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81 GS750E Really hard pull clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdvorchak
  • Start date Start date
J

jdvorchak

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When I got this bike the clutch cable was almost broken but I don't remember it being hard to pull. Although I didn't pull it that much getting the bike to run first few times. I have since replaced the clutch cable with a new aftermarket, following the same cable routing and removed the clutch cover to replace the clutch cover gasket. After I got it all together I notice the clutch is really hard to pull. Lever, perch and cable have all been lubed.

Now my question. Not knowing better when I pulled the clutch cover I removed the clevis pin from the clutch actuator arm but didn't make note of it's position. I don't know why but I didn't. Now that spline shaft has a screw on the bottom and that engages the clutch release rack. My question, is it possible I didn't index that thing correctly when I put it together? The FSM makes no mention of indexing only that the screw portion engage the rack, which it does. The position of that arm looks good in that the cable pulls straight on and the cable was easy to adjust for free play.

I guess I can pull that cover again and make sure nothing is binding but the clutch action, on riding, seems normal with no hint of grabbing or slipping and free play is good. It is just godzilla hard to pull. My 33 year old son even mentioned that after a 2 mile ride today that his left hand hurt.

Any thought?
 
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That is about where I have it. I've tried 3 different positions of that arm. The one where the cable end looks most normal, I mean where the long threaded part is mostly screwed in looks about right. I'm about to the point of removing the cover again and seeing if the "rack" and it's bearing are in good shape.
 
The actuator shaft, has got two position, spread around 90? apart;
remove the arm, twist the shaft, either clock or anticlockwise (taking note of the current position) and slot the arm back in.
Might help.
 
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I am really intrigued by the title of the thread.

Is it a typo or a REALLY unique bike? :-k

.
 
Can you also verify that the cable pulls smoothly when not connected to the actuator arm?
Might be as simple as a failed cheap cable.
 
I already confirmed the cable is smooth. First thing I did was to pull the clevis pin and feel the cable while my son held onto the disconnected end with various amounts of force against my pull. Now I had a CB1000 with the wrong perch on it once and it was very hard to pull. I put a stock OEM clutch perch and choke arm and it was instantly acceptable. I have no way of knowing if this is the correct lever perch for this bike. But since you mentioned it I'll go take a closer look and try to compare with pictures etc on the internet.
 
That's what I was thinking too about the perch - might be different with a greater pull than a stock one.

Maybe compare / try the one off your 750 to see it makes a difference.
 
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thanks hillsy but I only own one Suzuki now. 2 Harleys, a KZ1100 and the GS750. I do remember when I got this bike there was a lot of free play in the clutch lever. Perhaps the PO did that to cut down on the necessary throw. I can get a used perch on eBay pretty cheap but before I do that I want to explore a little more. First thing tomorrow I have to remove the tank for other stuff and I was thinking I'll disconnect the cable at the lever and pull it out of it's current routing and kinda loop it straight into the actuator arm just to make sure I don't have it routed wrong. It did come with after market bars and could be that I followed what the PO had done with routing which may have been wrong.
 
jdvorchak said:
thanks hillsy but I only own one Suzuki now. 2 Harleys, a KZ1100 and the GS750. I do remember when I got this bike there was a lot of free play in the clutch lever. Perhaps the PO did that to cut down on the necessary throw. I can get a used perch on eBay pretty cheap but before I do that I want to explore a little more. First thing tomorrow I have to remove the tank for other stuff and I was thinking I'll disconnect the cable at the lever and pull it out of it's current routing and kinda loop it straight into the actuator arm just to make sure I don't have it routed wrong. It did come with after market bars and could be that I followed what the PO had done with routing which may have been wrong.
Click to expand...

Ahh, yeah right - I saw the 850's in your sig and thought we were talking about one of them.....

Yep - get the cable as straight as you can. Some cables bind up quite easily with only minor bends, others not so much.
 
Just looking at the pics in your other thread - you might want to get a clutch cable with a bend at the perch end so you can run it down beside the headlight and past the near side of the neck. Also the actuator arm looks to be a bit far in and could do with being a notch or two further out.
 
Ok mark this one Solved. The cable routing was the culprit. After about the 3rd route I got it as smooth and easy as it's going to be.

First thing I did was remove the fuel tank which exposed the entire cable route. I checked the FSM and my cable did not pass through the frame like the diagram. So I took it loose at the lever and pulled the entire cable out to the left side of the bike. That gave me a big arc and I could feel that the cable was smoother and much easier. So then I referred to the manual and that didn't really work as I have aftermarket bars. I think these are Emgo "Super Bike" bars. I ended up, on about the 3rd or 4th route coming up with a route that allowed the cable to have big wide arcs.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.
 
Ok this is not solved. Seems to change almost daily and maybe I just need to get it put back together and ride it. When I had the clutch cover off and I also pulled the pressure plate off to inspect the clutch plates. All looked really good to me. But I did notice that the pressure plate springs were hard to put back in. I had to apply a lot of force to compress the springs just to get the bolts started. Is that normal? I'm wondering if a PO didn't put some whiz bang performance clutch and springs in. On my Honda clutches the bolts start and usually a couple of turns in before they engage the springs. That brings up another point. I didn't count the friction and steel plates. It wouldn't really surprise me if someone had added one. But I do remember that the pressure plate was below the level of the basket so at the time I didn't think that looked strange.

As it is today I have to remove all but the slightest lever free play to disengage the clutch. Otherwise the bike will creep on me and rpm goes down if I put it in gear from a stop.
 
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Sounds like the PO might have put some heavy duty springs in there - which will explain the heavy lever.

My 1150 used to have a bit of clutch drag. I just lived with it, but in hindsight it was probably slightly warped steel clutch plates.
 
Sorry to hear the problem ain`t solved yet;
before delving into springs and pressur plates, are you aware of the implications of the incorrect thickess of the cover gasket?
 
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Lorenzo said:
Sorry to hear the problem ain`t solved yet;
before delving into springs and pressur plates, are you aware of the implications of the incorrect thickess of the cover gasket?
Click to expand...

First I've heard of it. I have a new cover gasket on there but it's not OEM. Aftermarket gasket. Please elaborate.
 
Having had a similar problem i.e. gears not engaging, after a full gaskets replacement, I did a bit of scavenging in the old forum threads and out it came that a dissimilar gasket or, as in my case, an RTV seal, -being given the wrong one- can lead to this situation, and them were right!
Since you got two, try both `em on, or put the old one back if still useable.
After all, shifting was fine before you "disturbed" the plot...
 
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