Stator replacement help?

[arie]

So after repairing r/r's and various bad connections, it seems that a new stator is in order; its the original so I don't fee so bad...

Can someone step me through the procedure? I am most unsure what to do regarding the gasket - will it release from both sides?

can it be re-used?
should I trace it onto a cereal box and make another?
should i get a new one when ordering the stator?

Thanks

 

[argonsagas]

So after repairing r/r's and various bad connections, it seems that a new stator is in order; its the original so I don't fee so bad...

Can someone step me through the procedure? I am most unsure what to do regarding the gasket - will it release from both sides?

can it be re-used?
should I trace it onto a cereal box and make another?
should i get a new one when ordering the stator?

Thanks

can it be re-used?
Quite often, it can be re-used.

Be sure to clean off all debris carefully, from the engine and the gasket.

should I trace it onto a cereal box and make another?

That works well....be sure you use a sharp knife as part of it will be pretty narrow. You can punch the holes with the cover pressed hard against the cardboard,.

Also note, it is much better to do that before you cut it to shape.

should i get a new one when ordering the stator?
That is entirely up to you.

 

[Steve]

First of all,

BassCliff will be along with his version of that, but in the meantime, bookmark his website. Lots of good info there.

One of the pages on his site is about Stator Replacement. Probably all the info you will need.

Your gasket might release from both sides, but you will be better off with a new one.
Not sure about using a cereal box, unless you are either desparate or cheap.
Gasket material at the auto parts store will work, but OEM gaskets are not that expensive.
BassCliff also has Gasket Templates available on his site.

.

 

[jbs80106]

My experience...

My experience...

having replaced my stator 2x in 4 years.

1) original gasket was so hard and fused to the case it was NOT reuseable. 2nd time I took stator cover off gasket was reusable as it had only been on for maybe 1 year with few miles ridden due to other issues.

2) Before you take off side cover, get some cardboard and draw something that resembles the shape of the cover. Where the screws go matters as they are different lenghts. A template will save you remembering, just poke the screws through the template in the right locations as you remove them.

3) Hardest part will likely be getting the &*$%ing side cover off in the first place. Especially if its never been done. You first need to break free the gasket seal, then keep in mind that it's magnetically attracted to the motor, and lastly, it will only really go on/off straight, can't really get one side free then the other. What seems to work is remove the bolts, wack around it several times with a rubber mallet and pull, then pull....and again. Repeat. Cussing seemed to help mine come off! Some have resorted to using putty knife or similar to help break it free but I was afraid of damaging the metal surfaces. It will come off eventually.

4) Old gasket for me came off in pieces, some stuck to the engine, some to the cover. I had to carefully use razor blade to get most of it off without digging into the metal, then used some fine sand paper to get off most of what was left. I never did get every last bit of it off, but it doesn't leak so....

5) 2nd hardest part for me was getting the old stator removed from the side cover. Mine was held on with slotted head screws and a few of them did strip. One screw in particular would NOT come out, had to visit neighbor and use a torch on it to help break it free. Replace all screws (or atleast the one's that strip with stainless steel hex heads for the next time!).

6) then just put it all back together. Note that gasket may drop from where is should be during reinstall which means pulling stator cover back off against force of magnet. Don' recall which way worked best for me, but I seem to think it was putting the gasket in place on the bike, holding it with one finger in place while trying not to pinch my finger between the metal as the sidecover sucked itself back on....

 

[rustybronco]

it seems that a new stator is in order; its the original so I don't fee so bad...

By a new stator is in order, you do mean that it failed either the resistance or the voltage tests, correct?
how are the connectors between the stator and the R/R/ have they been replaced?

(no need to spend money needlessly)

 

[arie]

Wow,

Thanks for all the replies.

I tested the stator, all leads shorted read no resistance, though it puts out some voltage. ~ 40 v at 5000rpm

an hour ride drops the battery voltage from 12.7 to 12.3 volts over that period

I anticipate the gasket will be tough to remove, as will the screws that hold on the cover, and then wrestling the cover off against the magnet. any suggested cuss words? <ggg>

all the connections between the stator and r/r have been replaced with gold plated clips, and connections have been cleaned with de-oxit. Have replaced several runs of wire too, too internally corroded and warm to the touch.

its a shame that there is no way to fit an alternator to these bikes; having a generator sucks.

