector. If you still have power at the B/Y wire, the short to power is someplace between the two connectors. If you no longer have power in the B/Y wire, the ignition box would be suspect.

[rustybronco]

I can take the ignitor apart tonight if it is something that can be repaired?

Repairing the igniter will depend on a few factors.

1) did the printed circuit board receive damage (burnt traces) and can the damage be repaired.
2) are you able to test "or" replace the components, such as the output and driver transistors.
3) are parts available.

If it were me, I'd give a go at repairing it...

Well, I'm never sure what is refered to as an "ignitor" Is that the signal generator (aka the crank sensor)? Or the ignition box bolted to the side of the battery box?

Igniter aka ignition box.

[rustybronco]

The pdf I sent you on repairing Ignitors by Mr. Matchless...

the P/N it details, is the same as yours.