Custom windshield build.

[Guest]

Starting this week I will be attempting to make a windshield for my 700 out of .80" thick plexiglass.
My goal is to make it a somewhat squared off. I'll have a flat piece extending off the top of the gauges and try to angle to side pieces to come to the inside of the bars.


I'm thinking of using some kind of shelving to hold the corners together and gluing them shut while using some kind of support to come out of the bolts holding the gauges on. In a sense building it around my cluster so it looks complete.


The bolts right under the cluster is what I'm trying to figure out what I can use to mount off that to all 3 pieces...



The headlight makes it tricky...
Anyone have any ideas? I really dont want it to stand out and look awkward since I don't have a fairing so nice and small is good to fit the bike.

[Ranger]

If anyone has done this then pictures would be helpful.

[spyug]

Get some thin cardboard or poster board (art supply shop) that you can use as a template. Cut it to fit what you're thinking of and tape it in place while you wander around the bike and check the size and angles. Transfer it to the plexi and cut out the shape. Now comes the fun part, bending to shape.

The easiest way is to build a form out of wood to the general shape of the finished screen. Heat the plexi in the oven until it starts to droop then, using gloves, drape the plexi over the form and gently push it into position and hold it or clamp it. Allow it to cool then attach your brackets and connector hardware.

Alternatively, if you don't want to build a form, then you can heat the areas to be bent with an electric paint stripper and using a suitable hunk of wood with a rounded off edge bend the plexi over it. This works well for screens with a more angular appearance.

For attachment hardware you might need to get creative so I always recommend a trip to the hardware stores to see what can be adapted. I like 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" inch aluminum strip for making brackets.

I made a "duckbill" screen out of ABS for a Yammie I had using the techniques described (heated with the paint gun and bent over a wood form). To attach it I had a bracket coming off the ears holding the headlight and one from the right and left edge to the handlebars. You might try something along that line too.

I'll try and find a pic for you.

Good luck with it. Fairly easy and fun project.

cheers,
Spyug

It might help get some ideas if you look at the fairings on the 83 and up 750 and 1100s ( my avatar). You have the round headlight but that should be no biggy. Check the galleries.

[Ranger]

Thanks, I was thinking of possibly bending the edges into shape with wood and a torch I have on low heat. I'm deffinatly going to be building a mock up out of cardboard but its still the mounting thats got me sratching my head.

[Hammered]

Ive done a bit of thermal forming with different polys. The easiest way is to cut the piece to the size you need and have a sturdy ( ie. plywood of other hard material) form in the shape with any and all bends ready to accept your piece. The "oven" is kinda easy. With 3 or 4 spot lights with heat lamps, place your poly over them. I use a couple of aluminum rods to handle the poly from "oven" to form. Cause hot poly hurts. WITH HEAT RESISTANT GLOVES ON, smooth the poly as fast as you can after placing it on the form. Let cool and youre done.

AS far as mounting, you can buy mounting kits from other manufactures as full kits. I myself like the Slipstream mounting on my Spitfire windshield.

[Ranger]

Ive done a bit of thermal forming with different polys. The easiest way is to cut the piece to the size you need and have a sturdy ( ie. plywood of other hard material) form in the shape with any and all bends ready to accept your piece. The "oven" is kinda easy. With 3 or 4 spot lights with heat lamps, place your poly over them. I use a couple of aluminum rods to handle the poly from "oven" to form. Cause hot poly hurts. WITH HEAT RESISTANT GLOVES ON, smooth the poly as fast as you can after placing it on the form. Let cool and youre done.

AS far as mounting, you can buy mounting kits from other manufactures as full kits. I myself like the Slipstream mounting on my Spitfire windshield.

They don't make the mounting kits I need, I'm trying to match a GSXR style wind deflector as far as angle and hiding everything. Thats why I'm thinking of using the existing bolts that hold the cluster down as the main point and attaching the same mounts you would use to make shelving.

[HiSPL]

Don't use anything with a flame to heat the plexi. You will likely get bubbles as a result. I've done 2 mini screens for my V-strom, and one of them I bubbled by using an oxy-acetylene torch. The second one I used the same torch to heat a large piece of steel plate and laid the plexi on it until it was soft. This was not the most efficient way to apply heat, but I didn't have an oven to use.

