1980 GS850GL kinda rebuilding one bolt at a time.

[Uncamitzi]

my first effort to document what I've been doing.. I'm sure I'll get better...

[Grimly]

Also, has anyone replaced the OEM switch with something available that claims to be a Universal headlight/turn signal/ horn switch from ebay or amazon? sigh

My fave go-to source is the GS500, which was in production until relatively recently and there are many thousands of low milage examples out there being broken for spares. A slight bit of re-wiring to mate the switch unit with your own harness, of course.
My other fave is the Honda Deauville (NTV700); again, many low-mile donors ready and willing to surrender their brake and clutch controls and switches.

[Uncamitzi]

My fave go-to source is the GS500, which was in production until relatively recently and there are many thousands of low milage examples out there being broken for spares. A slight bit of re-wiring to mate the switch unit with your own harness, of course.
My other fave is the Honda Deauville (NTV700); again, many low-mile donors ready and willing to surrender their brake and clutch controls and switches.

I ended up finding a donor switch at the boneyard from an old GS1100, and rebuilt the switch from the contact board out to the wires. Cleaned and polished the contacts. Everything works as it should now.

[Grimly]

I tend to go more for relatively fresh examples nowadays, as I've been let down by aged plastics inside switches. Parts just fail through fatigue, and some of them weren't designed for a long life anyway.

[Uncamitzi]

I'm getting excited. Weather has improved. I have gotten my carbs all back together with stock jets re-installed, adjusted the floats and did a bench sync. All the air screws have been replaced and are out at 2.5 turns. Ordered the airbox snorkel, it will be here by Friday. Checked the clearances on the valves. Found one out of spec and replaced with spare shim that I've collected (whew!). My fuel tank has been powder coated and looks great. I will also be replacing some of the old stock electrical connectors in lieu of some new water tight connectors. New (to me) series R/R and recent new stator, turn signal delay seems to be working with the used relay from the boneyard. New AGM battery fully charged. I know I shouldn't be overly optimistic because of past disappointments... but by damn..... there's light at the end of the tunnel...

[Uncamitzi]

Odd casualty of a short test ride yesterday.... Went down to the cycle shop to pick up a oil filter... on my return trip, about 1.5 miles away from my house, the throttle cable broke. Luckily there was a motorcycle specific free parking spot right there... so, knowing what the problem was I walked home... loaded up my scooter with the tools I would need and rode back to the spot... removed the seat and tank to get to the linkage and replaced the throttle cable in about 10 minutes.. buttoned everything back up and rode the scooter back home.. caught my breath and started walking back to the bike... (in the rain) got to the bike (this is the point of the story) started it up and headed home to tighten and check my work... funny.. the left turn signal isn't working no light... the right one works fine... but my high beam won't work either... Checked the bulbs and both turn signal lights are good as is the headlight lamp. Checking contacts..... so far haven't found the problem......
color me... blue.

[Uncamitzi]

I found that problem, while I had the tank off and was rerouting the new throttle cable I pulled one of the old connectors apart... Then the rain came...... hiding from the storm now...

[Uncamitzi]

Connector problems. sigh.... I have been replacing the connectors on the bike with waterproof connectors that are a bit larger than the factory connectors. The connectors under the tank have been the last ones still using the factory connectors.. but... they are old cracked and a tad melted... I keep losing my turn signals... today on yet another test run they stopped working. After pulling the tank to see which connector failed, and finding it, and before reinstalling the tank I thought I'd look at the spark plugs.. #1 #2 #4 all look great... #3 is fluffy with carbon build up... but now... I've got no spark.. on any cylinder.... So back to troubleshootin... Shakes head and wanders back to the garage...

[Uncamitzi]

No spark. With the condition of some of the connections I've started replacing all the melted and brittle connectors. This is the ignition connector in the Headlight bucket... I have a suspicion that the igniter may have bit the dust... but I want to get all the wiring smoothed out. I've found the test for the igniter on Basscliff's site. One of the problems I do see in replacing the factory connectors with the waterproof connectors is that when and if I have to replace a unit like the switches or the relays, I will have to replace the connectors that they come with. The other challenge is that the new connectors take up a bit more room than the factory's.

IMG_20190424_151411821.jpg

[Steve]

I have never felt the need to install waterproof connectors. Although I do end up riding in wet conditions at times, I have never had electrical problems due to the water. Usually, simply installing fresh OEM-style connectors will work just fine. I find it to be less work, too. You might do well to invest in a set of connectors and crimpers from Vintage Connections.

.

[Uncamitzi]

I have never felt the need to install waterproof connectors. Although I do end up riding in wet conditions at times, I have never had electrical problems due to the water. Usually, simply installing fresh OEM-style connectors will work just fine. I find it to be less work, too. You might do well to invest in a set of connectors and crimpers from Vintage Connections.

.

I bought a couple of connector kits (Automotive type waterproof).. So I'll use those.. but I did take note of the link. Thanks! I went through every single connection from the headlight bucket to the taillight. Cleaned up some of the mis-wiring and crossovers that the PO had left for me to discover. I now understand the wiring in the headlight bucket MUCH better. I noticed that my turn signals work better and are brighter than they were. Cleaned and replaced every spot of corrosion and heat damage that I could find. That included the connections from the stator to the R/R and the connections to the fuse box. From the signal generator to the ignitor box I put dielectric grease on all connections and checked the solder points wherever I had added a new connector. I used my multimeter to check continuity and resistance where it was given (coils, signal generator) Voltage to the lamps at the front and the back are VERY close to battery voltage... But it didn't start.

No spark....................
So, I checked all my connections and connectors again.. LITERALLY the LAST wire I was checking before I ordered up a new igniter box were the wires (blue and green) from the signal generator....

guess what?

The connector (soldered) on the brand new waterproof connector.. had pushed back out of it's locked position.. There is a red retainer over the metal female receiver that had pulled away from the post.

I pushed that in, heard the click... reached up and pushed the start button...

and it started up and ran so smoothly I almost cried.. (I didn't... but I could have)

So tomorrow it's going to rain... I will get the tank back on and maybe... just maybe I'll get to ride it this weekend.

[Uncamitzi]

I have to laugh...or I would cry. Put the tank on last night checked to see if the petcock was in the run position and not prime..... went to bed ... bright sunny day this morning and I went out to check and get ready for a ride....
Gas was leaking from the carbs and from #1 spark plug hole (I had not tightened it up last night was going to check it this morning) SO.. took the tank off and the gas was flowing out of the petcock.. even when turned back and forth it just kept coming... plugged the outflow and put a fuel hose on it...... Now I'm changing the oil and letting it air out.. I have a spare petcock and will swap it out and check it's function... I am concerned that the float valve didn't shut off the flow... shouldn't it have stopped the flow into the cylinder?
no ride today...
sad:

[jsandidge]

Float valves aren't designed to hold back fuel like that. If they could, you wouldn't need the petcock.

[Uncamitzi]

Float valves aren't designed to hold back fuel like that. If they could, you wouldn't need the petcock.

Thank you. That is what I thought... but I thought I would ask just in case... (see my other thread about the carb rebuild....lol)

[Uncamitzi]

I'm an idiot.

I had my gas tank powder coated. I did NOT clean the tank before I installed it. One of the reasons my petcock stopped working was sand... lots of sand. through the petcock filter ... I now need to re-remove the carbs and make sure they float valve filters are not full of sand also.. So basically back to square one.

Like I said. I'm an obvious idiot..

I delivered the tank stripped down and shiny. I didn't even think the powder coater guy sand blasted the tank .... I should have checked... I hope there's not too much damage...