Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[gus33]

Yeah, it looks like I can run two of the stator wires running directly to the R/R, while the other goes to the light switch and then back into the R/R. The positive (fused) and ground go across the battery and that's it. As long as I can figure out which pin is which on the R/R it should be easy. Excellent.....(wringing of hands)....

[Billy Ricks]

I picked up one of those FH012 units off ebay ($25 shipped) but haven't installed it yet. My 850 has a five wire CRB R/R and it works great.

The FH012 has some odd shaped plugs so I think individual spayed connectors are the only reasonable solution. Not sure how to seal these off to water though. At any rate, I can't see purchasing some 25+ year old Honda R/R when late model versions are so cheap (this is my logic since all this electrical talk is over my head).

Same R/R I'm using. My sentiments as well about the old Honda R/R's.

[posplayr]

WAHHOOOO It Works !!!!!!!!

Since someone seems to have put their mind to
doing a better design with the Shindengen FH012AA , I'm hoping they also improved on the regulation as well.

Long story short this things works great. First time I have ever seen a GS idle at 14.25 Volts and then max out at only 14.5V at 6K RPM. . See pics showing the charging voltage at the R/R as compared to the Tach.

Adding a little to the story, My ED has been feeling poorly lately. Basically it was taking a 1/2 of a can of starting fluid to even get it to hit.

It finally started after i pulled the gas tank off of it and was directly feeding gas to it from a gas bottle.

As I'm checking the charging system the thing idles at about 13V and then dives to about 12.5V under throttle .
Also the Electrosport R/R is getting very hot (in 2 minutes of running) . The connector that plugged into the harness is also getting hot. This is a brand new harness that I installed last year and a brand new Electrosport installed last summer as well. The stator had been previously replaced by the PO at a dealership with an OEM unit which looked great. Essentially everything (related to charging) was new as both the handlebar control switches and the ignition switch were new.

OK Enough is enough, pull out the FJR regulator I bought a while back but did not try. I cut off the connector from the Electrosport and soldered the leads onto the FJR as shown in the pics (drilled and soldered).

The bike fires up and starts idling at 13.5 Volts. Well I think that is great it normally idles at 12.8V. Then I revved it up and it only goes up to 14.5V. After letting it idle again it is charging at 14.25 at just idle The battery was down from the crap charging of the electrosport.

The unit gets a little warm, but but nothing like the Electrosport (I have it dangling so no heat conduction away from the FJR device) and the connectors still gets just as hot. The connectors from the Stator where it hooks into the harness are not hot. So I'm going to wire directly into the R/R from the stator.

This still needs some grounding work but it basically cured all of the issues just using this new FET based Regulator.

You an see in the pics the unit is a little larger than even the Electros sport of the Honda unit I have. I had to do a little filing and grinding to get it to fit. It will be mounted upside down and I will RTV the connectors. It will still fit on the mounting plate with the original GS holes. Like I said some filing is required.

I'm still debating weather to mount the FJR R/R on a copper heatsink to conduct heat to the frame. This is a 50 Watt unit but it has to be derated at higher temperatures and if there is no heat sinking provided. But the efficiency is so much better than the old SCR designs that it will be hardly stressed in comparison.

Pos

P.S.

I bought the only one I could find on E-bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AIT&viewitem=

[posplayr]

Yamaha Part number and Flatout Price

Shindengen FH012AA ,

Listed for the following bikes; there are more but it seems to be 2006 and later

2007 FJR13AEW/FJR13AEWC

2007 FZS10WC/FZS10W

2007 YZFR1WC/YZFR1W


RECTIFIER & REGULATOR
1D7-81960-00-00 1 $143.16

[duaneage]

Same R/R I'm using. My sentiments as well about the old Honda R/R's.

I've sold 106 Honda RRs so far and everyone seems to be pretty happy with them. To each his own I guess. The Hondas are indeed 25 years old and they still work flawlessly. Time will tell if another newer model lasts that long.

I'll let you guys test that out for us.


There also is a large list of machines the Old Hondas can come from, that helps with availability a lot.

[posplayr]

duaneage

The Hondas are indeed 25 years old and they still work flawlessly.

I guess I could set one up , but do you have any regulation performance data for the Honda unit. For example when operating properly what is the output voltage at idle? At 5000 RPM?

From what I recall, the electrical design of the Honda unit is only a variation of the Suzuki OEM unit in that it has an external sense wire to provide a reference to the output voltage control circuitry. Physically the Honda unit seems to be only about 10% larger than the Suzuki OEM.

TIA

Pos

[Billy Ricks]

I've sold 106 Honda RRs so far and everyone seems to be pretty happy with them. To each his own I guess. The Hondas are indeed 25 years old and they still work flawlessly. Time will tell if another newer model lasts that long.

