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Intake boot removal

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    Intake boot removal

    It's really how to get the bolts out that have been holding on my intake boots for over 20 years but this is "intake boot bolt specific" I got the top ones out had to use vice grips. Even if you rip the rubber off there is still an aluminum lip that gets in your way of the bottom bolts. Grab a hammer and a stick, chisel, any beating tool and beat the intake boot counter clockwise (lefty loosey and don't slip!) only needed the vise grips on the first one there rest came out with just a screw drivers pretty easy.

    If someone has already posted this just ignore me. Just got excited and wanted to post this because anytime I have to work on something for the first time with bike once I get the original screws/bolts loosened is feels like I'm 99% done.

    #2
    Just went through this on mine. Go down to the hardware store and buy Allen head bolts to replace the phillips with.

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      #3
      yeah i decided to under go this at like 10:30 at night. Didn't figure walmart would have them but I thought I'd give them a shot. Ya they don't. Have to wait for home depot to open in the morning. It's like the only place to get anything metric in this town.

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        #4
        yeah just went through the same thing. got all the screws out but two on the bottom. thank goodness for vice grips and pb blaster. now have allen bolts in mine.
        I didnt do it I swear !!

        --------------------------
        http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

        http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

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          #5
          Forget about Home Depot having them, either.

          Go online to McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com

          I used stainless hex head bolts rather than socket head cap screws (Allens).
          Easier to remove and use a standard 10mm socket and the head won't strip out.

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            #6
            It might be your area. I picked them up from home depot this morning been driving around what I difference. Even though I still need to sync my carbs. Anyway... stainless would be better. I guess it's just user pref. I like the cap screw cause I've never stripped one unless I'm mixing standard and metric. Same with a hex head really I guess.

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              #7
              I used 10 mm stainless hex bolts on mine, easier to use a torque wrench on.
              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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                #8
                Just done them on mine. A well documented repair....

                Replaced them with GS(X)1100EZ clutch case set bolts. :-)

                Suzuki mad

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                  #9
                  My local HD had Parkerized steel ones but not stainless. I wasn't going to put stuff on there that was going to rust, and for just a few cents more I got stainless.
                  My local Mom and Pop old fashioned hardware store had some, but not enough, so I went with the hex head bolts.

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                    #10
                    I wound up with black parkerized allens.
                    I figured I could always use them elsewhere if they didn't work out.
                    The black just blends in good.

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