Project Trizuki

[7981GS]

After having way too much fun riding yesterday, it was time to do a little work.

I got the adapter plates made, drilled and tapped. Slapped some paint on them for no real reason.
I still need to find the correct shoulder bolts or Allen-head bolts to finish it off.










Eric

[HammerHead]

Eric,

I know you put spacers in the plastic mounting holes so it won't crack the plastic. Right??

Steve

[HammerHead]

The fender looks bitchin.............

[jwhelan65]

Cool stuff! Cant wait to see this finished

[7981GS]

Eric,

I know you put spacers in the plastic mounting holes so it won't crack the plastic. Right??

Steve

10-4

I have changed out all of the fork mounting bolts with grade 10.9 black Allen-head bolts
and am hoping to finish all of the front end in similar black Allen bolts.
The International metric supply store that I deal with doesn't offer black washers but,
I have another supplier that does in grade 10.9
I have to go to both places to get what I am after.
Niether offers shouldered Allen-head black bolts.
And I don't really want to use pan-head Allen-head bolts.
I might have to.

Eric

[7981GS]

Cool stuff! Cant wait to see this finished

I could always ship it down to Joe's Miracle Works if I wanted it to look fantastic.

Eric

[jwhelan65]

I could always ship it down to Joe's Miracle Works if I wanted it to look fantastic.

Eric

Sure! no guarantees on the return time....

[7981GS]

Well the engine only had 16,000 miles on it when he wrecked it and the new/used meter shows only 1,700 miles.
I would have to record the mileage before shipping no doubt.

Eric

[7981GS]

I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for today but got close.
I had to use USS hardened flat washers with the 6 mm grade 8.8 Allen head bolts to hold the fender on.
Had to settle for grade 10.9 fine thread 10 mm bolts and USS hardened washers for the calipers.
I will try to special order Allen head shoulder bolts for the calipers if I can find them.
Still showing the anti-sieze smears as I haven't cleaned it yet.

Some pic's...









I need to get back to work on the handle bars next.

Eric

[spacepirates]

Did I miss what front wheel you are using for this project? I'd be amazed that a triumph caliper bolted directly on a busa fork, and even more that you could find a wheel/rotor combo that fit those forks/calipers with little to no modification.

I'm curious as to how much research for bolt-in parts vs. fabbing you plan on doing (or have done) with the front wheel, axle spacing, forks/triple trees, and the like.

The forks on my '78 Yammy XS750 were pitted, so I decided to replace the front end with a CBR600F2, though I went the lazy route and opted to swap everything forward of the stem (triple tree, forks, wheel, brakes, etc) and sacrifice the balanced aesthetics of having matching wheels for ease of swap. I ended up going with the CBR600F2 because it was available, but I'm starting to regret not getting a front end from a bike with inverted/USD forks.

I only looked at steering stem compatibility though, not fork tube diameter and triple tree compatibility. It'd be a nice trick to cross reference what triple trees fit the steering stem, and then what forks fit those triple trees... But I think the hardest fit to do would be the brake rotors. I never liked the idea of fabbing up brackets for calipers, seems like adding more points of failure to me.

[7981GS]

SP, the rim, rotors and calipers are the stock 2008 Sprint parts.
The calipers merely needed a 2-2.5 mm spacer to center them in the Busa forks. Same bolt pattern!
I miked 20 or so 10 mm flat washers and found a 2.14 mm pair and a 2.15 mm pair.
Spacers had to be made for the Busa's wider forks on the axle to center the Triumph rim.
The Busa and Triumph use the same outside diameter axle with the Busa one being longer and different thread pitch.


Moving on to the next part of the equation.
Not certain yet which way that I am going with the handlebars.
Either clip ons or standard 7/8" bars.
That might be dependent on how I can make the Ducati 750SS fairing work or not.




Today's efforts involved a '79 1000L model and a Sawzall!
After all, the L models were designed to be parts bikes right?

Started with this...



Chopped off the risers and...










More later.

Eric

[spacepirates]

Ah, that is cool that you were able to find parts that interchanged so well! I never would have guessed Triumph brakes would fit Busa forks. crazy.

Any reason why you're debating what bars to use other than looks and feel? I think with a more agressive stance and fairing clipons would look better, but I've always preferred a laid back seating position. Less exposed wrists on cold spring mornings.

Do the different triple trees hit the tank when they are fully left/right? Ever consider a steering dampener?

[7981GS]

I got a little bit done today between other on-going projects.

I drilled and tapped the top tree to accept the risers and the 8 X 70 mm grade 12.9 Allen bolts.
I went down to my favorite, they have everything your heart could desire, metric store and picked up the grade 12.9 Allen bolts for the calipers
and some 8 X 50 mm grade 12.9 Allen bolts to replace the short stock length (8 X 40 mm) lower pinch bolts for the forks.
Also picked up several other Allen head bolts to add to inventory.
$38.00 later, I had another hundred or so fasteners.





I temporarally used a set of GS1100ES bars that I almost sold last month.
They have just enough rise and pull back to be comfortable, tall enough and short enough to accept all of the stock Triumph switchgear.
Of course, I had to grind down the locating tabs on the switches.
More work to do to finish it up, if I am going to use that bar, but at least I can now push the bike around if desired.
Sorry for the Sun getting in the way for the pic's but I was just too lazy to shut the door and cover the windows.








More later...

Eric

[old_skool]

Today's efforts involved a '79 1000L model and a Sawzall!
After all, the L models were designed to be parts bikes right?

Put that sawzall to good use, I think you should cut the frame and hardtail it, then cut the exhaust, throw away any chain gaurd, and you don't need no stinking fenders, and.......keep hating on the L's

[7981GS]

Put that sawzall to good use, I think you should cut the frame and hardtail it, then cut the exhaust, throw away any chain gaurd, and you don't need no stinking fenders, and.......keep hating on the L's

Aren't I supposed to make certain that the bike doesn't run before I start chopping it up and then ask stupid questions like why won't it run, stop, handle?

Eric