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    high idle after carb synch?

    A friend and me as his lovely assistent 8) synchronised the carburtors of my Katana 1100 yesterday, turned out #2 was way out. So we adjusted it, put the tank back on and adjusted the idle back to about 1100-1200 rpm and get some coffee. About 2 hours later I start it to go home again and it idles at 3500! 8O quicky reached for the idle adjust knob but it didn't have any effect :?

    So when I got home I turned the 3 adjusters out about half a turn and now it idles at about 1400 again but of course now it is out of synch again!

    How can this happen I'm stumped...

    #2
    throttle cable is to tight!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by focus frenzy
      throttle cable is to tight!
      No it isn't.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by robinjo
        Originally posted by focus frenzy
        throttle cable is to tight!
        No it isn't.
        yes it is!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by focus frenzy
          Originally posted by robinjo
          Originally posted by focus frenzy
          throttle cable is to tight!
          No it isn't.
          yes it is!
          And you can tell that from way overthere?

          but it really isn't

          Comment


            #6
            It appears that you have incorrectly placed the handcuffs and they are making it difficult for you to use your special took which is kept in your apron pocket :roll: once you remove said handcuffs and correctly place them your special tool will be able to do it's job properly :twisted:

            So apart from syncing the carbs did you do anything else ?

            Comment


              #7
              Re: high idle after carb synch?

              Originally posted by robinjo
              A friend and me as his lovely assistent 8) synchronised the carburtors of my Katana 1100 yesterday, turned out #2 was way out. So we adjusted it, put the tank back on and adjusted the idle back to about 1100-1200 rpm and get some coffee. About 2 hours later I start it to go home again and it idles at 3500! 8O quicky reached for the idle adjust knob but it didn't have any effect :?

              So when I got home I turned the 3 adjusters out about half a turn and now it idles at about 1400 again but of course now it is out of synch again!

              How can this happen I'm stumped...

              So you rode it home with the high idle? So it revs up fine with the throttle, but doesn't go down when you adjust the idle screw down?

              Intake boot leaks?

              Michael

              Comment


                #8
                Re: high idle after carb synch?

                Robinjo, I will assume that you dont have any intake leaks, havent made any jetting changes, or airfilter changes since it was last running normally. I will further assume you are capable of looking at your throttle cable and identifying slack and a throttle linkage that is fully returning to the stop. LOL :-)

                Now for synching........81 kat, thats going to be CV carbs.
                There are 4 adjustments, not 3. You have the throttle plate position to adjust on 1,2 and 4. 3 has no throttle plate adjuster screw. The adjustment on #3 is changed by turning the idle adjustment knob either in or out. (which also will change the idle setting on 1,2 and 4) Do not change the idle adjustment knob setting during the synching process unless it is required to change the vacuum draw on cylinder 3. Set cylinder three vacuum to 10 in Hg @1200 rpm with the idle adjustment knob with the engine warmed up and idling without any choke.
                Then set the throttle plate adjusters on 1,2 and 4 to draw 10 in Hg at the same 1200 rpm. If your vacuums are very far out of synch, you will get a variance in the baseline setting on #3 and will have to repeat the process, starting with resetting the base vacuum on #3. I adjust cylinder 3 with the idle adjustment knob to the baseline vacuum setting I want to synch to and once I have this, I adjust 1,2 and 4 independently to match that vacuum without again touching the idle adjustment knob. Once all vacuums match and I am through with 1,2 and 4, then I can change the idle adjustment setting, which will now change all four carbs while keeping them equal and increasing or decreasing idle rpm. I set all vacuums first to 10 in Hg @ 1200, then change rpm as needed.

                Vacuum controls mixture and it is your mixture that is not quite right. Set the mixture first.

                Earl


                Originally posted by robinjo
                A friend and me as his lovely assistent 8) synchronised the carburtors of my Katana 1100 yesterday, turned out #2 was way out. So we adjusted it, put the tank back on and adjusted the idle back to about 1100-1200 rpm and get some coffee. About 2 hours later I start it to go home again and it idles at 3500! 8O quicky reached for the idle adjust knob but it didn't have any effect :?

                So when I got home I turned the 3 adjusters out about half a turn and now it idles at about 1400 again but of course now it is out of synch again!

