GS1000G Ignition coils

[Sudds]

As I remember it was 1 and 4 that showed infinite resistence. And yes the plug wires are connected directly until I can get new plug caps.

Suddw

[rustybronco]

Do you recall what value the others registered?

[Sudds]

No, but they were not the same. I will check when I get back to the shop.

But I'm still having a problem that the shop manual calls for 31,000 t0 33,000 ohms and I only read 11.000. Now that reading is without the resistance pllug caps installed. I removed them sometime ago.


Sudds

[Sudds]

The spark plug caps you asked about had about 11 to 12 ohms resistance.

Sudds

[rustybronco]

A little high... but it will run on the no's 2 & 3 cylinders like that.

1 & 4 with the plug caps reading open... nada...

***edit*** Have you torn down the carbs yet?

[Sudds]

Plugs 1 and 4 were functional under the condition of the resistance cap showing open. The spark would jump around the resistor in the cap.

There is nothing wrong with the carbs and I do not intend to do a complete tear down. I don't need to creat any new problem. I did remove all the jets that could be removed and all were completely clean and looked like new. The air screw needle valve cannot be removed and is set at the factory. And all passageways were clear. There is nothng wrong with the carbs.

After reinstalling the carbs I rechecked the coils and got the same resistance values. Tried to start and nothing. Checked the number 4 plug cap and there was no spark. There was spark on 2 and 3. Checked the voltage to the coils and with a battery votage of 12 volts the voltage to 2 and 3 coil read 10.3 volts. The voltage to the other coil for 1 and 4 read zero. I really didn't do any thing else to the system. A little while later I tried to start and it roared to life. Let it run for a while and shut down. With the battery voltage at 12.82 both of the coils were now receiving 11.4 volts. I adjusted the idle rpm and have been riding it ever since. The carbs are working fine. And the bike has started very easy and run great for several days. Go figure.

[chef1366]

Are the carbs OK?

[Steve]

There is nothing wrong with the carbs and I do not intend to do a complete tear down. I don't need to creat any new problem. I did remove all the jets that could be removed and all were completely clean and looked like new. The air screw needle valve cannot be removed and is set at the factory. And all passageways were clear. There is nothng wrong with the carbs.

Hopefully this does not come back to bite you.

"I did remove all the jets that could be removed", then "the air screw needle valve cannot be removed".
It's not really an "air screw", although many people call it that. And, not only is it removeable, it's highly recommended that you DO remove it so you can fully clean the passage behind it and change the o-ring that seals it. After that, you can set it where it SHOULD be set, not where some government weenie wanted it. Besides, most of the problems that are attributed to the carbs are not in the removeable jets, they are in the passages that feed the jets. You can't see through those passages, you can't even poke a wire through them. You HAVE to dip the carbs and let them soak for a while. How long will depend on how badly they are plugged, but the time ranges from several hours to a full day. Then put them back together with a new set of o-rings from cycleorings.com.

On the other hand, if this bike has been ridden regularly enough that it keeps getting fresh gas, there might not be a problem with the carbs, but I would still remove the "idle mixture adjustment screws", replace their o-rings and set them correctly (usually between 2 and 3 turns out from lightly-seated).

.

[BassCliff]

There is nothing wrong with the carbs and I do not intend to do a complete tear down. I don't need to creat any new problem. I did remove all the jets that could be removed and all were completely clean and looked like new. The air screw needle valve cannot be removed and is set at the factory. And all passageways were clear. There is nothng wrong with the carbs.

Hi,

At least feed them a few good doses of Sea Foam. If there are internal deposits, Sea Foam could help a lot. I use it regularly just for maintenance. We are kind of anal about our carburetors around here. The cleaner the better.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[rustybronco]

Checked the voltage to the coils and with a battery votage of 12 volts the voltage to 2 and 3 coil read 10.3 volts. The voltage to the other coil for 1 and 4 read zero. I really didn't do any thing else to the system. A little while later I tried to start and it roared to life. Let it run for a while and shut down. With the battery voltage at 12.82 both of the coils were now receiving 11.4 volts.

You would be better off finding out why those voltages are changing. I'd do it now rather than later.

a 1.42 volt drop is too much...

[Sudds]

I agree on the voltage drop. Present plan is to trace all wiring and look for a reason for the loss of 1 and 4 that happened for a short time first off. I believe that has happened previously. And will also look at the kill switch. Need to take time first off to really studly the wiring diagram. But I really don't know if the voltage drop is normal or not. Wouldn't think so. Sure would be a help if someone with an identical bike would check their voltage to the coils just to compare.

I don't have daily access to the bike right now. That is the reason for the response delays.

Sudds

[Sudds]

All of you have given me good advice. I am getting ready to do a complete carb tear down and clean of the carbs. The bike is running and starting great except for the idle. It will not idle well at all. I have not gone into the idle screw since it is sealed with a disk over it. But I will need to get into there. Any suggestions as to how to remove that disk over the screw.