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. arie,

As Mr. Steve mentioned, you'll find lots of GS lovin' on my website. Let me give you a big "HOoooowwDY!"

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[rustybronco]

its a shame that there is no way to fit an alternator to these bikes; having a generator sucks.

It has an alternator.

looks like you have it all handled!

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Wow,

Thanks for all the replies.

I tested the stator, all leads shorted read no resistance, though it puts out some voltage. ~ 40 v at 5000rpm

an hour ride drops the battery voltage from 12.7 to 12.3 volts over that period

I anticipate the gasket will be tough to remove, as will the screws that hold on the cover, and then wrestling the cover off against the magnet. any suggested cuss words? <ggg>

all the connections between the stator and r/r have been replaced with gold plated clips, and connections have been cleaned with de-oxit. Have replaced several runs of wire too, too internally corroded and warm to the touch.

its a shame that there is no way to fit an alternator to these bikes; having a generator sucks.

Shorted to what? the three wires should have NO reading to ground, They should read 1-2 ohms between pairs of wires. Check the stator pages !!!! for the correct proceedures

 

[duaneage]

Here is a scan of a stator gasket for a gs650G like yours. Print and tape to gasket paper bought at an auto parts store, Get the 1/32 inch stuff for gas and oil. Trace or cut along the lines, punch the holes out with a 1/4" hole punch and you have a gasket.

Total cost about 6 dollars and you have enough for 2 more gaskets.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu360/duaneage2/Stator.jpg

 

[arie]

Thanks for the scan of the gasket, but I am unsure how to print it to scale.

when I tried just sending it to the printer, it was larger than the page size

?

what did I do wrong?

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

When you print the file, make sure your printer driver is set to "print actual size" and NOT "fit to page" or "scale to fit".

Save the file to your hard drive. Open the file with a picture editor (I like Irfanview). Then choose 'File' and 'Print'. Click the 'print settings' or 'advanced' button so that you can check the layout and printing preferences before you print.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[duaneage]

It's definitely smaller than 8.5 by 11 so it should fit. Don't open with IE or it will not print right. Imaging or Paint are better programs as are a few others.

 

[arie]

Well, Thought I would update all you fine folks as to my progress.
nope, still not done... might get the bike on the road in time for the first snow <ggg>

went to Autozone and purchased an "impact driver" for all of $10 that looks like the one in the image from BassCliff. Used the smaller of the two cross bits, and it broke; the larger one was a better fit { though looked too large} and finished the job. groan

having removed all the screws, set upon wacking like crazy to free the cover, the rubber mallet having no effect. Finally I hit the mallet with a heavy hammer and that dislodged the cover

tried to remove 'starter motor' cover, and the left side two 8mm bolts came out with ease; the last one was a B!t@&!!! how the heck have you all gotten that last bolt off? I used a 8mm spanner / box end with almost no room to maneuver my fingers! I ended up loosly attaching a screwdriver tip to the end of the wrench with wire to be able to move it without cramming my hand into the small space - sheesh!!

and thats where I am, I have to remover and install the new stator, cut the gasket from the material { Autozone had 1/32 oil and gas "rubberized" gasket } install all.

Q: There is some mention of replacing the screws with allen bolts - where to find them?

also, is there a torque spec for tightening the screws when replacing the cover?

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. arie,

The hex bolt kit can be had at Z1 Enterprises and other places like ebay stores. Perhaps ... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1137

I'm not looking at your manual but I seem to recall 7 ft.lbs. would be good for those case bolts. Check the manual to be sure. I use a thread sealer too (NOT a thread locker).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[arie]

update-

With much effort, several razor blades, gasket remover, and scotch-brite pads, I have removed the remnants of the original gasket. busy work, my favorite! {not!}

For reasons unclear to me, I could not get the image of the gasket to scale correctly, { hp printer?} so I scanned the stator cover and that will be what I use to cut mt gasket.

