Cylinder block studs

[GuyC]

Hi all,
Restoring my 1980 GS1100e. The head was leaking so I’m replacing the head gasket as well as the base gasket. Some of the s tuds seems to be loose.
What is the torque setting for the studs? It doesn’t seem to be listed in my manual.

Also, the block has been off this bike once before. Any truth to the advertisement info from aftermarket studs that the OEM studs are good for one use only? Should I consider replacing the studs and bolts? And if so, should I be concerned about removing the stock studs from a 42 year old bike?
Thank you

[zed1015]

Unless overtightened and stretched the stock studs are usually ok.
Stock studs have a bulge (shoulder) at the transition from the end of the threads to the beginning of the plain shank to prevent them being screwed into the case too far and breaking out the bottom of the hole. These can be torqued.
Refitting the loose ones at around 18 ftlb and applying some thread lock is all that's needed..
Removing the tight ones can be difficult and will most likely get damaged so only remove if you intend to replace with others.
There is also a risk of one or two shearing off so an extractor that grips close to the crankcase and some heat applied to soften the factory applied thread lock is the way to go.
Most aftermarket studs are straight shank and do not have have the anti bottoming bulge so are not torqued in their holes but set at specific height and thread locked in place.

[GuyC]

Excellent Zed. Thanks so much for the detailed and quick response. I guess I’ll play it safe and continue with the stock studs.