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4 to 1, Pods, Re-Jetting ISSUES!

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    4 to 1, Pods, Re-Jetting ISSUES!

    I know that this topic has been frequently talked about, and I've done some research with the search function on this site. I've worked on Honda CB's before and basically followed the procedure outlined below, and things have been fine. But... With the GS, I'm a bit confused. I would appreciate any suggestions for solving the problem that I have. So far this is what I've done to my 1978 GS750

    1. Acquired it with a 4 to 1 exhaust. Didn't sound too good, or go over 55 mph when I got it.
    2. Installed air pod filters.
    3. Rejetted to 127.5.
    4. Air screw is totally closed
    5. Fuel screw is 1 1/2 turns

    It tends to die when I take it off choke. Sometimes it will idle for a while, but when I twist the throttle, it sounds like it's sucking air and not getting enough fuel, to sound, or run the way I'd like it to. Seems to me that using a larger jet 130 or 135 would help balance out the fuel and air flow. But I'd like some advice before I dive in.

    Any suggestions is appreciated.

    Scudder

    #2
    prolly getting to much air through the pods, did the pods get filter oil??
    bigger main/pilot will even out a lil, , check the pilot jets see if there clogged up
    air screws must be opened, it will not run right, 2 open from closed is max i believe
    check the compression see if all cyls are close to each in psi, jetting isnt going to fix a wore out motor
    dont mess with float level keep it factory,, make sure the floats are shutting off the fuel, in each carb.or it will flood and blubber and drive you crazy
    new needles and seats might be needed
    make sure air vent tubes are clear
    jet needles in the 2nd position is a good start
    make sure the tank and petcock are clean,and fuel line flow well
    start with these things

    Comment


      #3
      Rebuild the carbs. Clean em, clean clean clean.
      Did I mention clean?

      Then at least you'll have a starting point.

      Check Dennis Kirk for recomended stage three jet kit for your model.
      sigpic

      82 GS850
      78 GS1000
      04 HD Fatboy

      ...............................____
      .................________-|___\____
      ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

      Comment


        #4
        Scudder,

        You have to go back to the basics. You bought an old bike that doesn't run well. So,

        1. Adjust valves
        2. Clean carbs with new O rings
        3. Sync carbs
        4. New carb boots?

        There's all the info you need to do this on the site.

        Your bike should run rich on 127.5s. Having the air screw closed isn't helping anything either

        Your problems are not based on the jet size. The PO has the bike all screwed up, so get your motor ready and work from there.
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          I do believe the VM carbs have an adjustable needle. Raise it two notches (two notches down on the needle).
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            You are fast Bill! I was going to suggest you would be along soon

            Comment


              #7
              Yah, turn the pilot screw on the bottom out about 1 turn clean the carbs and move the needle up by moving the clip down a notch and 125 main jets work well enough for me. Also having the floats adjusted properly makes a world of difference. Make sure you adjust them with the float gasket out of the carb to about an inch. I did a custom exhast pack job with header wrap on the ends of the baffles and a little steel wool in the center makes it sound great.

              Comment


                #8
                127.5's could be in the ball park, but more likely 125's will be needed.
                I believe 130's are way to big.

                1) adjust valves
                2) replace intake o-rings
                3) check and adjust point gaps
                4) static time the 1-4 point set, then the 2-3 point set
                5) check the resistance from plug cap to plug cap on the 1-4 and 2-3 coils; should be around 22k (22,000 ohms)
                6) place the clips on the needles at the 4th notch down from the top
                7) bench sync the carbs
                8) externally check the fuel levels and adjust to factory spec's
                9) set pilot air screws to 1-1/2 turns from lightly seated
                10) set pilot fuel screws 1-1/2 turns from lightly seated
                11) vacuum sync the carbs
                12) final pilot screw(s) adjustment(s) as needed

                when finished, plug chops will tell you what jetting changes, if any, you will need to make.




                Last edited by rustybronco; 09-21-2009, 09:13 AM.
                De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                Comment


                  #9
                  Needles

                  I move the clip on the needle down to the 4th position, and made some of the sugggested adjustments. Runs a little better and I seem to be making some progress. However... I notice the needles are basically dull. They don't come to a point. With the CBs I've worked on, the needles are pretty sharp and too a point. Is a rounded needle appropriate for a GS, or do I need to replace them? Would you recommend I get rebuilding kits for all 4 carbs? I've already cleaned the carbs and they really were in good shape considering other bikes that I've worked on.

                  Scudder

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The adjustment screws for the air side (on the side) of the pilot circuit have a kind of blunt/rounded tip. the fuel screws (bottom of carb) are pointed, not needle sharp, but definitely pointed.

                    think of it this way, instead of having a fixed orfice air jet, the VM's have a adjustable orifice (air screws). then you supply the correct metered amount of fuel with the fuel screws.

                    if in doubt, post pictures of them.

                    unless something is worn or broken in the carbs, all that will be needed are new orings and possibly new bowl gaskets.

                    Originally posted by Scudder View Post
                    and made some of the sugggested adjustments. Runs a little better and I seem to be making some progress.
                    There are no short cuts...
                    Last edited by rustybronco; 09-21-2009, 12:23 PM.
                    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                    Comment

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