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    oil pressure light flickering at idle

    Its a 1981 gs850 that has been over... in km (high milage)
    with a lockhart cooler.

    I just found the wire that was off the sender the other day and pluged it back then started the bike and noticed the light.If I rev it up it goes out.I had I good idea or so it seemed at the time (clamp the line feeding the oil cooler)Bad idea the braided line burst. Oil all over the shop and on my 1972 gmc that I am trying to restore (but somehow boats and now bikes are more interesting then sanding bondo and primer)

    So my question is.......

    Is the lockhart cooler flowing too much oil and the light is on?
    I now know I have pressure in that line but is it just going to the crankcase and not flowing to the head?
    How do I check for oil flow to the head with out takeing the valve cover off?

    James

    And yes I used the search function

    #2
    If you blew the line out and it squirted oil I don't think oil pressure is a problem.
    Take off the oil sensor and clean the spring and plunger.
    Where is the oil cooler tapped?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      oily mess in garage

      The lines r tapped right under the carbs

      James

      Comment


        #4
        I agree, it's more likely the switch is gummed up
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          The Suzi oil light will flicker on and off if the "O-ring" in the sump has been displaced from its position. Have you had the sump off? If not sometimes the "O-ring" becomes compressed with age and can move from it normal position.

          I have been through this exact problem recently and thought I was up for a new oil pump. Dropped the sump and sure enough the "O-ring was sitting in the sump tray and not on its post, new "O-ring" and now oil light problem is gone, cheers.
          Badgezz, we don need noh stinkin' badgezz!
          Shin-Ken 1074
          1982 GSX1100SXZ Wire Wheel Katana - BOM Nov 2011
          1981 GSX1135 Katana Build completed Mar 2024, Curb Weight, all fluids and 21 lt fuel = 206 kg.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Shin-Ken 1074 View Post
            The Suzi oil light will flicker on and off if the "O-ring" in the sump has been displaced from its position. Have you had the sump off? If not sometimes the "O-ring" becomes compressed with age and can move from it normal position.

            I have been through this exact problem recently and thought I was up for a new oil pump. Dropped the sump and sure enough the "O-ring was sitting in the sump tray and not on its post, new "O-ring" and now oil light problem is gone, cheers.
            That's scary!!!
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7


              the top picture is of a Kerker oil cooler adapter. it uses a rubber "cup shaped" seal which slips over the small nipple on the lower portion (engine side) of the oil cooler adapter. that seal is intended to seal the adapter to the oil supply port in the engine, ensuring the oil flow does not divert the switch. if the "cup seal" is missing, oil flow will bypass the switch and your oil light will flicker. you will still have the correct oil pressure (flow), but with it bypassing the switch you won't have enough to keep the switch from grounding out and turning the light on.

              you will need to remove the adapter to measure the depth of the hole and the length of the nipple. if there is any gap (1/16-1/8" ?) your going to have to make up a new seal.
              Last edited by rustybronco; 01-05-2010, 10:06 AM.
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

              Comment


                #8
                Good thing that line burst, clamping off that line will starve both the top end and transmission of oil.

                Dale has this one covered; most likely you are not getting a good seal down over the oil port. If the rubber seal is deterioriated, you can make one from a dowty seal (steel washer with rubber O-ring captured at the ID). I picked one up at the local auto parts store and it fit perfectly over the oil port after some flats were ground in the washer to match the shape of the oil distribution cavity in the engine. The dowty seal was captured nicely in the cavity so it can't get away and the oil cooler adapter came down and caped it off nicely.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  removed adapter plate today

                  So I removed the adapter plate tonight and the seal is deformed and as hard as plastic.So oil is defintaly getting around it.I like the idea of the dowty seal but what size and how do yoou keep it from not being centered in the bore the old seal has a step in it to keep it centered.Do you have a part number?I found a valve stem seal in my garage but I don't think it would stand up to the oil.Are Dowty seals oil resistant?

                  Thanks for all your help but I think I need lots more

                  James

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The dowty seal I used was found at a local auto parts store in the drain plug area so it should be fine living in oil (valve stem seals will live in oil too).
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Its a tire valve stem seal so i have no idea.But I woundn't trust it

                      James

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        The dowty seal I used was found at a local auto parts store in the drain plug area so it should be fine living in oil (valve stem seals will live in oil too).
                        Now I know what to use to stop my oil cooler Banjo bolts from leaking .
                        14mm looks like it 9/16 dowty seal will work just sweet




                        40-178109ERLEarl's 9/16" Dowty Seal (QTY 2) Fits -6 AN Fitting
                        $7.69

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Its fixed

                          I used a dowty seal thats is made for a gm drain plug.Now the oil light is off when the bike is running.

                          Thank you guys are a big help.

                          James

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