Couple of dumb questions, see inside for stupidity! :)

[Fenixgoon]

1) I will need to clean my carbs (done before). What exactly do I do with a tub of carb dip when I'm done with it?

2) Is silicone RTV ok for sealing up connections (airbox, airbox-> carbs, etc.)?

3) What is the best way to see if a spark plug is firing? I'm guessing you can't just pull it out and take a look while it's connected.


Thanks as always, GSR!

[Agemax]

1. drink it
2.yes
3.put it in your mouth and spin engine over. you will soon know if it is firing!

[Dave8338]

1) I will need to clean my carbs (done before). What exactly do I do with a tub of carb dip when I'm done with it?

2) Is silicone RTV ok for sealing up connections (airbox, airbox-> carbs, etc.)?

3) What is the best way to see if a spark plug is firing? I'm guessing you can't just pull it out and take a look while it's connected.


Thanks as always, GSR!

1. put the cover on it and save it for the next dip.
2. yes.
3. pull the plug out (connected) and crank the bike over with the ignition on and the kill switch on.

Yeah...questions are questionable.

[mike_of_bbg]

3. pull the plug out (connected) and crank the bike over with the ignition on and the kill switch on.

Ummmm, let's try this:

1. Pull the wire from the plug.
2. Remove the plug.
3. Re-connect the spark plug wire.
4. Lay the (connected) spark plug on the head.
5. Watch the gap as you crank it over.

No, you can't just hold the connected plug out in mid-air The outside of the plug must be grounded. Electricity needs a source and a destination to flow.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I like my carb dip with a little vermouth.

But seriously, just save the dip for next time. Using sealer for cracks in the airbox is OK. I suppose it would work OK on other areas of the intake system but I think using new parts (boots, clamps, O-rings, etc) is a better way to go.

To see the spark, remove the plug, connect it to the wire, lay the plug on the head (to ground it), hit the starter.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Agemax]

Hi,

I like my carb dip with a little vermouth.

But seriously, just save the dip for next time. Using sealer for cracks in the airbox is OK. I suppose it would work OK on other areas of the intake system but I think using new parts (boots, clamps, O-rings, etc) is a better way to go.

To see the spark, remove the plug, connect it to the wire, lay the plug on the head(to ground it), hit the starter.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

putting it in your mouth is more fun, just make sure you hold your wifes hand when she is touching your engine

[Redman]

1) Carb Dip: No comment.

2) Intake sealing: Yes can use silcon sealant/caulk. BUt maybe be a problem when try to take a part again. For the carb boots to the head seal there is an oring that can be replaced (mine were so hard they broke into pieces). For the air box covers I used some adhesive backed weather stripping.

3) Check spark: Like others said, but I will stress, yes can take out plug from head but needs to have the base of the plug touching the head. Usally just laying it on the head somewhere works while plugged into the spark plug wire.

.

[Steve]

1) Not sure what you are calling a "tub" of dip, most of us get it in a can. Put the lid on tightly, save it for next time. I have had a can of "dip" for about five years. Still works well, but it's down to about half a can now, so I just recently got another can. Now I can use the older can for really dirty stuff and save the new can for stuff that's not so grungy.

2) I am a bit hesitant to use silicone as a sealer on a vehicle. I know many have done it, I just prefer not to use it on my vehicles. Especially not good to use in areas with constant exposure to gasoline. Upstream of the carbs (airbox), it might be OK, but I would still rather use new parts for a better seal or adhesive weatherstipping.

3) As others have mentioned, and Redman and BassCliff have specified, remove the plug, put the wire back on it, lay the plug on the engine, hit the starter. You should see a nice spark. If you are just checking to see if the coil is firing, just pull the wire and insert a spare plug, no need to actually remove your plug from the engine.

.

[sschering]

Carb Dip.. put the lid on tight and save it for the next project.

It good for cleaning way more than carbs.. Nuts, bolts, brake calipers, master cylinders.. Anything metal can go in the dip and come out shiny clean.

If I could get my fork lowers in the dip can I would

[79FiveFifty]

1) What exactly do I do with a tub of carb dip when I'm done with it?

Save it, they come in a 1 gallon paint bucket and usually include a dipping basket too. The inside of carburetors is usually a lot cleaner than some people anticipate. It takes very little varnish or fuel contaminants to jam up the needle thin passages in the carburetor. Your carb dip will probably go from the color of fresh motor oil, to the color of some tea (still useful for MANY many more occasions. Anything from greasy bolts to other parts that fit in the can. Afterall - it is only parts cleaner in a can.

2) Is silicone RTV ok for sealing up connections (airbox, airbox-> carbs, etc.)?

Be sure to clean out your airbox / boot box thoroughly if you plan to seal the 4 boots on the air box side with RTV. It will seal up just fine, and is a cost effective way (in my opinion) to prevent leaks from boots that have aged nicely and fit relatively well still but just need that extra "seal." If you need to seal your air filter box lid, go to home-depot or lowes and buy some ¾" rubberized weather stripping.. use a product like goo-gone to remove the remnants of the old adhesive backing from the OEM foam seal and proceed to lay down your new stripping. Use your razor blade to cut out exactly what you don't need and you'll have a perfect sealing lid.

3) What is the best way to see if a spark plug is firing? I'm guessing you can't just pull it out and take a look while it's connected.

To avoid any accidental injury, there is actually a tool in the shape of a pen which you can buy form your local tool dealer which has a groove cut at one side, and a small gap to bridge in a glass viewpiece on the other end. When you touch the grooved end to your spark plug wire, the spark jumps the gap inside the glass and you can see exactly how your spark plug is firing / if it is at all. (Given you have fresh spark plugs that are known to be in good working order.)

[C.V.]

I wont re-re-re-re repeat all of that...

but I will add, when your checking your spark, keep the plug away from the open spark hole (or cover it)... don't want to ignite any of that unburned fuel getting pushed out the hole...

[rustybronco]

but I will add, when your checking your spark, keep the plug away from the open spark hole (or cover it)... don't want to ignite any of that unburned fuel getting pushed out the hole...

See option #?... spare spark plug inserted into plug wire.

[Dave8338]

Ummmm, let's try this:

1. Pull the wire from the plug.
2. Remove the plug.
3. Re-connect the spark plug wire.
4. Lay the (connected) spark plug on the head.
5. Watch the gap as you crank it over.

No, you can't just hold the connected plug out in mid-air The outside of the plug must be grounded. Electricity needs a source and a destination to flow.

This isn't my first day at the office.

YES the plug has to be grounded to the head or any other bike grounding point, for that matter. If in fact I thought that this particular piece of info was in question, I would have included it.

[bwringer]

Silicone sealer (RTV) won't work at all on carb-to-engine intake boots -- it dissolves very quickly in the heated gasoline vapor environment.

It will work marginally well elsewhere in the intake system, but even back in the airbox, it will start to deteriorate after a season from the gasoline vapors.

[BassCliff]

putting it in your mouth is more fun, just make sure you hold your wifes hand when she is touching your engine

My wife's eyes really *sparkle* when we hold hands this way.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff