1977 Suzuki GS750 - Is this a good buy for an everyday communter?

[nanoluxx]

Trying to buy something in a hurry, but don't want to buy anything unreliable. Need to drive to class everyday.. which is about 5-8 miles. I'm going to go look at it in the next couple of days. Is there anything specific for this model I should look for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190346270180

Any info would be helpful.

Thanks,
jayson-

[doctorgonzo]

Appearance is REALLY clean. That's on the medium high (in my opinion) side price wise. Not a steal, but not over priced either (considering apparent condition).

Take a voltmeter with you and check the voltage at the battery with the bike running. Is it 13 or so at idle? Does it go up to 14 or so when you rev it? The charging systems are a notorious fault on these.

Other obvious stuff, scrapes on the cases (sign it's been down), oil leaks, etc...

Sure others will chime on with many others.

If it's solid mechanically, no problem being a daily commuter at all. Plenty of power for the highway, and probably decent mileage.

Edit:

I just saw "reserve not met"..

Again "In my opinion" (for what it's worth) I'd have a hard time paying more than $1500 for a 750, it would have to be as clean as that one appears to be, and rock solid mechanically. To pay $2000 it would need to look like it just rolled off the showroom floor.

Others may disagree.

[almarconi]

Are you a good mechanic?

The bike is still 32 years old and will require alot more maintenance than a newer bike. Pretty much everything that is rubber will need to be replaced if it hasn't been already.

How much money are you looking to spend? If all you want to do is commute, a newer scooter might be a better choice.

[gsgeezer]

Kind of hard to tell by looking at a two dimensional picture of a shined up bike.

I normally would only buy a bike off ebay, or anywhere else, if I could go look at it or have someone qualified evaluate it for me.

Here is a wiki about buying used motorcycles, in general:

Decide what type of riding you will be doing most often: commuting, sports, touring, or a combination. This is the most important criterion you need to consider. Be honest with yourself on this one. A 1000 cc superbike might make your heart skip a beat, but there is a very good chance that you will hate it on the commute, and that your pillion will be uncomfortable on it. Track-days on a cruiser may also be disappointing.
Buy from a reputable dealership if possible. Private sales may be lower priced, but you will not have any comeback if the bike breaks down or blows up. Most dealerships offer some type of warranty, or at the very least, will work with you should anything go wrong in the first few months of buying. If you must buy from a private party, insist that you be able to take the bike to a reputable dealership to be assessed and inspected. A few dollars spent now could save you heaps of money and trouble in the future. In addition, dealerships can do an ownership history search for you to make sure the bike in question wasn't stolen and hasn't been listed as "written off" by an insurance company.
Check the bike out for yourself. Take some simple hand tools with you, including a flashlight and, if possible, a multimeter.

Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾" of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn't be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down. Chains wear out over time, but sprockets should last much longer. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule.
The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. Daily drivers' tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who've raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread.
Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim
Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 'notchy-ness' or roughness in the steering head.
If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.
While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a 'dodgy' voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery. Replace the seat.
Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter).
Inspect under fairings (if the motorcycle has fairings). Remove the same fairing the owner removes to change spark plugs and do routine maintenance. Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.
Look at the brake fluid level. This is usually on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.
Take a test drive.

Pick a nice day with dry roads and good visibility if possible. Bring your bike license and proper gear if you have it. Most dealers will have loaner gear available for you to use. If at a dealer, be prepared to sign an insurance waiver; if privately, be ready to leave your license with the seller as security.
Pick a route that you are familiar with that has light traffic and good road conditions if possible. Start slowly and get used to the way the bike feels and responds.
Test the brakes. They should not 'pulse'. That is a sign of warped disks. They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel spongy.
Accelerate through the gears. The transmission should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel 'clunky'.
While on a straight, clean patch of road, weave left and right slightly to see how the bike responds. It should feel stable and easy to correct.
Listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations. Ask questions about anything you have doubts about.
Inspect the bike again after the ride, looking for any leaks or drips. Check the oil, through either the sight glass or; when the engine cools, the dipstick if so equipped. Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles. That is completely normal.
Request a service history. It is always a good thing to have, but for several reasons, they may not be available. Ask for an owner's manual and factory toolkit if available.
Be realistic when negotiating on the final price of the bike. For a private seller, this may be his baby and insulting him now will ensure that you will not get a fair price. If at a dealership, realize that the salesperson may have targets to meet and a boss looking over his shoulder. Do some research online; use the retail pricing guides if available, or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike. Then, set your buy price accordingly.

[gsgeezer]

For the above wiki, I typed "how to buy a used motorcycle" into google:

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS291US303&aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=%22how+to+buy+a+used+motorcycle%22

[nanoluxx]

I have unsuccessfully attempted to restore a 83' GS850... I did it mostly as a fun educational project to learn about moters but in the end could not get it running... but now I understand how they work. I have no experience with the block it self but everything else on the bike I think I can handle. Not to mention I'm pretty handy. so if its running now, and something goes bad, I can most likely can figure out how to fix it.

