Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[jdub6092]

Just about every page of the engine tear down in the service manual calls for a special tool. Although Ive ammassed a decent amount of specific tools during this project, and unless I plan on making bike restorations a permanent hobby, I'm going to need to find some DIY substitutes. Found a nice little hack for making a clutch sleeve hub holder to remove the mounting nut. Just happened to have the correct size hole saw.20240304_060307.jpg
Going to need new clutch friction plates.
Next special tool to find a sub for is the crank case splitting tool.

Should be getting my frame and other black parts back from powder this week.
Looking forward to transition from tear down to build up.

[nvr2old]

On a sad note, I was quoted $1600-$1800 for tank, fender, covers and tail. I will get a few more quotes and hope that this isnt typical. This guy said he does painting for a motorcycle museum in South Dakota.

Considering one roll of 3/4" 3M masking tape cost 16 bux a roll and a quart of clear w/hardener is over $200 these days that's almost a bargain with the cost of quality materials coming in at about half of that quote. If the guy's good, that quote isn't out of line and he's only pocketing about a grand. Even 12 years ago I used to charge $800 just for doing a tank alone, and prices were less then half of what they are now for materials.

[jdub6092]

Considering one roll of 3/4" 3M masking tape cost 16 bux a roll and a quart of clear w/hardener is over $200 these days that's almost a bargain with the cost of quality materials coming in at about half of that quote. If the guy's good, that quote isn't out of line and he's only pocketing about a grand. Even 12 years ago I used to charge $800 just for doing a tank alone, and prices were less then half of what they are now for materials.

I appreciate the reality check.
Is that also pretty reasonable price for a single color with decals provided by me?

[nvr2old]

Hard to say jdub. It all depends on what condition the parts are in as far as prep hours needed before painting starts. When you start getting into the labor for repairing dents or rust, then add the cost of plastic filler, primer, sealer, multiple grades of sandpaper, it starts to add up quickly. If your parts just need to be sanded and sprayed, that saves a lot. Depending on what color you choose, white or black is the least expensive, any shade of red costs easily 2-3 times as much. Pearls add even more. A single pint of base coat can run upwards of $300 or more. Providing decals save you a bit, for sure.

[jdub6092]

Front Master Cylinder rebuild.
This is an image of the one I have, but searching far and wide, it is just not available. Wondering if something like the subsequent image could be used as a replacement kit.
Also wondering if I could get by with just replacing the rubber parts. The rubber that snaps into the bottom of the spring looks OK and I could probably get by with the o-ring that is on the sliding piece on the piston shaft or find a generic replacement. Need dust seal rubber piece. Bore is 5/8 (.625") and looks to be in decent shape. The piston measures 0.619" and feels a little sloppy. Would appreciate some assistance.

[jdub6092]

Here is the potential replacement?

[jdub6092]

Got my frame and other black parts back from the powder coated. Decided to go with 80+ gloss. I think it was a good compromise. Will post pics this weekend.

Was able to rebuild one fork and it looks to be holding oil quite well. The other has a stripped drain bolt and hole threads. Purchasing a helicoil kit to fix this. Is this the best option?

Replaced steering stem bearings, but not real happy with how tight it feels with stem bolt just beyond finger tight.
Also broke a flange on the cam chain tensioner.
One step forward, three back.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

anyone else not seeing pics in posts # 35, 36? or is it just me?

[jdub6092]

filedata/fetch?id=1742299&d=1710522549&type=thumb They do show up for me, but I'll try again.
This is what I currently have: Suzuki PN 59600-49811

[jdub6092]

filedata/fetch?id=1742301&d=1710522279&type=thumb This is what I'm hoping might be a candidate: Suzuki PN 59600-45860

[jdub6092]

I see there have been previous conversations about this piston/cup set and it doesn't look so good. I could probably get away with just finding a dust boot. The front brakes were strong. The rear was soft, but I was able to find a rebuild kit for that. Otherwise, it looks like I'll need a new MC. Any suggestions for one that would keep this close to stock?

[jdub6092]

Got my parts back from powder coat. Pretty happy with the way they turned out. It was overcast, so this photo doesn't quite bring out the gloss. It will definitely pop once I get it built back up.

20240611_161315.jpg

[jdub6092]

Been awhile since I posted.

The further I get along in this rebuild process, I keep finding more that needs to be done.
My engine is still torn apart, but at least got the crank cleaned up and ready for paint and new clutch plates installed.
Thanks to my $20 HF torque wrench, I overtightened the hub pressure plate and broke two bolts. Thankfully, I was able to draw them out with reverse drill bits and after using a thread chaser, found that no further damage was done to the threads. After my 5th order to Partzilla for clutch plate screws and other items and purchase of an electronic torque sensor added to my torque wrench, I got the clutch plate properly installed.
Also had to add a helicoil insert to a stripped fork drain hole. Worked out well. Forks rebuild done.
Installed bearings on the front wheel, but could not get the bead to seat on my new Dunlop tire. After weeks of trying every method I could find and eventually pinching the tube, i took it to my local m/c shop. Was in and out in 5 minutes. I didnt go past 50 psi, but they did and that did the trick.

20240428_124600.jpg

[jdub6092]

As I go along, I'm noticing some OCD tendencies. Can't move forward until every piece of hardware is cleaned and polished.
Here is what I accomplished this morning - getting the airbox built up.

20240428_125754.jpg

Anyone know how to re- rubberized the clamps. Notice how the integrated cable clamps got crusty from the powder coat baking.

[jdub6092]

I do have the main fuse cover. Just to illustrate the obsession I've developed, I wanted to show that I cleaned and polished the inside as well (including the back side which I will never see again).

20240428_130620.jpg