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Cracked Alternator Cover, how should I fix it? (GS1000)

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    #31
    I bought some of the alumalloy rods probably ten years ago and tried them.
    I could get a decent looking repair, but I couldnt get a decent bond. One sharp rap and the weld seam would crack, a few more and the 'weld" lump would pop loose in my hands. I gave up with the stuff and went back to using J.B. Weld.

    Earl


    Originally posted by Planecrazy View Post
    I bought a product years ago called alumalloy, which claimed to be stronger than aluminum with a lower melting point so you could work it with a regular torch. I never tried it for an application like this, but according to the ads it would be perfect.

    Assuming you don't have a gaping hole in your cover you would heat up the inside with a torch and then apply the alumalloy like solder until it pooled up and filled the crack while bonding to the aluminum. Then you grind down the excess and you have a "stronger than original repair," according to the ad.

    The ads actually showed the product being used to recast broken mounting tabs on alternators and stuff like that. The results looked impressive. Has anyone else used this stuff, and if so what were the results. We originally purchased it to do some aluminum repairs on our boat, but never got around to it and eventually got rid of the boat. I still have the alumalloy.

    Let me know if you want to buy a few rods from me (they are similar in length to welding rods) ... I'd be interested to know how it works out, and the cost would be five to ten bucks (as I recall the original bundle of rods was fifty bucks back in the day...

    Good Luck!
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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