Project:1980 GS1000g

[GSJohnny]

Forgot to mention.

I built this as well.




Quick question. Does it look like this UNI filter needs to be replaced? Can I clean it?




Thanks again for interest.


~GSJohnny

[azr]

You can clean that filter and re-oil it, remember to just do a light oiling though. New filters are cheap though. THAT is one sweet temporary fuel tank, even has a filter and a valve!!! nice.

[rustybronco]

Are these still in good shape?

Those still look like they'll work okay, although you'll need to re-glue them onto the air box so they will stay in place while you attach the chrome end pieces.

[GSJohnny]

Those still look like they'll work okay, although you'll need to re-glue them onto the air box so they will stay in place while you attach the chrome end pieces.

What should I re-glue them with?

~GSJohnny

[rustybronco]

Possibly yellow weather strip adhesive? I used Indian head gasket cement to glue mine on only because it's what had on hand.

[GSJohnny]

-:BACK FROM THE DEAD:-

Well, sorta...

It has been far too long since I have posted any progress on the bike and I feel the need to share.

School is winding down and I finally have enough time to work on the GS.


Fresh boots make me happy:



IT LIVES!!!:

After fitting the carbs and air box, I went ahead and cranked the bike over. Within a minute the bike was up and running (fairly smooth I might add) much better than it was when I brought it home a few years ago.

My triumph was bittersweet...

Things seemed to be coming together smoothly when I noticed that my air box was sitting too high.

The mount holes do not line up.

Even after pushing the air box down with a good amount of force, there was still about an 1/8" to go.

Not exactly sure what is going on. I took quite a bit of care making sure all the boots were in the right position and orientation.

Another pic for reference.



Curious as to what you guys think. Everything went together fairly smooth. Is it possible that I have the intake boots upside down? The carbs seem to have a lot of forward tilt to them.



I plan to have the carbs synced, bike reassembled and ready to ride by Sunday. Hopefully I can take advantage of some of this amazing weather we are having in Oregon.


Thanks for your time.

~GSJohnny

[azr]

Loosen both the intake and airbox clamps, then bolt up the airbox 'lightly' and then the both clamps, that should do the trick. Usually this problem is the reverse, you can't get the airbox to go high enough for the bolts to line up and it's usually just due to harness wires being in the way. Which way did you put in the intake boots? letter up or down? they are on the right way...right? I mean the ones marked 'L' on the left, 'R' on the right.

[Dogma]

The intake pipes ("carb boots") are upside-down. At least, that's what it looks like to me. The carb bodies should be parallel to the ground, as shown in your previous pics in this thread.

Carbies look great, btw.

[GSJohnny]

So I removed the carbs and checked the boots. The L marked boots and R marked boots are on the correct sides. The letters were pointing upwards. Should they be pointing downwards?


Thanks for your time guys.


~GSJohnny

[azr]

try doing what I said earlier, loosed both the air and intake clamps and then bolt up the airbox, then tighten the clamps.

[GSJohnny]

Update!:

I flipped the intake boots over just to see if the carb rack would fit better but to no avail. I soon realized that the intake boots were in fact, installed correctly. Upon further examination I had noticed that the bottom gang plate was missing a "cut-out" so it would clear the cam chain tensioner. I was able to find another gang plate from my old set of carbs and sure enough, the cut out was where it should be. So I installed the plate and fitted everything back on the bike and sure enough the air box mounting holes lined up!

DONE!

The bike runs, just not very well. I noticed a major amount of smoke coming out of the pipes for a few minutes that smelled like oil somewhat. Is this normal for a bike that has been sitting for at least 3 years? I did put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder about a month ago to soak in.

---- SIDE NOTE--- (((( I had a very beat up oil cooler on the bike when I bought it, so I decided to remove it for now. The oil cooler sending unit is still attached but I cut a rubber hose for a bypass of sorts from the input and output fittings. Is this "bandaid" known to cause issues with oil flow to the bike?))))

Also when I twist the throttle the RPMs drop like its going to die. Any ideas on this? Pilot screws are turned out 2 turns. I will be reading all the guides on Bikecliffs website tonight.


This is all new ground for me, so I'm bumping and scraping as I go.


Thanks for your interest.

~GSJohnny

[JTGS850GL]

Keep an eye on smoke but not unusual for smoke on first startup. Oil in cylinders, melting gunk in exhaust pipes and stuck rings could all clear themselves up in a short time. Could also be dried out valve seals but I wouldn't worry about that unless the oil smoke doesn't go away. Have you done a compression test?

Bypassing the oil cooler should not cause any oil starvation issues. Just run a single hose from the input to output port on the adaptor. I did the same but eventually just picked up a stock plate More for cosmetic reasons then anything else.

If a warm engine will idle but tries to stall when you open the throttle then you have some carb issues still. Float level may be low or some blocked passages would be high on the list. You can try to turn the screws out another 1/2 turn, but I doubt it will help.