I'm not even sure what shape the rubber piece is or how it fits on the valve guide. Any tips?
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Removing valve oil seals
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Audioslave784
Removing valve oil seals
I'm doing my first engine rebuild, and I'm trying to replace my valve oil seals. Problem is, I can't seem to get the old ones off. I tried pulling with needle nose pliers and picking at it with, well, a pick, but the old rubber is too fragile to do anything with. I also tried heating it a little with a butane lighter (ghetto, I know), which only seemed to make the rubber more brittle. The only solution I can think of is to scrape the old ones off piece by piece.
I'm not even sure what shape the rubber piece is or how it fits on the valve guide. Any tips?
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The seal is held in place by a small sprung wire wrapped around the seal. I grabbed it with needle nose pliers and "twisted" it while I pulled. It should come right off with a little pulling force. The sprung wire seats over the nipple of the guide.
Try twisting it as you pull. It'll come off.
EDIT:: Here's my thread from when I did the 750. Doesn't show the seals very well though....
Last edited by Larry D; 02-16-2010, 03:29 PM.Larry D
1980 GS450S
1981 GS450S
2003 Heritage Softtail
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mike_of_bbg
Yeah, you're not going to get them off by the rubber. Most of mine came off with a strong grab and a little rocking with slip-joint pliers to the metal. I used a paint can opener (the kind you can get at lowes or home depot for free) to pull the stubborn ones from the outside a bit. Use care not to nick the bucket surfaces. Scratching the outside of the valve guide isn't going to bother anything.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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I've heard of ham fisted people snapping off the guide when trying to remove the seal. Please be careful.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Some of these can be a bit stubborn while others pop off easily. for the stubborn ones try grapping with a pair of pliers and twisting the seal round and round and back etc. Once you've moved it then gently rock backwards and forwards, continuing to twist, whilst pulling. Don't rock too hard or you could snap the guide.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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I bought a large, cheap pair of needlenose pliers, then undercut the tips with a Dremel tool to better grab those seals.
Works great!1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
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Audioslave784
Cool, I just got my first two off using some needle-nose pliers. I thought at first the seals were all rubber, and I was being careful not to mess up the metal underneath. But now I see how the seals consist mostly of the metal base that you can grab onto.
I could have saved myself some trouble by looking at a picture.
The warnings about breaking a valve stem are good. A couple of times I caught myself wiggling them around on the top of the valve guide with a lot of force and had to stop myself and slow things down.
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I picked up a set of tools from Harbor Freight that had several different picks and small spatulas. One of the picks is shaped like a hook, and it workd great to get under the edge of the valve seal and just behind the spring to pop it off.JP
1982 GS1100EZ (awaiting resurrection)
1992 Concours
2001 GS500 (Dad's old bike)
2007 FJR
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Footy.
In the trade we use specialy designed grips made for the job. These are like an extended plier with half cups on each leg with serations to grip the seals.
The trick is always to get the old seals turning easily first, then pull and twist.
Footy.
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