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A question a twelve.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Road Rash
  • Start date Start date
R

Road Rash

Guest
I purchased a 1982 GS1100L and know nothing about the bike. I have read quite a few threads here and found them to be extremly helpful. :-D My bike seems to have all the symptoms that seem to be quite common through out the threads but the problems are numerous as are the threads. I need to start running them down one by one. All of which seem to be farily cheap to fix but the barrage is intimidating none the less. I think the first issue at hand is the fuel leak. It seems a Pingle pettcock is the first order, but I have just learned that the ON postion is where it needs to be and that would fix the gas under the bike issue. I took the carbs off and found this.

DSC00071.JPG


DSC00084.JPG


The carb's looked nice and clean but I cleaned them again anyhow. I just cut the velocity stacks off at the burn damage and they still seat up fine in the air box and the once the bike was reassembled it ran pretty good but stumbles under a load.

Here is a little video I made so you can hear it run without a load. http://www.roadrashsucks.com/video%20files/Roar.wmv

I also know the the air cleaner is old and the gasket that seats to the bottom of the air box/filter is gone. Will this cause the CV carbs to not work properly and may be causing the bike to stumble/backfire under a load (melting the air intake)? I realize that the problems are numerous and the solution is not easy but I like the challenge. I am wondering what you folks think caused the melted air intakes, which I think is the clue as to the real under lying problem with the bike not running properly under a load.

BTW here is a pic of the carbs fresh off the bike to show you how clean they were in the first place. I swear I did not clean them in the least prior to this picture.
DSC00076.JPG
 
You had a fire, replace the airbox or get pods. If the airbox is useable then just replace the boots. They are shaped a certain way to speed up air flow. The carbs may look clean but the many passages in them may not be. Buy a carb dip and dip them while they are off.(Make sure all rubber o-rings are removed first) You need a good sealed airbox for these carbs to work with the stock jetting.
http://www.cycleorings.com/
I would also check your floats, they might of melted a bit also.
 
I knew that I had a slight heat issue at one time, \\:D/ and I thought this would be were I needed to start. I don't know what Pod's are but I will use the search function. I would think they are just single filters that fit over each carb but the does not explain the need for a sealed air box. The air box is warped but the floats are fine, does not show an heat damage anyhow.
 
You are correct about the definition of pods. The carburetors are tuned to work with a sealed airbox. If you switch to pods, you must rejet the carbs to provide the proper fuel mixture with the change in air intake volume. Right now, I would guess you are probably running lean, making the bike run hot.

If you have a fuel leak, and as you implied above it is because the petcock is allowing fuel to overflow, then its possible you had fuel in the intake. With fuel in the intake, a backfire through the carb could easily ignite the fuel causing the melted boots in the airbox.

Fix the petcock, replace/repair the airbox or get pods and rejet. Make sure you clean ALL the passages in the carbs according to the feature on this site. Make sure the floats are adjusted properly. Here is a great resource for proper carburetor adjustments.

As for running the bike with things as they are: NO WAY! I would most definitely park it until the petcock and airbox issues are fixed and the carbs cleaned and reassembled.
 
Interesting. My 550 had the two center intakes torched as well. Both on the airbox and engine side. The carbs had also been setup to run way too rich with what looked like some kind of jet kit. My only guess was that the PO had sprayed starter fluid into the airbox and caused the rubber to deteriorate. The airbox itself was fine.

I just replaced that boots and got stock jets with the rebuild kits. I went stock everywhere and the bike has been running great.
 
GS850_coug

Your link is very helpfull.;-)

Chef1366
Again thanks.

Both notes have been logged. The air filter gasket is gone, (the foam on the base metal that hold the filter against the air box) and the air box itself is warped but still looks like it would seal if the filter had a gasket. I do not think the damage was from a fire per say but from spitting back. The reason I say that is the stacks have been sucked in towards the carbs (look at the picture very carefully). They would have just melted if the fire had occured while the bike was not running. No need to get into a debate as the issue is really that I need to go with pod's (once I replace the pettcock) or replace the airbox and v/stacks. The carbs/floats are fine no visable damage. So I cannot do any tuning until I get a seal on the stock set up or just go the pod route. What would be your suggestion if you were in my shoes? Can I find a new airbox? or should I go pods? I think the spitting back is due to a poor tune due to poor seals in the airbox that more than likely started chain reaction of destruction by the PO continuing to ride even though it was not performing well. Can you give me some links that you would suggest one way or the other. I hope you can understand what I am saying.
 
I went with pods for my 1100. The reason I made this decision was because of the hassle of the removal of the carbs. It was a pure pita. I also went with a stage 3 Dynojet jetting kit because I have an aftermarket 4-1 exhaust.
It was a hassle to get jetted properly but now it runs great. I also adjusted valve clearance and had the cams degreed in. Alot of people will tell you to stay with the stock setup and it is a personal decision.
http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/suzuki.aspx
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knpowersports/products?session_id=6c9afe309d4935a61214012ea09c2078
 
Outstanding! I have a stock exhuast and do not really need to replace, would the jet kit in the first link be a little to agressive for the stock exhuast set up?

I will have to admit I just looked quickly at the link and perhaps I am asking a question out of turn.
 
There is stage one and stage three kits. You need a stage one. Mine came together so any mods you want to make in the future, you have the kit. Read the Dynojet instructions, they break it down for you.
 
I thank you for your time and help. I will be ordering it soon, I do have one item of concern. I was able to disassemble the entire carbs the last time and reassemble no problem and even the stubbon screws I managed to get out without any damage but when I got to those air mixture screws I got two out and two would not budge. I slipped twice on them and even after soaking (WD40) them they did not want to give. I stripped the groove slightly but I do not think it is to late (if you will). But I have to take a different approach next time or it will be over. Any suggestions?
 
With a tight fitting and good screw driver try tightening them a bit before backing them out. (Thanks Keith) I broke a carb body once with this very same problem.
 
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