Break-in oil

[rapidray]

Try this site www.mototuneusa.com & read the "break in secrets" Ray.

[rustybronco]

A question for you Ray in regards to cylinder hones. stone type, or ball style?

Being old school, I can't get past changing from a flat stone type of cylinder hone to the newer ball style hone. so should I change my way of thinking on this and convert to the ball style, or be happy with what I've always used.

[82Shafty]

Try this site www.mototuneusa.com & read the "break in secrets" Ray.

I know that dryfilms have been used to help seat piston rings such as Quickseat...along with baking soda and such on old farm equipment that didn't turn high rpms; I guess they have brought it back for HP use.

Assy lubes can cause the rings to glaze, but I have also heard of rings scuffing and burnishing from using no lube at all; trial and error I suppose.

I would also imagine that it may really depends on how well the crank slings oil up into the cylinders, it must happen pretty quickly on a GS.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Total-Seal/Total-Seal-Quickseat-Dry-Film-Powder/750299/10002/-1

[rapidray]

Rusty, I only use the ball hones on cylinders I am just "de-glazing" to put new rings in. If I have to "hone" it at all I am using the stones. Ray.

[82Shafty]

A question for you Ray in regards to cylinder hones. stone type, or ball style?

Being old school, I can't get past changing from a flat stone type of cylinder hone to the newer ball style hone. so should I change my way of thinking on this and convert to the ball style, or be happy with what I've always used.

My understanding is a true honing process is multi-stepped. If you must straighten the cyl a bit, a flat stone system with the proper pressure should be used. Problem is if you do not use new stones for every cyl, the first cyl will contour the stones to it, resulting three goofed up cyl walls. Don't forget about cleaning the stones while they muster out some high spots as well, because they "can" fold over the metal and dig deeper than they need to.

Most get by with a flex hone (ball type).

Consult ring manufacture for the crosshatch angle and RA finish. Best most of on here could do is to guess by using a specific grit flex hone that should achieve a certain finish and measure the CH angle.

Wash with warm soapy water when you are finished. This is where some guys oil the cyls if the jugs will be sitting for more than a few hours out in the open air.

I've seen the briggs guys go nutty with honing with a torque plate as well to create a "true environment".

I'm sure Ray could add his vast experience to this, but just in case you were looking for a quick response.

[Calvin Blackmore]

anyone have a number for the guys in Hamamatsu?
Oh and can speak Japanese?

I wonder how Suzuki did it at the factory?
They seem to have done it well enough.

I dont think High end cars are a good example of break in as they as well as all new engines are built to higher quality control standards than the motors of yesteryear.
same specs over and over again


putting in mobil one may just be GMs way of getting ad money out of Mobil
Like the OEM tires that are practically given to manufacturers in the hopes that the new owner will continue with them as a replace,ment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQe4G0Q9qiU

I cannot see using assembly lube on a valve train that is already worn in.
regular oil should be more than sufficient unless some new part has been put in place.

I find it most odd that the low coefficient of friction of metal on metal would require oiling of a cylinder befroe firing

if the oil system has been precharged by spinning the engine sans plugs to bring up pressure then effective lubrication would be available almost instantaneously.

[rustybronco]

Rusty, I only use the ball hones on cylinders I am just "de-glazing" to put new rings in. If I have to "hone" it at all I am using the stones. Ray.

Thank's Ray.

[Nessism]

A question for you Ray in regards to cylinder hones. stone type, or ball style?

Being old school, I can't get past changing from a flat stone type of cylinder hone to the newer ball style hone. so should I change my way of thinking on this and convert to the ball style, or be happy with what I've always used.

Some good info about hones here... http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html

I bought a 240 grit hone to deglaze with this week.

[Nessism]

I'm a member of probably 10-15 different web forums concerning various types of internal-combustion engine restoration/maintenance/repair/performance upgrades.

I am amazed with the vast differences of opinion and philosophy on the topics of break-in procedure and oil selection.
Very entertaining.

And informative, once one sorts through the vitriol and gets to the results of actual empirical testing, that are relevant to the engine type one is concerned with.

I have nothing else to add, or opinions to share.
Carry on.

.

I agree. It's pretty remarkable how the factory recommendation for break in (low rpm) is totally different from some others, such as that Mototune recommendation.

When breaking in an engine I just go ride it though the city for a while. Normal running and avoid lugging. Load the engine with a reasonable amount of throttle - don't baby it. After 100 miles or so go at the throttle a little harder and let the engine pull into the medium-high rpm range. Nothing crazy, just let the engine make some power and pull some rpm. That's it.

I'm pretty anal about keeping the engine parts clean during the rebuild so I just run the original oil (15W -40 diesel) for a few hundred miles and then change it along with the filter - the filter will take out any chunkies so I don't see the point in changing the oil any sooner. The CJ-4 grade of diesel oil has about 1200 ppm zinc which is an okay number these days. Motorcycle oil has a similar amount, or slightly lower amount, of zinc these days so diesel oil is no downgrade. Running auto oil like GTX is a downgrade since it has significantly less zinc.

Regarding the aviation industry and their engine break in recommendations, the industry is VERY conservative, stodgy even. Once a procedure is logged in some maintenance manual, it ain't gonna change anytime soon. Even if the mfg'er has a better procedure they won't typically change since that opens them up to questions from authorities such as the FAA. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" couldn't be more true when talking about aviation.