I will try West marine for replacement screws- allens if they have them. Do not want to spend $22 plus as I only want these 7 of the bunch offered in the package by Z1.

Basscliff, tell me - what is the difference between thead sealer and thread locker?

I will be completing this by the end of the week barring more distractions.

 

[Guest]

Here is a list of machines that you can buy used stators from
Part 21584 fits the following machines:
1983 Suzuki GR650 Tempter
1982 Suzuki GS1000S Katana
1983 Suzuki GS1100ES
1983 Suzuki GS1100S Katana
1983 Suzuki GS450E
1982 Suzuki GS450GA
1983 Suzuki GS450GA
1985 Suzuki GS450GA
1980 Suzuki GS550E
1980 Suzuki GS550L
1981 Suzuki GS550L
1982 Suzuki GS550L
1982 Suzuki GS550M Katana
1981 Suzuki GS550T
1981 Suzuki GS650E
1982 Suzuki GS650E
1981 Suzuki GS650G
1982 Suzuki GS650G
1983 Suzuki GS650G
1981 Suzuki GS650GL
1982 Suzuki GS650GL
1983 Suzuki GS650GL
1983 Suzuki GS650M Katana
1980 Suzuki GS750E
1981 Suzuki GS750E
1982 Suzuki GS750E
1980 Suzuki GS750L
1981 Suzuki GS750L
1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
1982 Suzuki GS750T
1983 Suzuki GS750T
1979 Suzuki GS850G
1980 Suzuki GS850G
1981 Suzuki GS850G
1980 Suzuki GS850GL
1981 Suzuki GS850GL

 

[BassCliff]

Basscliff, tell me - what is the difference between thead sealer and thread locker?

Hi,

Thread locker is like glue that holds the bolt hard in the hole. Depending on what color you use (red, blue, purple) you may need an impact driver and/or heat to take the bolt out again.

Thread sealer is a very light duty adhesive that basically stops anything from leaking along the threads of the bolt. But it works good for those bolts that don't require a lot of torque and keeps them from loosening up due to vibration. I also use it on my valve cover bolts because they use so little torque due to my Real Gasket.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[LarryA_Texas]

stator wires

stator wires

Before spending $100 on a new stator take a look at the wires.

Maybe someone here has a better suggestion, but there are three wires that are attached to the winding, and if they are burned through and shorting out against the engine case you have a very inexpensive fix if you can replace the wires. I've done it with success. Now sure about longevity, but it worked.

 

[arie]

13.9 is my new favorite number!!

The gasket came out ok, and I even punched the holes in the right place, which worried me since a slight deviation might have lead to headaches.

I went to West Marine, who usually have a great supply of all sorts of hardware, and they did not have the Allen head bolts to replace the Phillips screws for the cover. I then went to Ace hardware, and they did have them in all 3 sizes necessary for this cover.

I installed the Electrosport Industries Stator, and discovered that they provide shorter leads than stock. the gauge appeared to be better though ca. 16 vs 18 stock?? I soldered 14 gauge extensions and gold-plated spade clips for the reg/rec.

Paint thinner and scotch-brite pads removed the remnants of the gasket much easier than using a razor blade fwiw.

Inside the case, after cleaning, I routed the wire through the guides and applied thread ~locker~ inside the case. For the Allen bolts, I used thread sealer { actually "form a seal" } and not thread locker.

BassCliff, on your webpage, you mention using thread locker, and in this thread you suggested thread sealer. ok, so you confused me a little, but I figured it out and still appreciate the help <ggg>

The third starter motor cover bolt was by far the most difficult part of the process, but after that was set, and the gas tank put on, the baby fired up beautifully!

I went over the bike, and then took her for a spin. Wow! 12.8 at idle and 13.9 no matter the speed. { ok, so I may have re-interpreted the speed "limit" <g> }

But finally, a long over-due repair. Phew!

and Larry - you may have been right, because the stator was putting out very nominal voltage, but I did not feel up to tracking it down. Weird really - just slightly less than the bike was consuming, so I was able to ride for ca. 1 hr before the battery was starting to drain, but more than if I disconnected the stator and ran off the battery alone.

... now if only there was a way to repair the worm gear for the speedo....