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Amperite stop-alert brake light pulsator

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    #16
    Im wondering if the LED replacement 1157 flashing bulg would be easier. Or if that unit will work with one of the 360 LED replacements.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Steve View Post
      You want something that is VERY noticeable (but a tad pricey)?

      Hyperlites

      Several models ranging from simple brake lights to combination tail/brake/turn units, but they are really worth it.

      .
      i might just go this route... check out youtube and hyperlite and you may be convinced too
      "I have come to believe that all life is precious." -- Eastman, TWD6.4

      1999 Triumph Legend 900 TT




      https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693054986_036c0d6951_m.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693282393_74ae51fbf9_m.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2mKXzTx]

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        #18
        One advantage you guys are not thinking of, if your brake light filament burns out, you still have something back there lighting up when you stop.

        I have these on one bike, might put it on some others.

        I have followed a few bikes with these flashing LEDs done poorly, where it is very confusing. Can't really see if it's a faulty turn signal, or a brake light, or what? I don't like it when they are put to either side of the tail light, then it does look like a turn signal.
        Probably better off without than with something confusing.

        And far better than all the lights in the world is paying attention to who and what is behind you at all times.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #19
          And far better than all the lights in the world is paying attention to who and what is behind you at all times
          I agree most of teh time you should ride like you are invisible. So when I have to stop behind a vehicle in the middle of the road, I pull to the side in case I need to get out of the way (i.e. escape route) and I'm not trapped. That doesn't mean however that you can't prepare yourself by trying to make yourself more visible.

          The relay, works but the blinking is too fast to be dramatically visable. The LED 1157 replacement did not help. I'm going to see if I can add soem capacitance to slow it down hmmmm....... I'll get back

          UPDATE: A capaciter doesnt have the intended effect. Apparently the device is digitally controlled and is not related to the charging current. It has a very high duty cycle when modulating somthing like 95% at 5 hz so that is why the light barely blinks. It is a two terminal device so I put a 4700uf across the device and the output to ground and it only reduces the off time further. No affect on the timing. I might open it up to see if there is a cap that could be tweeked?

          Pos
          Last edited by posplayr; 06-13-2009, 02:13 PM.

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            #20
            SUCCESS
            I pulled the cover and figured out it was a 555 timing circuit buried in expoy. A little deduction and trial and error but adding a 100 K ohm resistor made the flasher much more noticeable
            Video at 6 PM

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              #21
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              SUCCESS
              I pulled the cover and figured out it was a 555 timing circuit buried in expoy. A little deduction and trial and error but adding a 100 K ohm resistor made the flasher much more noticeable
              Video at 6 PM
              It's 8 and no video????
              Slacker
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #22
                See the first post in this thread for a before after comparision.

                This is with the 100K ohm resistor mod.

                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK244FTfvuQ

                The STOP ALERT actally flashes too fast and doesnt remove the voltage from the brake filament for long enough. After a little detective work I found that the circuit is based on a 555 times in astable mode. The resistor I added increased the down time and made the flash much more pronounced. 100K ohms did the trick. Hot glue the parts for vibraction and glue it back together for water resistance.



                Amperlite STOP ALERT (after modification) mounted at the tail under the seat. This is a two terminal device that goes in series with the +12V lead to the bright filament in your brake light. It is polarity sensitive so mark your leads for the + side and put that to connector #1.

                Last edited by posplayr; 06-14-2009, 01:07 PM.

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                  #23
                  I got this from the
                  https://www.kisantech.com/regulations.php

                  looks like the nominal flash rate is supposed to be 4.0 hz +/- 0.66

                  I measured my Amperlite and they are right at 4.08 hz with 20% off duty cycle. I might take a spare with a relay and hook it up to the headlamps as well. Cheap solution I know but I know what I have then.

                  Below is the federal standard for Headlamp modulators. I dont understand what the light sensor is for. Is the modulation supposed to be turned off during daylight hours?
                  S7.9.4 Motorcycle headlamp modulation system.
                  S7.9.4.1 A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity, provided that:
                  (a) The rate of modulation shall be 240 <plus-minus<ls-thn-eq>40 cycles per minute. (4.0 +/- 0.66 Hz)
                  (b) The headlamp shall be operated at maximum power for 50 to 70 percent of each cycle. 70% max
                  (c) The lowest intensity at any test point shall be not less than 17 percent of the maximum intensity measured at the same point.
                  (d) The modulator switch shall be wired in the power lead of the beam filament being modulated and not in the ground side of the circuit.
                  (e) Means shall be provided so that both the lower beam and upper beam [[Page 330]] remain operable in the event of a modulator failure.
                  (f) The system shall include a sensor mounted with the axis of its sensing element perpendicular to a horizontal plane. Headlamp modulation shall cease whenever the level of light emitted by a tungsten filament light operating at 3000[deg] Kelvin is either less than 270 lux (25 foot-candles) of direct light for upward pointing sensors or less than 60 lux (5.6 foot-candles) of reflected light for downward pointing sensors. The light is measured by a silicon cell type light meter that is located at the sensor and pointing in the same direction as the sensor. A Kodak Gray Card (Kodak R-27) is placed at ground level to simulate the road surface in testing downward pointing sensors.
                  (g) When tested in accordance with the test profile shown in Figure 9, the voltage drop across the modulator when the lamp is on at all test conditions for 12 volt systems and 6 volt systems shall not be greater than .45 volt. The modulator shall meet all the provisions of the standard after completion of the test profile shown in Figure 9.

