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Leans out in midrange

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    Leans out in midrange

    Hello again!

    I finally got my 650 up and functional and am now working on fine tuning everything. The only problem I have now is a definite lean spot from about 4k to 6k RPM. This only happens in midrange throttle, if you baby it along, it won't lean out, and if you twist it it will power through it.

    Any ideas?

    Also, there is a slight increase in valvetrain noise when it leans out.

    Thanks!

    #2
    Is the bike stock?

    Have you performed all the various maintenance tasks? Clean the carbs? New O-rings in carbs? New intake boot O-rings? Vacuum sync the carbs? Valve adjustment? Airbox sealed w/fresh filter (that is also sealed to the airbox)?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      he probably has a 4:1 and is feeling the flat spot due to reversion

      Comment


        #4
        That's not valvetrain noise. That's pinging! (detonation) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
        Shim that needle or get a Dynojet needle. You need to richen that needle and fast or you may hurt something.
        If you need to ride it and can't fix it right away retard the timing a few degrees.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          To be completely honest I don't know if it is stock, it appears to be, but who knows.

          Pinging, you say? Well that isn't good at all. I will have to pull the carbs and try to shim the needle and see what happens. Any idea how much I should shim it? Or at least a good place to start?

          Thanks for all of the help!

          Comment


            #6
            Get some Assorted small washers from Radio Shack.
            Take off the plastic spacer over the jet needle.
            Stack the washers the same heigth as the spacer. Take away two to start and replace the plastic washer with those washers.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Will do. Thanks for the info hopefully the problem will be corrected.

              Comment


                #8
                normal needle adjustments are 0.5mm or about 0.020"
                SUZUKI , There is no substitute

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                  #9
                  Had the same issue with my 1981 GS650G. I rebuilt the carbs using K&L carb kits. And I just removed the plastic spacer and I put a washer on top of the c clip, the same size as the one that retains the needle spring. Went for a 80 mile plus ride, no more noise and the bike pulls stronger in the 3500 rpm to 5500 rpm range!


                  Will

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