Oil coolers

[Bill Lloyd]

Speaking of oil coolers, I had a Lockhart oil cooler on my GS850G back in the '80s, and there's one on my current '81 GS850G. But I also have an '82 GS1100G with no cooler. Lockhart has long been out of the motorcycle oil cooler business, apparently, and I have no luck whatever finding an oil cooler for the 1100. Does anyone here have any notion of where such a thing might be found? It seems that a huge stumbling block is the adaptor necessary to fit the hoses to the engine base.

-- Bill

[80GS750]

yes, you will need the adapter to make a cooler work....

i got an earls cooler from summitt

it rocks! they are really pricey though, and you have to get the expensive -6an adapters for it too....

[doctorgonzo]

I wish there was a definitive thread on this topic. I have a recently acquired cooler off an 1150. So far I have gleaned that I need to get the filter cover off an 1150 as well. Get a mounting bracket made (the 1150 mounting bracket would probably bolt right up, but they are shown out of stock everywhere I've looked), and somehow fabricate a new cover for where the oil sensor connects to the engine. BUT do both lines hook there on the new fabricated cover.... does one go to the oil gallery bolt on the right of the engine.... never really been able to totally figure it out.

[Nessism]

There is lots of information on oil coolers in the archives - I know because I did a lot of research recently in assembling a cooler kit for my 850.

A few things I learned are that for 8 valve engines you need to pick up the oil at the oil presure sensor plate. An Aussi GSR member named Terry sells an adaptor plate for about $110. You can also make your own from a block of aluminum (that's what I did) or even mod a late model oil pressure sensor plate that has a blind port already cast in. PM me if you want to discuss details.

The 16 valve GS engines, like the 1000/1100, have ports on the front bottom of the engine that you can use to get the oil for the cooler. I don't know all the details but this is the model you need the 1150 oil filter cover for - not the 8 valve engines.

I used an Earl's cooler with -6AN fittings/lines. Seems to work nicely so far. Rubber mounting the cooler is important since they might crack due to vibration otherwise.

I'll try to post some photos later but if you do a search on "oil cooler" my bike will show up.

Good luck.

[Suzuki mad]

Just pulled an oil cooler off a GS1000S. Wasn't attached to any part of the enginebra just to the front of the frame. Looked good but no oil.

I'm going to throw it in the rubish, along with the boyer bransen CDI box thats been left on her.

Suzuki mad.

[posplayr]

8V v.s. 16V Know which one you are reading about

Nesseim , you beat me to it; yes there is plenty of info but it might be difficult to unfurl. Agree !

I'm doing 16V oil cooler with a top end oiler on the GS1100ED. 1150 cooler, new lines and fitings, 1150 cover. Ward top end oiler with a modified fitting as shown in the thread below.

The first thing to do when reading about oil coolers is to make sure if the discussion is on 8 v or 16 v motors. You will get less conflicting advice that way. The oil plumbing is similar but not the same and the rear adapter is very different.

If you have an 8 valve motor read this link

Cooler Add-on for 8 Valve engines using Oil Filter Cover

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=122837

This link if for 16V top end oilers but it explains how the oil flow works for the 16V and I believe touches of the 8 v differences.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=120828

In a nut shell:

For the 16V motors:

* Oil cooler needs to be routed like the 1150 from the banjo bolts near the front filter cover. Oil flow out the right side and returns to the left side.

* Filter cover needs to be swapped out to a (84-86) GS1150E or modified to block off the right side port. But the new cover for $30 it is still available.


* Also you need to over fill your crankcase with MORE oil to allow for the volume in the cooler. If the lines are mounted on the bottom of the cooler, then all the oil will flow back out of the filter when engine is not running and your site glass on the side should read close/over the top depending on how big your cooler is. If the cooler is mounted upside down, the filler on the top then the cooler oil doesn't flow out when the engine is off and so your site glass is not upset as much (only the oil in the lines). The 120 degree bend fittings for an upside down install are pricey..

* That is all that is required for the cooler; Might suggest adding 750 or Ward gears (on the oil pump behind the clutch; two gears) to improve the flow to the cooler.

* to add an 16V top end oiler as well. Read the link above

For 8 V:

* need to construct a oil passage diversion from the center of the rear block to route most if not all oil to the cooler in the front.

