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Body fillers-primers-sanding grits and other sundry items
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Thanks Dale...Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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takes a while to digest, as there is a lot of info there to absorb. Fortunately in SB applying paint/bondo the temperature is not nearly as much of a concern. But in ND and the winter you gotta know what you are doing. Kinda funny/kinda sad story about the corvette with the new front end.
It was good to read about the bondo work. He generally always applies to bare metal. I sand off all the paint and then just before applying sand it smooth and wipe off with a wet rag, but immediately blow it off and set in the sun to dry. Then I take some 40-60 grit and cross hatch to scratch the metal being careful to also get inside of the low spots and anyplace where I will be feathering the bondo. You can usually just blow this off (rather than get it wet again) as the deep scratches don't really sand they just scratch(i.e. no dust)Last edited by posplayr; 05-17-2013, 02:55 PM.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15154
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by posplayr View PostBut in ND and the winter you gotta know what you are doing. Kinda funny/kinda sad story about the corvette with the new front end.
What I found best was not to use cardboard for mixing filler on. I never thought about it drawing the solvents of of the resin. That, and moisture on the metals surfaces; I wonder if could could be one of the reasons tank liners fail? The liner in my fuel tank was flaking off and it had a light coating of rust on it and the tanks surface. ??
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostIf it was winter in ND, I'd be applying it in the house.
What I found best was not to use cardboard for mixing filler on. I never thought about it drawing the solvents of of the resin. That, and moisture on the metals surfaces; I wonder if could could be one of the reasons tank liners fail? The liner in my fuel tank was flaking off and it had a light coating of rust on it and the tanks surface. ??
If you have ever used Por-15 rust inhibitor paint you learn quickly what is dry and what is still wet in the pores. The stuff bubbles so as a general rule with that stuff wash today spray tommorow.
I have to say, with the modern water proof bondos and two part primers, body work has never been easier. Especially with how easy the clears are to work with.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15154
- Marysville, Michigan
I wouldn't use wax impregnated anything when it comes body and paint work. Either mix it on a piece of Lexan, some small plastic cutting board or what what some of the body shops like to use, a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet stock. If the filler gets a bit crusty on it, you just hit it with the DA.
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostIf the filler gets a bit crusty on it, you just hit it with the DA.'85 GS550L - SOLD
'85 GS550E - SOLD
'82 GS650GL - SOLD
'81 GS750L - SOLD
'82 GS850GL - trusty steed
'80 GS1100L - son's project bike
'82 GS1100G - SOLD
'81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostDual action sander.
Jim, a correction to what I said earlier. Wax is used as a parting or mold release agent for fiberglass work.
Jim
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SVSooke
Back in the day of lacquer paint finishes on custom cars, painters would color-sand the paint after it dried and repaint to get all the sand scratch shrinkage out. This process was repeated until the paint didn't show the sanding marks. They used to say, "This car has 20 coats of hand-rubbed lacquer." "Hand-rubbed" was the term in some areas for color-sanding by hand. The thinner in the paint was stronger, and took longer to evaporate than the thinner used in the primer. When you painted lacquer paint, the thinner would soak into the primer and cause it to shrink back into the scratches in the body work. That is why the process was repeated until scratches didn't show in the final coat.
I believe this is the answer to the question you asked me a while ago Dale.I wasn't sure why you sanded lacquer down,now we both know.
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