Still can not get my 1980 GS550L to start...

[Anonymous]

I have been working on my 1980 GS550L and I still can not get the big to start and stay running. I have removed the gas tank and ensured the petcock is in good shape and is working correctly. I have also removed the carburator and it is clean. I have checked the plugs and wires, which are new and i am getting a blue spark from each spark plug. I have pulled the plugs after trying to start the bike and the plugs are dry. The battery has been charged and the bike is turning over.

does anyone have any suggestions on what I should try next?? I really am looking forward to getting this bike on the road.

Thank you.

[Anonymous]

so you are not getting gas check you floats and needles and you have confirmed that gas flows from the petcock right has to be floats???

[Anonymous]

Yes, have verified there is gas coming from the petcock to the carburator. How do you recommend that I check the floats and needles? I have had the carburator off the bike and cleaned it. The floats seemed to be working fine.

[Anonymous]

HAd the same problem on my 91GS550T rebuild project. Wouldn't start, plugs were dry. A small spray of starter fluid in the airbox and it started right up, and now starts and runs. Could be needed that little extra juice to get the old heart pumping properly...

[Anonymous]

1981 model that is

[TheNose]

Where do you live? Maybe one of our "experts" lives near by and could come give you a hand.

Terry

[Don Lobacz]

The starting fluid test is a good way to see if perhaps your choke system is plugged. If it starts on starting fluid it can possibly pull the blockages out of the choke bleed passages (but not likely). The bleed passages are in the bowls: that hole that allows gas to get to the choke drop tube. These need to be clear (spray Gumout in them to check - watch out for spray! wear safety goggles). A cold GS should not start without choke.

[Anonymous]

tehere should be a drain for each carb after opening the petcock loosen the drain on the bottom of the bowl to ensure that gas is getting there and is the timing right????

[Anonymous]

The starter fluid started the bike and the choke cable needed to be adjusted, it was not opening the choke far enough. The problem i am having now is that then i let it run on choke, it will "run" and I have roll on the throtte, but I can not take the choke off without the bike stalling.

Anyone have a suggestion for getting the bike to idle without the choke on? Could it be the mix between the air and the amount of fuel the engine is getting???

Thank you all for your help, WE are getting there!!!!

[Planecrazy]

I have the same model ... in fifteen years that bike has NEVER idled without choke until it was well warmed up (running at LEAST 10 minutes). See if that is the case with yours. Let it run on the choke for at least five minutes and then take it for a short ride ... See if it idles normally once it's up to operating temperature.

Good Luck,
Steve 8)

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Try turning up the idle adjuster knob several turns and see if it helps.
I assume your airbox and air filter are installed.

[Anonymous]

I have the bike running on choke only, even after 15 minutes of running. Anyone know what the factory setting are for he Air vent screws? I think my mixture is not set right after the rebuild of the carb.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I have the bike running on choke only, even after 15 minutes of running. Anyone know what the factory setting are for he Air vent screws? I think my mixture is not set right after the rebuild of the carb.

Try a couple of turns out on the mixture screws. That's pretty close. At least close enough that the bike would idle decently, if that's the problem.
Those screws can be tight. Use a good fitting tool so you don't strip the heads.

[Anonymous]

I have tried the mixing screws and they were all different so i have them all set at 2 1/2 turns open. Does anyone know the proper settings?

Also, the rubber stoppers for the pilot jets are in bad shape. Would that cause and idling problem?

And one more question: what is the proper size of the main jets? The ones that are in the carb that are on my bike are 92.5.

Thank you all for your help..... i can not wait to get this bike on the road...

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I have tried the mixing screws and they were all different so i have them all set at 2 1/2 turns open. Does anyone know the proper settings?

Also, the rubber stoppers for the pilot jets are in bad shape. Would that cause and idling problem?

And one more question: what is the proper size of the main jets? The ones that are in the carb that are on my bike are 92.5.

Thank you all for your help..... i can not wait to get this bike on the road...

(Adjusting the idle will be difficult if you can't keep it running.)
Try adjusting your mixture screws for the highest rpm possible.
With the bike warmed up and on the centerstand, adjust each mixture screw until you hear the rpm's max out. Do all four this way and then lower the rpm's with the idle adjuster knob. There are no exact factory settings for mixture screws. They are for fine tuning each cylinder and because of differences in each cylinder, each screw can be set differently straight from the factory.
As far as I know, the rubber caps over your pilot jets are just tamper plugs. I don't think there's any change in fuel flow with the caps on or off.
I don't know what size main jets you should have, but their size would not be the cause of your problem.
If starter fluid is the only way to start your bike, then you're possibly lean due to blocked pilot circuit passages or the float height could be way off. You could also have intake leaks.