* Need to reroute the oil return back from the cooler to the back cover.

The above is accomplished with a custom made machined block (like made by a member here from Australia for $100??) or out of off the shelf fittings like Nisseim did it. Not this block is only required for the 8V not the 16V motors.

Front filter cover doesn't have to change as far as I know for 8V motors.

I dont know anything about top end oilers for 8V motors(would guess it works the same way if you can get it plumbed right). or the oil pump gear mods for 8V(question posed to Rapid Ray and he did not know as he works on 16V 1100 and 1150 engines mostly).

With this summary you should be able to go back and know what you are reading and sort out the wheat from the chaff.

read Nessism's link he has actually done a 8V motor filter.

Nessism feel free to add or correct anything I overlooked. You an I were researching the same nearly the same time.

Posplayr

[rustybronco]

It seems that a huge stumbling block is the adaptor necessary to fit the hoses to the engine base.
-- Bill

That may not be to much of a problem, the gs850 I brought back has a kerker oil cooler on it and in the box for it are some extra adaptors. let me see if one can be used with the oil pressure gauge.
Pictures can be taken if needed.

[doctorgonzo]

Thanks Pos what I needed. I had seen that thread on a search, but good to know that is the config I need. Basically a send and a return both on the plate where the oil sensor mounts.

[posplayr]

Keep it simple but not too simple

Basically a send and a return both on the plate where the oil sensor mounts.

Yes, but the 8V flow from the center of the cover (supplying the cooler) has to be separated inside the rear cover adapter from the flow returning from the cooler. Otherwise there will be no flow to the cooler. That is what the "special" adapter plate is for as the 8V engines were not originally designed for coolers like the 16V engines.

The special 8V adapter is to capture most of the oil flow from the oil pump and route it to the cooler and then return back the oil supply to the engine (and keep them separate).

On the 16V this is accomplished inside of the engine and the separation of feed (right side feeds cooler) and return (left side returns oil from cooler) is accomplished at the front banjo bolts.

If you try to experiment on the 8V motor see my warning about trying to return oil top the filter cover. You Will basically be making your oil filter inoperable.

STRONG SUGGESTION for 8V motors.
Use a known solution or make sure you understand how the oil flows (see the schematics) in an 8V motor and how it will flow after your cooler mods. The threads abiove should help in that.

Pos

[doctorgonzo]

And there is a member in Australia who can fab up the plate? Any other sources you know of, or his user name. I'll try a search as well.

[Hap Call]

Everyone, be advised that there is a difference within the 16v motor family. The first generation ('80-'82) 16v 750 does not have the same oiling system as the 16v 1100/1150 motor and requires a special oil filter cover to install a oil cooler. The 750 has plain bearing, thus it has a "high" prerssure oil system where as the 1100/1150 has roller bearing and a low prerssure oil system.

As far as oil coolers go, I use an oil cooler off a Buell XB12 and it mounts to the side of the motor so that air flow to the head is not restricted

Hap

[BassCliff]

And there is a member in Australia who can fab up the plate? Any other sources you know of, or his user name. I'll try a search as well.

Hi Mr. doctorgonzo,

Search the member list for "terry" and you'll find him. That's his forum user name.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[rustybronco]

Pictures of SPARE adapter.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/pict2256.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/pict2258.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/pict2259.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/pict2260.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/pict2255.jpg

so where do I mail it to?

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Bill Loyd,

I found this. Perhaps Mr. terry can fix you up with one of his oil cooler adapters.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=101412




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Nessism]

Pictures of SPARE adapter.

so where do I mail it to?

Good looking adapter there. I'll take it if the other guy passes.

One of the key elements of a good adapter is the protrusion off the bottom that goes down into the oil cavity and grabs the oil coming up from the feed port. This oil is sent straight over to the cooler, and after the oil comes back, its dumped back into the oil cavity where it goes on its way feeding the engine.

On the stock configuration the spring loaded plunger in the pressure sensor comes down and seals off the oil port thus creating a ground path for the oil light warning circuit. With oil burbling up out of the port the plunger is pushed out of the way thus breaking the ground path - causing the oil light to go off.