Over this past week I replaced the cylinder head. One of the spark plug holes was stripped. I bought a new(er) head on eBay. The unsteady idle problem I had is now gone (r's would float from 1500-300 at idle, 3000 when pulling in clutch). The o-ring on #3 intake boot was not seated correctly (thanks to my mechanic ).
It starts just fine, idles at 1500 +/- rpm at open choke. Full choke it revs nice and smooth to about 4000-ish rpm.
Here's my problem - As soon as I twist the throttle, even the slightest bit, it bogs out and sometimes stalls (if I hold the throttle open).
While installing the new head -
- I checked the valve/shim clearances according to Clymers and all is good there.
- Valves/springs/tappetts seem to be ok as well.
- Found TDC, set timing as per Clymers (#1 at gasket level, 20 pins between #2 & #3 arrows)
- Replaced head gasket
- Head bolts torqued to 27 ft/lbs as per Clymers
-I did not check compression as I do not have a gauge but it seems to be good.
- Installed four new NGK plugs gapped to .028
- I transferred the intake boots from the old head, got the o-rings correct (each is new this season). I even used permatex when installing boots.
- I adjusted the throttle cable.
- Remonted carbs
- Air side intake boots are new this season as well
- Carbs were cleaned and rebuilt earlier this season
I have some questions -
1) Does this sound like I need to have the carbs sync'd? I know that's always a good thing to do, but does this sound like the most sure fire answer to my problems?
2) Is there a way to recheck the timing without removing the valve cover? Can I use a timing light instead, and if so, what marks do I look at? I made it a point to triple check my work on setting the timing. I even had my step-son check my work. It seems to be right, but you never know. Even off by one link can really louse things up.
I'm open to any and all suggestions or questions, and thanks in advance.
Jim C.
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