                How can this happen I'm stumped...
                Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                Comment


                  #9
                  So then what needs to be done first? Sync, or set the mixture screws? :twisted:

                  Comment


                    #10
                    On CV carbs, pilot fuel and air are combined into one mixture screw. I set the #3 carb to baseline vacuum using throttle plate adjustment, then set the mixture screw on it for highest idle rpm. Then set the idle adjustment knob to return to 1200 rpm idle. Re adjust throttle plate on #3 to 10 inHg vacuum. Then set the fuel/air pilots (mixture screws) on 1,2 and 4 to the same number of turns as #3. When you have 1200 rpm and #3 is drawing 10 inHg vacuum, you have your baseline and then can set 1,2 and 4 to draw the same vacuum as #3. Once #3 is set to base, you must not touch the idle adjustment knob again. Only when all 4 cylinders draw the same vacuum and rpm remains at 1200 may you change the overall idle rpm if you wish.

                    Setting the mixture screws doesnt do you any good if you dont have the correct intake velocity (vacuum) for the screw setting. After you set up #3, that is why you cannot make any more changes with the idle adjustment knob. Its impossible to synch vacuums if youre constantly sending the reading all over the scale with the idle adjustment knob.

                    Earl



                    [quote="slowfoxbird"]So then what needs to be done first? Sync, or set the mixture screws? :twisted:[/quote
                    ]
                    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: high idle after carb synch?

                      Originally posted by earlfor
                      Set cylinder three vacuum to 10 in Hg @1200 rpm with the idle adjustment knob with the engine warmed up and idling without any choke.
                      How do you determine where 10 in Hg is? I have a mercury carb stick, and it has "hash marks" on it, but no scale.
                      85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
                      79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: high idle after carb synch?

                        My mercury carb stix is calibrated in 2 inhg increments starting at 4 inHg and ending at 54 inHg.

                        Earl


                        Originally posted by renobruce
                        Originally posted by earlfor
                        Set cylinder three vacuum to 10 in Hg @1200 rpm with the idle adjustment knob with the engine warmed up and idling without any choke.
                        How do you determine where 10 in Hg is? I have a mercury carb stick, and it has "hash marks" on it, but no sc
                        ale.
                        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          robinjo, I think I know what happened.
                          I think you hooked up your vacuum tool and created an intake leak.
                          Then you started the bike and saw that cylinder reading way off (below) the others. You then made your adjustment and turned up the vacuum. The bike ran fine at that point because the two things cancelled each other...an intake leak (loss of vacuum) and an over adjusted throttle valve trying to compensate (increase in vacuum). Then you adjusted the idle and buttoned it up.
                          The next time the bike is started, with no vacuum leaking now, the rpm's go way up and of course turning the idle screw adjuster had no effect.
                          It's easy to create a vacuum leak when installing the carb tool adapters.
                          Try the synch again and be sure the adapters are on right.
                          And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                          Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE
                            robinjo, I think I know what happened.
                            I think you hooked up your vacuum tool and created an intake leak.
                            Then you started the bike and saw that cylinder reading way off (below) the others. You then made your adjustment and turned up the vacuum. The bike ran fine at that point because the two things cancelled each other...an intake leak (loss of vacuum) and an over adjusted throttle valve trying to compensate (increase in vacuum). Then you adjusted the idle and buttoned it up.
                            The next time the bike is started, with no vacuum leaking now, the rpm's go way up and of course turning the idle screw adjuster had no effect.
                            It's easy to create a vacuum leak when installing the carb tool adapters.
                            Try the synch again and be sure the adapters are on right.
                            Keith I think you got it!

                            But I will have to check the next time I have a synch tool available to adjust again.

                            Earl thank you very much for that info on synchronising and adjusting the idle mixture, it is being copied and pasted in to a document I will print out for future use.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Youre very welcome. :-) There are few things more pleasant than being able to not touch the bike for a week, and then just turn the ignition on, use no choke, touch the starter button, have the engine turn over one revolution and sit there idling smoothly. Thats my 1150. :-)

                              Earl

                              Originally posted by robinjo
                              Earl thank you very much for that info on synchronising and adjusting the idle mixture, it is being copied and pasted in to a document I will print out for future use.
                              Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                              I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                              Comment

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