Information on my winter project.

[Boozy Creek Beast]

It is quickly getting close to that dreaded time of the year, Yep Time to but the Beast away for the winter. I have several ideas for my winter project and just wanted a little advice as to which would be the most beneficial and what kind of cash I am going to have to part with. All thought I believe most at the GSR know me and my Bike I will set up the configuration for those that don’t. I have a 1980 1100E with an 1166 kit original air box, V&H Megaphone, and a stage 1 jet kit. Other that the 1166 Pistons and the V&H Header my bike is stock.

Possible Projects

1. Split the Case check out the lower end and have the crank welded.
A. How difficult is it to split the cast?
B. How much dose it cost to check the crank and weld it if possible.
2. Complete valve job / Port and Polish the head.
A. I have replaced all the valve seals so is it necessary to go any further.
B. What is porting and how dose it help. Is it necessary?

Thanks for the help!!!
The Beast

[lecroy]

[QUOTE
1. Split the Case check out the lower end and have the crank welded.
A. How difficult is it to split the cast?
B. How much dose it cost to check the crank and weld it if possible.
2. Complete valve job / Port and Polish the head.
A. I have replaced all the valve seals so is it necessary to go any further.
B. What is porting and how dose it help. Is it necessary?

Thanks for the help!!!
The Beast[/QUOTE]


For what it's worth...

1. Split the Case check out the lower end and have the crank welded.

If your driving on the street, with street tires, don't bother. If this is not the case and you plan to make more power and want to plant it, then read on.


A. How difficult is it to split the cast?

4 hours for me to pull a motor and split it. Two people would go much faster. If you have never done it I can imagine spending more than a day.

B. How much dose it cost to check the crank and weld it if possible.

Depends who you talk to. Many people have their cranks welded by Joe's welding down the road for $100. I would never suggest this to anyone. Using the wrong materials can weaken the crank and prevent a real crank builder from repairing the damage after the fact.

Depending on how many miles the engine has and how it has been rode, there may be enough damage to the rods that they may need to be replaced. I just had one tore down, inspected, new 493 rods, bearings, replaced small end with big end, reassembled and welded for about $1000. I supplied the gear, so it saved a few hundred.

I had one done last summer that I had torn down, inspected, replaced gear, reassembled and welded for $500.

Both cranks had been welded prior to sending them out. I would contact Falicon or Pearson.


If you really need this done you need to look at having the clutch reworked. Again, more $$$$. A billet basket with a streight cut gear I bet is going to be in the $700 or so now days. I just had one reworked last summer. I supplied a billet basket. They put on a new gear, bigger rivets, thick backing plate, springs and welded it up for $600. Falicon and Pearson can do this work. I think MTC will also.


2. Complete valve job / Port and Polish the head.

Good idea if it's leaking. Send it to FBG. Call and talk with Kevin.

A. I have replaced all the valve seals so is it necessary to go any further.

Does it leak? I had them do a valve job only (new springs, seals & keepers) for $400 or so last summer. I had them do another job last month where we put in stainless valves, springs, seals & keepers for $700 or so. No porting work.

B. What is porting and how dose it help. Is it necessary?

Do a search on the net for what porting is. Is it necessary? For a street bike, no. Cost will depend on how far you want to go with it. Friends heads normally run $3500 on their T/G bikes setup by FBG.

You could also get some mild cams for it. If you go with cams, make sure you understand that bigger lift is going to cost you. Maybe machineing the valve pockets deeper and hard welding the rockers for starts.


If it were my bike, I would just do a simple leak down and compression test to see where you are before you dive in. If there is a problem, just have a valve job done on it. If it's running good, just keep saving your $$$ for that new bike.