If you can get a hold of some par cans (stage lights) with 500 or 1000 watt lamps, you'll be set. You could probably just use one 1000 watter and be fine. They get around 600 degrees at the mouth of the light!

Also, a bandsaw works great to cut with. A jigsaw works too, but you have to go slow, otherwise the edge gets all melty and gooey.

This stuff is great for an edge finish. http://www.eurobumperguard.com/door_edge_guard.html
You can find this stuff at the local pep boys.

[Ranger]

I think I'm going to attempt to make it out of 3 pieces first and use the heat method to kind of bond the edges together for a cleaner look. I have enough plexi to atleast try the easier version first being as the only oven I have to use is my moms 1 week old MayTag oven she got. I doubt me putting something like that in there will land me any loving remarks from her.

[spyug]

I don't think you'll be successfull trying to bond the edges.Heat alone will not do it. Glue would be needed. You will also need some kind of channel to give things rigidity. A bit of flex and the bond will break. It will also be difficult to get a clean joint I would think. Glue can be messy stuff.

I think you're also over thinking the attachment hardware. I think you could use the aformentioned aluminum strap from the "uprights" that hold the clipons to the screen at either side and two shorter strips attached to the headlight ears at the bottom of the screen.

Take that trip to the hardware store for some inspiration. Another interesting place to look would be the bicycle section and hardware section of a store like Walmart as some fittings and things like racks might be adaptable.

With projects like this, you sometimes need to think outside the box so mock up the screen in cardboard, have a couple of brews and ruminate on it as you check it over. Something will come to you.

It will be interesting to see what you come up with. Take a bunch of pics as you go and maybe you can do up a tutorial for Cliff's site.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Cheers,
spyug

[Ranger]

The bike parts I was thinking being I used to work at a bunch of shops around here and still do occasionally.
I was looking at how to bond plexiglass and found a few different things that should work. I've designed a layout that looks much like a canopy for a fast mover (rigid, strong and aerodynamic).
My first intention is to create a support to attach underneath the cluster so that I can mount the center panel and adjust the angle at which I want it to be at. Second, I'm going to use the aluminum brackets as somewhat of a guide on the sides of the panel and create a slight curve effect to minimize the wind from buffering as it comes over the lip at high speed.
After those steps have been taken I then can work on the side panels doing my best to close any gaps that may be on the bottom. The side panels will be glued on the inside with a plexiglass solvent to bond them together (plexiglass weld) and once set I will tape the outsides so just the gap is showing and fill that will a clear adhesive that should set in about an hour so that I can sand it ans polish it to look as one piece. I will then mount small hangers off of my bars on the inside to support the side panels so it will be easy to remove whenever I need to access my wiring.

Of course this is the "plan" and I'll probably adjust as I go but of course, lots of pictures will be taken. Hopefully I can do it once.
So far parts have cost me $10.82 total.

[cowboyup3371]

Good luck. As much as I don't mind doing some things myself, I'm not sure I would tackle this one. But I'd like to keep an eye on this and see how it goes for you. Please make sure you post lots of pictures.

[rustybronco]

Heat Lucite® plexiglass evenly with an infared heat lamp. when it hits around 120 C you can bent it with two fingers! (go on, ask me how I know...)

[jpaul]

I don't think that you'll be able to bond plexiglass well enough to withstand the force of wind buffeting at speed. If you find an adhesive that will do the job, it isn't going to be clear. If you plan on using the bonded pieces to make a form so you can shape your final piece, that will probably work. Lexan (polycarbonate) will be a better material than plexiglass for a windscreen. You may also want to consider coming off of the headlight mounting bolts instead of the instrument cluster. The cluster mounts usuallly have some rubber to decrease vibration. Coming off there might either cause vibration to the instruments or to the windscreen.

[rustybronco]

Lexan (polycarbonate) will be a better material than plexiglass for a windscreen.

The original Windjammer windshields were made of Lucite. Need some pictures of me bending the tar out of one?

Lexan thermoforms around 375 F.

[jpaul]

The original Windjammer windshields were made of Lucite. Need some pictures of me bending the tar out of one?

Lexan thermoforms around 375 F.

I know that plexiglass is easier to work with, but polycarbonates are more durable; they have better flexibility and impact resistance than plexiglass.