                  (h) Means shall be provided so that both the lower and upper beam function at design voltage when the headlamp control switch is in either the lower or upper beam position when the modulator is off.
                  S7.9.4.2
                  (a) Each motorcycle headlamp modulator not intended as original equipment, or its container, shall be labeled with the maximum wattage, and the minimum wattage appropriate for its use. Additionally, each such modulator shall comply with S7.9.4.1 (a) through (g) when connected to a headlamp of the maximum rated power and a headlamp of the minimum rated power, and shall provide means so that the modulated beam functions at design voltage when the modulator is off.
                  (b) Instructions, with a diagram, shall be provided for mounting the light sensor including location on the motorcycle, distance above the road surface, and orientation with respect to the light. S7.9.5 Each replaceable bulb headlamp that is designed to meet the photometric requirements of paragraph S7.9.1(a) or paragraph S7.9.2(a) and that is equipped with a light source other than a replaceable light source meeting the requirements of paragraph S7.7, shall have the word ``motorcycle'' permanently marked on the lens in characters not less than 0.114 in. (3 mm) in height. S7.9.6 A headlamp system shall be installed on a motorcycle in accordance with the requirements of this paragraph. S7.9.6.1 The headlamp system shall be located on the front of the motorcycle. S7.9.6.2 (a) If the system consists of a single headlamp, it shall be mounted on the vertical centerline of the motorcycle. If the headlamp contains more than one light source, each light source shall be mounted on the vertical centerline with the upper beam no higher than the lower beam, or horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline and mounted at the same height. If the light sources are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of the effective projected luminous lens area in front of the light sources shall not be greater than 200 mm (8 in.). (b) If the system consists of two headlamps, each of which provides both an upper and lower beam, the headlamps shall be mounted either at the same height and symmetrically disposed about the vertical centerline or mounted on the vertical centerline. If the headlamps are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of their effective projected luminous lens areas shall not be greater than 200 mm (8 in.).
                  (c) If the system consists of two headlamps, one of which provides an upper beam and one of which provides the lower beam, the headlamps shall be located on the vertical centerline with the upper beam no higher than the lower beam, or horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline and mounted at the same height. If the headlamps are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of their effective projected luminous lens areas shall not be greater than 200 mm (8 in.).
                  Last edited by posplayr; 06-14-2009, 04:47 PM.

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                    #24
                    OK I FINALLY installed the Amperlite on my ED. Pretty simple; find the 3 contact plug to your tail lights that has a brown, white and black/White wire. The White wire is the one of the brake lights. The end away from the brake light is the source. I cut the wire and added a red pigtail which goes to the #1 hot side of the Amperrite (it is polarity sensitive). The remaining harness was long enough to add a another female spade for the #2 connection. It all hides nicely behind my tool tray.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                      OK I FINALLY installed the Amperlite on my ED. Pretty simple; find the 3 contact plug to your tail lights that has a brown, white and black/White wire. The White wire is the one of the brake lights. The end away from the brake light is the source. I cut the wire and added a red pigtail which goes to the #1 hot side of the Amperrite (it is polarity sensitive). The remaining harness was long enough to add a another female spade for the #2 connection. It all hides nicely behind my tool tray.
                      Why would anyone it their right mind install that thing?
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        Why would anyone it their right mind install that thing?

                        I needed a little ballast on the right hand side to improve my left hand cornering

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                          #27
                          I went with the basic hyperlite.


                          and here we have at nighttime from a distance (the noise is the rain)
                          Last edited by kerrfunk; 08-22-2009, 09:14 PM.
                          "I have come to believe that all life is precious." -- Eastman, TWD6.4

                          1999 Triumph Legend 900 TT




                          https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693054986_036c0d6951_m.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693282393_74ae51fbf9_m.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2mKXzTx]

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                            #28
                            Bump.......................

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