My 83' GS850, I bought it not running ($300). By the end I could get it to start but couldn't get it to stay idle when I reduced the choke or throttle it. Everyone I ask is out of idea's and I've run out of time to work on it.. so I'm just looking for something running.

[Nessism]

Are you a good mechanic?

The bike is still 32 years old and will require alot more maintenance than a newer bike. Pretty much everything that is rubber will need to be replaced if it hasn't been already.

How much money are you looking to spend? If all you want to do is commute, a newer scooter might be a better choice.

This is my thought as well. Get something newer unless you enjoy working on bikes (like I do).

[doctorgonzo]

I have unsuccessfully attempted to restore a 83' GS850... I did it mostly as a fun educational project to learn about moters but in the end could not get it running... but now I understand how they work. I have no experience with the block it self but everything else on the bike I think I can handle. Not to mention I'm pretty handy. so if its running now, and something goes bad, I can most likely can figure out how to fix it.

My 83' GS850, I bought it not running ($300). By the end I could get it to start but couldn't get it to stay idle when I reduced the choke or throttle it. Everyone I ask is out of idea's and I've run out of time to work on it.. so I'm just looking for something running.

How big a hurry are you in because with a little time and a $1000 you could do a LOT to that 850.
99.9999999999% chance the 850 is dirty carbs or an air leak.

[nanoluxx]

I need something drivable in 2 weeks.

I'm sure the carbs are clean... via all the carb cleaning tips found on this site... and I can't find an air leak. I've replaced the rubber boots and o-rings... cleaned and re-mounted the air filter. Not sure how to check the headers for a leak..

I've trouble shot that bike on these forums with no luck... and I don't want to put any more money into it.

[doctorgonzo]

Well that 750 looks like a nice bike, but as was said, hard to tell from a pic. If it IS as clean as it looks, and you check out all the things gsgeezer posted, make him an offer, but again, IMO to be worth more than $1500 you need to think it just came off the showroom floor. even then, as was also stated, rubber bits, etc... fail, just from age, so there will be little things that need fixed.

[rustybronco]

I need something drivable in 2 weeks.

I'm sure the carbs are clean... via all the carb cleaning tips found on this site... and I can't find an air leak. I've replaced the rubber boots and o-rings... cleaned and re-mounted the air filter. Not sure how to check the headers for a leak..

I've trouble shot that bike on these forums with no luck... and I don't want to put any more money into it.

But what condition are the air box seals in?

[Octain]

I have unsuccessfully attempted to restore a 83' GS850... I did it mostly as a fun educational project to learn about moters but in the end could not get it running... but now I understand how they work. I have no experience with the block it self but everything else on the bike I think I can handle. Not to mention I'm pretty handy. so if its running now, and something goes bad, I can most likely can figure out how to fix it.

My 83' GS850, I bought it not running ($300). By the end I could get it to start but couldn't get it to stay idle when I reduced the choke or throttle it. Everyone I ask is out of idea's and I've run out of time to work on it.. so I'm just looking for something running.

Wanna sell it??

[bwringer]

I need something drivable in 2 weeks.

Then go to your local Toyota dealer and sign the funny pieces of paper he puts in front of you until he hands you the keys to a vehicle that runs and will continue to do so for quite some time.

Also keep in mind that you can get ANYTHING you might need for a Toyota the same day in a city, overnight out in the sticks. With a 30 year old bike, you WILL find yourself waiting a minimum of two weeks for most parts. If the parts are available. Otherwise, good luck on fleaBay.

Get what I'm saying here? Much as we love them, vintage bikes are simply not realistic as your only transportation, especially if your mechanical skills and resources aren't sharp.

I've used two vintage bikes as primary transportation for a couple of years, and keeping at least one running at all times has been an expensive pain in the ass -- and I'm very experienced at GS mechanicking, with a huge store of spare parts squirreled away, drawers full of special tools, a complete set of valve shims, a well-equipped garage, the works.

If you're determined to have a low-budget two-wheeler as your only vehicle, get a late model or new Japanese or Taiwanese scooter. Or a bicycle.

Even the nastiest busted-down student-grade Chevy is going to work better simply because you can get the parts anywhere.

[bwringer]

As to the bike, it's obvious the carb boots have not been replaced (oxidized phillips head screws still in place, traces of blowby around the boots).

None of the other stuff that needs to be done with a "new" vintage bike has been done, either. And the tires are very cheap and quite elderly.

So what we have here is a very nice vintage bike, possibly a nice buy at around $1,250 - $1,500, but maybe a bit less due to oxidation and fading.

But it's a starting point -- it's not transportation yet. You'll need around $600 - $1,000 in parts to turn it into a safe vehicle to go places on.

Collecting the parts and doing the mechanical work will take four to six weeks of pummeling your Visa card and spending quite a bit of time in your well-equipped garage next to the row of other vintage Suzukis you have restored. If there are any parts of the work you don't understand or need help with, multiply that amount of time considerably.

This classic bike is well worth the money and time spent restoring and updating. But it's going to take time, money, experience, facilities, and patience.

[TheCafeKid]

Wanna sell it??

You vulture!