1980 GS1100LT Cleanup

[Rob S.]

It is a 16 valve DOHC engine and not sure what the exact cc is....carbs and engine is stock.

16 valves - it's got to be the same beast in the '81, '82 and '83 E models. What I've got. Variously known as the 1074 or 1075cc.

That engine, in the non-L version, (don't know if it was called an E yet) was Cycle World magazine's fastest production motorcycle in the world in '80 & '81. In '82, it was just barely edged out by the KAW GPz 1100.

Those were the days...

[LOTO]

16 valves - it's got to be the same beast in the '81, '82 and '83 E models. What I've got. Variously known as the 1074 or 1075cc.

That engine, in the non-L version, (don't know if it was called an E yet) was Cycle World magazine's fastest production motorcycle in the world in '80 & '81. In '82, it was just barely edged out by the KAW GPz 1100.

Those were the days...

My younger brother had an 1100e and I believe it was an 81

[Rob S.]

My younger brother had an 1100e and I believe it was an 81

The air-cooled muscle bikes...I hate radiators (exceptions made for Goldwings and V-Max's ).

[LOTO]

Had another ground issue with the brake lights but was able to track it down pretty quickly.



Insured, licensed, and had a 40 mile shakedown cruise on Monday and I still can't believe it but she runs great at all speeds so far and I set the pilot screws at 2.5 turns (360 degree turns) out from lightly seated and haven't had to touch them since. The speedometer cable did snap about a mile from home but 39 years use out of it was not bad...went ahead and ordered a new one as well as a tach cable too.


I'm going to leave the windshield fairing off till it cools down and no long trips planned till then. Picked up a Sena 3s for 78 bucks and could come in handy at times....mainly for GPS audio and possibly an incoming call..not much for music when riding.


Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions and have a Great Fourth Of July!!!!!!!



best

[LOTO]

About a week ago I started my GS and the battery (new) sounded low when cranking....rode it a few miles then returned home and shut it off then tried to start and battery was dead. I fully charged the battery, started my GS, and had 11.4 volts with engine at idle (Southwire Digital Multimeter). I then followed the "Testing The Stator" guide instructions(Thank you BassCliff) and saw that one of the stator legs resistance was zero ohms. I went ahead and put new connection end on the 3 stator output/rectifier input wires and once completed I had an ohm reading between all 3 points...started my GS and if I remember right I had around 12.7 volts at idle.

I have a very, very slight oil leak and it is coming from the underside of the engine and doesn't drip unless engine is running and even then I can't get it to drip at idle...had an old mirror around and that works great for inspecting the underside.


I've ridden close to 500 miles since my rebuild and I'm getting more comfortable riding after a 10 year lapse from riding...one thing for sure is I have MUCH more respect for the power of my 1100 than I had in the 80's when I purchased it.


Thanks for all the advice and help throughout my rebuild.
hoist best

[alke46]

This is good news. Now you can start making plans to join us in Farmington, Mo. on Sept. 19 through 22. Riders group up in small groups and enjoy all of that area that is possible.

You will find riders of varying levels so you can enjoy any style you wish.

Check out the "2019 Dave Davis Memorial Rally Sept. 19 - 22 Farmington, Mo." It's in the GS Meeting Place forum. (I would link it if I knew how)

[LOTO]

This is good news. Now you can start making plans to join us in Farmington, Mo. on Sept. 19 through 22. Riders group up in small groups and enjoy all of that area that is possible.

You will find riders of varying levels so you can enjoy any style you wish.

Check out the "2019 Dave Davis Memorial Rally Sept. 19 - 22 Farmington, Mo." It's in the GS Meeting Place forum. (I would link it if I knew how)

Ill check the Rally out. Farmington is about 3 house from me but our son lives about an hour from Farmington.....I have a lot going on the next couple of months though.

[LOTO]

My fuel gauge does not work and that is on my winter list to do but....last week I was riding and engine starts cutting out and eventually dies and l coasted into a parking lot. I tried to start the engine and would not start or fire so thought I was out of fuel even though I only had around 75 miles on the odometer since last fill up. Luckily a friend was behind me and took me to get fuel and I added a gallon, choked the engine and it fired up. I went to gas station right away and filled up and it only took 1.7 gallons...odd I thought since I have a 4.7 gal tank.

Filled up the tank this morning and took a trip to a town about 70 miles away and I planned on putting at least 100 miles on the odometer and then fill up and see how many gallons it took. Made the 70 mile trip and was returning when at 75 miles on the odometer the engine starts sputtering like I am out of gas. I coast to a driveway and try to start and sounds out of fuel. After a few choice words and scratching my head I looked in the tank and there was plenty of fuel in the tank so I pulled the choke and cranked her over and after several seconds the engine started sputtering and came to life. I then drove 5 miles back to get fuel and had no problems but the tank only took 2 gallons to fill....drive the 70 miles home and no problems.

Petcock is OEM and still almost new and tank does not appear to have any rust or debris in it but one thought is that the screen over petcock gas tube is dirty but that does not explain why the engine stopped and then would start.
is is possible that the gas cap seals tight like a vapor lock and after I open the tank there is then enough air to work again?

odd that both times this happened it was right at 75 miles on odometer

[jsandidge]

Maybe you have a plugged vent in the gas cap. If air can't get in, after a while fuel can't get out.

[LOTO]

Maybe you have a plugged vent in the gas cap. If air can't get in, after a while fuel can't get out.

I didn’t know there was a vent in the cap so I’ll have to check it out...thanks for the suggestion

[LOTO]

Intersting design on the gas cap vent.....cleaned all the little openings and hope this takes care of the problem. Replacing rubber seals/rings might be added to the winter to do list if I can find the parts.


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