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Cable Lube Recommendations

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phil
  • Start date Start date
P

Phil

Guest
What are people using for cable lube out there? Any recommendations?

Thanks!
 
Whatever's on sale works fine.
I got several cans for a couple bucks at a garage sale a few years ago, lifetime supply.
 
I usually just remove the inner cable and spray it down with dry graphite spray.
Reinstall the cable and you are good to go for many, many years. Decades.


Daniel
 
For clutch cable, I disconnect the cable at the clutch lever so it sticks straight up, then I make a little funnel out of tape, then use oil, most any type will do, you can be as particular as you want, and pour it in the funnel and allow it to work it's way down the cable. Any lube is better than none.
For Speedometer and Tach, I pull the cable out and use powdered graphite from a tube and try to get as much even coverage on the cable
and put some inside the sleeve.
 
I use old motoroil, or lithium grease.

Normally I just glob the Cable ends with wheel/bearing grease, and work the cable in and out a buncha times. The corrosion and breakage happens near the exposed ends, so I just coat that part.
 
I use this. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx

Amsoil Heavy Duty metal protector.

I use it for alot of things. Chains, cables, locks, latches, hindges, and levers. Just about anything that needs something heavier than WD40

It sprays out thin and gells to a light grease. It's synthetic and waterproof. Lasts for years in cables and never dries out.

Soaks into chains doesn't fly off (if put on a warm chain and allowed to set up) and repells water.

You can order from that site.
 
If your concerns begin with a dry cable then you should pull it apart before adding new lube and be sure there are no loose bits of metal that may have come off the cable or the sheath. It often means little, but the bits can come together and the friction will throw the reading off, or even jam the cable enough to knock off the end fittings.


If you need to clean it, use a bit of your wife/girlfriends nylon and tape it to the DRY cable end, then oil it and pull it through. Once out, check for loose bits. If any, remove the nylon, re-insert the cable, and then repeat, using a fresh bit of nylon.

After that, add a few drops of oil (NOT WD40) to the empty sheath and let them run all the way through. Coat the cable with a light grease and reassemble.
 
In the past I have used break free CLP. But I'm open to try something different if there is something better.

I usually rub the cable end with paraffin wax to help protect it. Grease will get nasty.
 
I will also issue the following warning based on firsthand experience: do NOT use chain lube or anything that thickens, or you will find one frosty morning that your clutch lever is nearly impossible to pull when it's cold enough for the lube to solidify.

Seriously. :eek:

Real cable lube is well worth the $10 - $15, ya buncha cheap so-and-sos.
 
bwringer said:
I will also issue the following warning based on firsthand experience: do NOT use chain lube or anything that thickens, or you will find one frosty morning that your clutch lever is nearly impossible to pull when it's cold enough for the lube to solidify.

Seriously. :eek:

Real cable lube is well worth the $10 - $15, ya buncha cheap so-and-sos.
Click to expand...


This doesn't happen with the Amsoil lube I recommended in my post. Another reason why I use it. It also resists high temperatures. I have seen in cases where there cable is short and touches, or gets close to the head, that the lube will burn up and crystalize in the cable. This can also cause it to bind up and jam. Disassembly and cleaning is needed for these contamination related problems. But a shot of lube won't usually help those problems. If it frees up right away with a shot of lube, You should be OK.
 
Honestly... the needle application stuff is worth it. Just by the fact that it's so easy it means your cable probably get lubed 3x as much as normal. You don't have to loosen the cable, remove from the lever or anything. Stick the needle down beside the cable, squeeze & pull it out.

Harley's version:

94968_09_L_23eeb.jpg


Another one:

41-hXRE-WxL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


The Inox one I have:

Inox-001.jpg
 
salty_monk said:
Honestly... the needle application stuff is worth it. Just by the fact that it's so easy it means your cable probably get lubed 3x as much as normal. You don't have to loosen the cable, remove from the lever or anything. Stick the needle down beside the cable, squeeze & pull it out.

Harley's version:

94968_09_L_23eeb.jpg


Another one:

41-hXRE-WxL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


The Inox one I have:

Inox-001.jpg
Click to expand...

Haha Harley Lube!
I wonder if they'll reject your warranty if you choose another brand of lube!
 
I thought Harley lube was the stuff the Harley salesman use on paying customers.



Actually the first tube with the needle is the same container I use but mine says Glock
 
I've gone back to this. I use a VW turn signal plug protector for the funnel though. I have had those little lube thingys, but they kind of squirted all about too much.

Might try the syringe some time.

Speedo and tach, I like to slide the inner out and put motor oil on it and slide it back in.

sedelen said:
For clutch cable, I disconnect the cable at the clutch lever so it sticks straight up, then I make a little funnel out of tape, then use oil, most any type will do, you can be as particular as you want, and pour it in the funnel and allow it to work it's way down the cable. Any lube is better than none.
For Speedometer and Tach, I pull the cable out and use powdered graphite from a tube and try to get as much even coverage on the cable
and put some inside the sleeve.
Click to expand...
 
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