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'82 1100E Top End Rebuild

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    '82 1100E Top End Rebuild

    Thanks for welcoming me to this forum. I have a little wrenching experience on vintage Japanese motorcycles and always need cash so I agreed to do some repairs for the owner of an '82 1100E. It's the 16 valve engine. I'm having a really difficult time finding a downloadable manual for it.
    The guy who was riding the bike apparently kept spraying starter fluid in the #1 cylinder to start it and blew the head gasket. Oil was leaking out of the head under the #1 exhaust pipe.
    I will def post some pics if I can. I had to cut the head off a couple of exhaust bolts to get the exhaust off. Took it to a shop to get the bolts extracted and chase the threads on a couple of spark plug holes.
    I'm hoping you all can help me out with some Suzuki GS tips and maybe even some specs as I put her back together.
    Thanks again!
    HoganJr

    #2
    Originally posted by hoganjr View Post
    I'm having a really difficult time finding a downloadable manual for it.

    HoganJr
    Got me a chuckle out of this. You obviously haven't searched once you found the forum because if you had, you would find literally hundreds of reference to this website...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Got me a chuckle out of this. You obviously haven't searched once you found the forum because if you had, you would find literally hundreds of reference to this website...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
      Many times the hardest thing to know is what you don't know. Now if you are not even looking well..........

      Comment


        #4
        thanks for the link. I found the manual I need.

        HoganJr

        Comment


          #5
          I got my top end kit today and borrowed a valve spring compressor from a friend. But the tool is not gonna work. I think I know what I need...one of those "C-clamp-kinda" tools. I'd love to hear from somebody who has removed and replaced springs on one of these motors. Is there a specific tool I need or can I get a universal tool that will work?

          Thanks.

          HoganJr

          Comment


            #6
            your gonna need one like this
            Schnitz Valve Spring Compressor Kit for motorcycles, ATV, side by sides, dirt bikes, sleds and watercraft.
            My stable
            84 GSX1100EFG-10.62 @ 125 mph 64'' W/B.
            85 GS1150-9.72@146mph stock W/B.
            88 GSXR1100-dragbike 9.18@139.92mph/5.68@118mph.
            98 Bandit 1200-9.38@146mph/6.02@121mph.
            90 Suzuki GS 1425cc FBG Pro Stock chassis 5.42@124mph
            06 GSXR750 10.44@135mph
            00 Honda elite 80 pit bike

            Comment


              #7
              I have heard of people using a large C-clamp from Harbor Freight plus an oxygen sensor socket (or just cut your own slit into an old deep-well socket) as a poor-man's spring compressor. Haven't tried this myself, but it's on my todo list.

              Also, some auto parts stores will rent you a spring compressor.

              Also, if the engine will be apart for some time and you just want to get the valves free for now and worry about assembly later, I have seen people put a deep well socket over the retainers and bang it with a mallet to get the retainers free. (This is more risky though, as if you're not careful you can lose them little buggers very easily.)
              Charles
              --
              1979 Suzuki GS850G

              Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by eil View Post
                I have heard of people using a large C-clamp from Harbor Freight plus an oxygen sensor socket (or just cut your own slit into an old deep-well socket) as a poor-man's spring compressor. Haven't tried this myself, but it's on my todo list.

                Also, some auto parts stores will rent you a spring compressor.

                Also, if the engine will be apart for some time and you just want to get the valves free for now and worry about assembly later, I have seen people put a deep well socket over the retainers and bang it with a mallet to get the retainers free. (This is more risky though, as if you're not careful you can lose them little buggers very easily.)
                I use the socket and mullet option, with the addition of a small magnet in the socket.... No losing them little buggers.
                Current Bikes.... 81,1230Kat, 86,GSXR1100, 86,RG500, :D
                The 80`s - Back in the days when men looked like women, women dressed like whores and the music F@#KING ROCKED! http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/friday.gif

                Comment


                  #9
                  reinstalling the head!

                  this has been a real education for me. I did the valves on my GL1000 a couple years ago and don't remember struggling with it. I rented a valve spring compressor from the auto parts store and it doesn't work without some kind of adaptor.
                  I pulled apart the tool my buddy loaned me. The one that looks like a gear or pulley puller. I lay a little bar across the "fork" part of that tool and push down. My wife sticks the magnet in there and pulls out the keepers. To put them back together I push down again and she guides the keepers back into place. Works pretty good and it's a great ab workout.
                  I'm ready to reinstall this head.
                  Any tips or tricks or pitfalls to avoid in installing the head gasket...camshafts...timing gears...
                  Clearly I need a little help!

                  HoganJr

                  Comment


                    #10
                    mostly finished

                    having a little trouble getting the owner to come up with the cash he committed to pay me for this job so it is still in my garage. I started it and adjusted the idle and ran it a couple of miles the day I finished it (a couple of weeks ago). It seems to run ok except it races up pretty high when I turn up the idle to where it probably should be and will die sometimes after a few minutes if I back the idle off to where it won't surge. Nothing that a carb sync probably wouldn't cure, except that he is running individual pods on the intakes and one of the carb-to-head boots is all buggered up on the carb end. The owner hasn't agreed to pay me back for a new one and I'm thinking it is pointlless to try to tune the bike with a leaking boot.
                    Maybe, just for my own prides sake in doing a good job I should buy the boot, install it, sync the carbs and make it run right.
                    My question: is there a cheap, DIY-kinda fix or replacement for a boot with a buggered up end?
                    This bike is really too nice to be going down the road like this.

                    hoganJr

                    Comment


                      #11
                      just buy a good used boot...buggered??? i don't get what you mean.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        the rubber is split and coming apart across the groove where the clamp goes on the carb end. The parts store where I deal says they have no used boots for sale. I thought maybe this was a common thing and some of you GS guys had developed a cheap and easy fix.

                        HoganJr

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yes, it is a common thing. The cheap and easy fix is to buy a new boot. The correct and easy fix is to buy four new boots. Thankfully the intake boots on these engines are not as expensive as the 8-valve ones.
                          Charles
                          --
                          1979 Suzuki GS850G

                          Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by hoganjr View Post
                            the rubber is split and coming apart across the groove where the clamp goes on the carb end. The parts store where I deal says they have no used boots for sale. I thought maybe this was a common thing and some of you GS guys had developed a cheap and easy fix.

                            HoganJr

                            i have MANY GS1100/1150 parts...i'm just east of richmond In.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              oh,
                              and if a person uses automotive type clamps....they will cut the boot's every time.

                              Comment

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