Stainless Steel bolts: always a good option?

[Guest]

Inspired by the previous thread re: alan vs phillips, I was curious what the opinion of Stainless Steel vs other materials.

My local hardware store stocks a fantastic array of stainless steel allen bolts, washers, nuts, etc. But is going to SS always a good thing? Are there any conditions (heat, chemical) on a bike that they would not be suited to?

thanks,

[Agemax]

Inspired by the previous thread re: alan vs phillips, I was curious what the opinion of Stainless Steel vs other materials.

My local hardware store stocks a fantastic array of stainless steel allen bolts, washers, nuts, etc. But is going to SS always a good thing? Are there any conditions (heat, chemical) on a bike that they would not be suited to?

thanks,

best option available, just make sure you coat them with anti seize before assembly

[almarconi]

I can't think of any reason not to use stainless fasteners.

[knowyourenemy66]

Always use anti-seize! I use stainless on all my bikes--never had a problem

[mustangflyr]

Stainless

For OEM type stainless fasteners try www,rimfire-eng.com, he has a selection. Also use only copper based anti seize compound not lead based.

[simon kuether]

Don't use stainless for any "structural" bolts (engine mounts etc ) . I use zinc plated high tensile for these .

Cheers , Simon .

[Nessism]

Don't use stainless for any "structural" bolts (engine mounts etc ) . I use zinc plated high tensile for these .

Cheers , Simon .

Agree.

Common hardware grade 18-8 stainless is about 20% weaker than the typical alloy steel bolt Suzuki used with a "7" imprinted on the head.

[ACR]

So much good info so quickly! Thanks all.

[wacky941]

Don't forget that sometimes the manufacturer specifies the make-up of hardware because it is used as the sacrificial metal. Stainless is much more resistant to corrosion than carbon steel and therefore whatever metal the stainless hardware is attached to now becomes the sacrificial metal, in some cases disimilar metals will actually cause corrosion.
In other words which part are you willing to have corrode first?

Stainless steel sounds good and looks good but is it really worth it?

[koolaid_kid]

If you decide to go stainless, try buying a kit. They make them that replace the screws on all the sidecovers (clutch, stator, ignition, shifter and such).
Ebay vendors sell them, and I think Z1Enterprises does also (their site is down at the moment). Since you don't list your bike, it is difficult to be more specific.
When I rebuilt my carbs, I went with stainless allen head bolts. I found it cheaper to purchase bulk at mcmasterscarr and just use what I needed.

[Macguyver]

Don't forget that sometimes the manufacturer specifies the make-up of hardware because it is used as the sacrificial metal. Stainless is much more resistant to corrosion than carbon steel and therefore whatever metal the stainless hardware is attached to now becomes the sacrificial metal, in some cases disimilar metals will actually cause corrosion.
In other words which part are you willing to have corrode first?

Stainless steel sounds good and looks good but is it really worth it?

No worries there, just go to a marine supply store and buy their basic small zinc block. Bolt it onto the bike where it can get wet now and then, and no more worries about a corroding frame.

When I restored a car, I would always bolt up a zinc block under the rear bumper. The zinc will be the sacrificial anode, and they are cheap enough to replace. Last time I bought one, it was around $10 for a fairly large one, much bigger than I would put on a bike.

When installing the block, make sure there is a good mechanical and electrical connection between the block and the frame, and you are done.

Lightly scuff the zinc to get any shipping oil off of it before bolting it up. There are many sizes and styles of blocks available, ranging from square/rectangular to smooth oval and round ones. I am planning on bolting one up with the center stand after I repaint my exhaust.

I hope this helps,

[wacky941]

No worries there, just go to a marine supply store and buy their basic small zinc block. Bolt it onto the bike where it can get wet now and then, and no more worries about a corroding frame.

When I restored a car, I would always bolt up a zinc block under the rear bumper. The zinc will be the sacrificial anode, and they are cheap enough to replace. Last time I bought one, it was around $10 for a fairly large one, much bigger than I would put on a bike.

When installing the block, make sure there is a good mechanical and electrical connection between the block and the frame, and you are done.

Lightly scuff the zinc to get any shipping oil off of it before bolting it up. There are many sizes and styles of blocks available, ranging from square/rectangular to smooth oval and round ones. I am planning on bolting one up with the center stand after I repaint my exhaust.

I hope this helps,

Excellent advice.