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Chain/sprocket, chain tool reccomendations?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Junkie
  • Start date Start date
J

Junkie

Guest
Well, on my pre-ride inspection before my trip home today I noticed that the clip was gone from my master link. That's not good. It was there this morning... good thing I noticed it.


Anyway, I no longer trust clip-type master links. I could use a new chain and sprockets anyway, so this is a good excuse to replace them.


What chain should I go with? What sprockets? I mostly care about cost/mile in this case. http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2865 will that rivet the chain, or just take it apart... I need to do both. Money is a bit of an issue.
 
Clips are fine, don't bend them putting them on, don't put them on backwards, don't re-use them if they are shot, don't use a clip from a different brand chain...
And check them like you did.
 
At this point, I simply don't trust them. Even if they're fine almost all the time, I did everything right (aside from possibly reusing it when it was shot, but nothing seemed wrong with it to me).
 
i have a shaft driven bike but with paying attention here for a while, i have read about people replacing their chains with a 520 chain and sprockets. not sure if that only goes with replacing the swingarm too. best wait till the experts come.
 
Junkie said:
At this point, I simply don't trust them. Even if they're fine almost all the time, I did everything right (aside from possibly reusing it when it was shot, but nothing seemed wrong with it to me).
Click to expand...

Chains can fail, driveshafts can seize. Tires can come apart. A big rock can fall on your head. Your dick can explode or it can just fall off...
Schit happens.
 
catbed said:
i have a shaft driven bike but with paying attention here for a while, i have read about people replacing their chains with a 520 chain and sprockets. not sure if that only goes with replacing the swingarm too. best wait till the experts come.
Click to expand...
The only real reason to do a 520 conversion is if you've got clearance issues or are really intent on going fast. It's in order to save a little bit of weight. I'm more concerned about getting a lot of miles out of the chain than getting a little bit better performance.
 
tkent02 said:
Chains can fail, driveshafts can seize. Tires can come apart. A big rock can fall on your head. Your dick can explode or it can just fall off...
Schit happens.
Click to expand...
I just had a chain fail. Had I not been REALLY on the ball, it would've failed and would've come off on the freeway. Had it come off going up the grade, at reasonably high rpm and throttle, there's a decent chance I would've toasted my engine even if the chain didn't jam at the front sprocket and crack the cases there.


Yes, there are other places it can fail. Removing one way after it already happened to me seems to be a reasonable thing, though.
 
Getting a rivet-type master link costs a little bit more, but that's the only real disadvantage to it. The same is not true of getting a volvo.
 
New 530 x-ring chain and a new set of JT sprockets from Z1 and you're set for a LONG time for about $130.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=GS700ESF-1985-MP0

Clip masters can cause a host of preventable problems that can be seriously detrimental to both the bike's and/or your own health if/when the chain comes apart.

Easily avoided though by using a rivet master link. Not to mention that the rivet masters are easier to install IMO than the clip masters, provided you have the correct chain riveter tool. Like this one: http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/318427/drive-systems-chain-press-and-rivet-tool.html
 
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