Custom Painting Question(s)

[Schweisshund]

Yes I know about seafoam and have preached about its effectiveness. I used chemtool for the sake of convenience as I was out of seafoam and it was 2 in the morning and walmart doesn't sell it. I will NOT be using chemtool anymore. :-D

[Nessism]

The reason to use that catalized urethane clear is to survive F'ups like spilling chemicals on the paint. Costs more, but worth it (my opinion).

[rustybronco]

I'm currently shopping around for a decent compressor, my little pancake compressor just isn't cutting it anymore. I have a Binks spray gun, just needs a new can. I'd love an HVLP or gravity feed, but I'm too poor to be picky.
With the spray booth equipped with both intake and exhaust fans, with the appropriate filters, and a charcoal mask I should be okay, right?

Borrow you one I will... (HVLP 1.6 TIP)
A hvlp is an air hog compared to the old cup guns.
you can get a used cup on e-bay for your old binks.
spray booth? how do you like mine?

[Schweisshund]

With no clear coat on my bike - the silverleaf has made a very cool weathered appearance I may just keep instead of putting another touch up layer over it.

I am liking this bike. Getting brand new tires Tuesday (Michelin rain treads) and a pro carb tune up by some guys who own a throttle shop in my area.

[Schweisshund]

Time to revive this thread
I am not finished but have ridden my bike everywhere !!! have new tires on it too.

I am going to do some color patterns on this bike. I am thinking about using pearlescent paint over the mettalic - anyone ever do this?

[PAULYBOY]

I read thru page 15 of this thread. Here's some basics: it's best to etch any bare metal, or use a product like 3m has that is a primer/prep specifically for bare metal. Either way, make sure all areas to be painted are primed first. Primers specific duty is to give finish coats somethibng to adhere to. They are chemically a different formula than finish paint. Decide whether you're going to color sand or not. If you do, do it ALL by hand. When using a clear coat, spray on multiple light layers keeping in mind the flash times and the recoat times.
Now, the difference between rattle can paints and auto paints is this- rattle can paints are mass produced using the least costly components and methods. Since they have to live together in a can for years, they inherently CANNOT be the same chemicals that you get when you buy any of the newer colors from a paint shop. The reason you mix paint and hardener (or catalyst) and then thinner or reducer is because these cure photochemically, not by evaporation like spray cans. The same is true for clears. HOK colors can be found on e-bay, and they're great to use. A couple of the stores on e-bay motors offer kits, with prearranged color sets.
Oh, and one more thing, when I 1st started selling car parts in 1984, we mixed paint. The first thing I was taught was this- do NOT put laquer over enamel. BAD things will happen, really bad, the finger paint police will hunt you down. I'm surprised, however, that thru all this I didn't find one mention of powdercoating. I kinda thought from the original Toyota line of thought that you'd get there from here. Powder coating is nothing more than a baked on version of electrstatically charged painting. The paint is an positively charged powder finer than talcum powder, and the object being painted is connected to an negatively charged rail of some sort. Then you bake it til it's golden brown and all the chocolate chips have melted.

[PAULYBOY]

I am going to do some color patterns on this bike. I am thinking about using pearlescent paint over the mettalic - anyone ever do this?

One more thing- if you're gonna use kandys or pearls over metallics, you'll probably get better results if you use HOK's intercoat clear between coats of these, especially if yer trying for a custom hue using a couple different colors. Otherwise, the pigments will mix into each other.

[Dave8338]

One more thing- if you're gonna use kandys or pearls over metallics, you'll probably get better results if you use HOK's intercoat clear between coats of these, especially if yer trying for a custom hue using a couple different colors. Otherwise, the pigments will mix into each other.

There's a good heads up tip for all...as the colors will blend slightly and it will take on a "muddy" look.

[Suzuki_Don]

I repainted the same plastics that you have ('83 550E), and I used my random orbital air sander with 200 grit pads on the plastic portions. When I got all the way through the paint, the pads tended to leave a rough surface on the plastic. I used Rustoleum plastic primer that I found at lowes...a few coast of this with a few sandings in between with about 400 grit paper, and then the basecoat clearcoat. They came out fine, very smooth, and the paint seems very flexible...no problems after 5 months.

Which basecoat, clearcoat did you use?
Thanks

[Theo]

Ok. I've read through all 189 posts of this thread and have yet to see pics of the finished product. Where's the finished product?
-Theo

[sachsaca]

A good paint shop will guide you in the right direction. Prep, prep, prep, it is the key to an outstanding paint job. You saw my rattle can job and it was all prep. I used a chemical etch, I took it down to the metal. If you do use chem etch leave nothing but metal. The fumes will release and ruin the new paint. This is a must do. Good coats of primer. I put down about 5 then started wet sanding. I put on more let them cure and then wet sanded. I did this two coats at a time till I was happy with the primer coating over the tank and side plates. Be anal... My neighbor paints cars, custom jobs. He finishes his primer sanding with 220 or close. It gives the paint something to bind to. He told me to first lay a fog coating of paint not to much just a cloud and let it dry then start painting. I did and my paint job came out wonderful. The initial sanding and primer coating is the most important part though. What you leave will show.