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Most wires are 18 guage
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1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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This link courtesy of my friend Mr. Matchless.
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+1 for wiring Stator straight to the RR annoying to disconnect but very good... and I use spade connectors over bullets anyday when replacing connections
Subject is spelled wrong too btw
spelled 'wiring'
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Agreed,Originally posted by Redman View Post
Virtually 99% of the harness wire guage is adequate for the currents carried. The only area of concern is that the wire size of the R/R (+) and (-) are a bit small for all the current they carry. Since the R/R (+) splits very quickly and goes to the fuze block bus after entering the harness this is not as big a deal.
On the R/R (-) side depending upon how it is connected to harness, battery and Frame can current share and avoid any issues.
Making an entire harness out of 14 guage v.s. 18 guage (Bill ?) wire for example would be a great wast of time for no reason.
A new OEM harness with properly prepared connectors and a proper single point grounding scheme is all that is required. (I'm sure I have cover this before)Comment
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