I'll let you guys test that out for us.


There also is a large list of machines the Old Hondas can come from, that helps with availability a lot.

I don't think anyone is out to diss you for the service you provide. I have bought two CBR1000RR units for $30 and they work fine. As you say to each his own. You make it easy for someone who doesn't know what to look for. Some of us just want something a little newer than our bikes.

[Nessism]

With the CBR R/R, my 850's idle voltage is over 14 volts. It bolts in place under the battery box just like the stock R/R as well which is nice. My FH012AA unit is in a holding pattern for now - will most likely land on the 1000S when I get that far. Nothing against 25 year old Honda units either, but technology marches on and there is less risk in buying something newer in my view.

[posplayr]

The experiment continues.

With the CBR R/R, my 850's idle voltage is over 14 volts. It bolts in place under the battery box just like the stock R/R as well which is nice. My FH012AA unit is in a holding pattern for now - will most likely land on the 1000S when I get that far. Nothing against 25 year old Honda units either, but technology marches on and there is less risk in buying something newer in my view.

OK So maybe I just discovered that the Electrosport is crap. I still have an OEM and Honda unit to try out.

I know on the two OEM units I have tried on my GS750 that charging at idle is less than 13 volts (line 12.8-12.9 v)and the charging at high RPM can go over 15V. So there is drop out occuring at the low end and weak regulation at the high end. There are all of the variations associated wit h the poor conenctions in between.

If the old 6 wire Honda has that much better regulation I will be a bit surprised as the only way to improve the idle output voltage is to have a better stator or get rid of the full wave rectifier which drops 3-4 volts in the R/R.

The experiment continues.

Pos


P.S. Ed how many wires on your CBR R/R with over 14V idle voltage ?

[Larry D]

If this link works here's a list of all the machines Yamaha put these on. If the link doesn't work the part ## is 1D7-81960-00-00. Just type it in any Yamaha parts site. Little more expensive on this site...

http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/2/Yamaha.aspx#top

The link just takes you to thier parts page.....Select Yamaha and type in the part # in the quick parts lookup section to the right.

[Fishman]

I've sold 106 Honda RRs so far and everyone seems to be pretty happy with them. To each his own I guess. The Hondas are indeed 25 years old and they still work flawlessly. Time will tell if another newer model lasts that long.

I'll let you guys test that out for us.


There also is a large list of machines the Old Hondas can come from, that helps with availability a lot.

Yep, I'm thrilled with mine. It works perfectly. When I get my next GS it will be the first mod I do to it. Cheaper than a new battery even, and extra electrical capacity for gadgets, what's not to like?

[Robu]

I too changed over to a honda r/r on my GS1000e and it worked great until I forgot to turn lights back on with light switch and my stator R/R all seemed to have died no longer charging .It all happened when working on the horn, with ignition switch on and lights turned off motor not running to save battery any idea if this could cause it ?
Rob

[Billy Ricks]

Yep, I'm thrilled with mine. It works perfectly. When I get my next GS it will be the first mod I do to it. Cheaper than a new battery even, and extra electrical capacity for gadgets, what's not to like?

You still don't have any more power available to you than before. The stator is what makes the power, the R/R only regulates it.

[rustybronco]

You still don't have any more power available to you than before. The stator is what makes the power, the R/R only regulates it.

The F.E.T. style regulator is near 95-100% efficient, the old style S.C.R. type in not. so there would be a power gain increase (less power given up as heat) from the lower voltage drop of the components used, if you used the F.E.T. R/R instead of a S.C.R. R/R.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=936669&postcount=12

The SCR control was also doing the same. Both of these devices (diodes and SCR) are not particularly efficient. The diodes drop about 0.8V in saturation and the SCR is probably well over 1V. A FET can carry teh same current but will drop much less voltage than this as the FET on resistance is essentially zero.

On the positive side, the Diodes and SCR need very little to control the on/off of current conduction. The SCR has a reference it needs to provide closed loop regulation. On the other hand the FET's have no intrinsic voltage sensing and require "smart" on/off signals from a "Controller". Now a days this is much easier to do than back 30 years ago. so the R/R can be implemented at much higher efficiency because the Controller switches the FET on and off as required and the FET's never drop much voltage when they conduct so the system produces at least 50% less heat.

Hope this is clearer.

Pos

[Billy Ricks]

Dale,

I've been following the info on the FET units. They should be a big help to those that need a little extra juice. My 700 has a 310 watt stator so it makes more power than the older GS models. You guys that are E/E's have some good info for those that can follow it.