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Cooked Rectifier/Regulator

  • Thread starter Thread starter SteveM
  • Start date Start date
raistian77 said:
Also, get the Honda R/R, you will be glad you did. Sheds heat better and have a cleaner waveform than the Suzuki ones.

.
Click to expand...


I noticed this comment; want to elaborate? Not sure why a Honda would been any cleaner.
 
I have contacted member duaneage regarding the Honda RR he sells, but am still waiting for his reply. I'm guessing he's not online much. In any case, I have already paid for a new RR from RM Stator in Quebec and it's scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

My bike is virtually spotless and all conections look new without any corriosion I've unplugged, inspected and reconnected everything I could find and it all looks great. I checked the fuse box and all fuses as well.
 
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posplayr said:
I noticed this comment; want to elaborate? Not sure why a Honda would been any cleaner.
Click to expand...

Aw man, your gonna make me dig it up.

I have scope vid somewhere of mine before and after the R/R upgrade. the charging wavefore was cleaner that it was with the Suzuki R/R.
 
Now honestly it may have been a sign the suzy one was old and tired.
Turning on and off loads caused hashing in the waveform that took a few cycles the "clean" back up. With the Honda R/R it was much faster and the hashing was nowhere near as severe.
 
raistian77 said:
Now honestly it may have been a sign the suzy one was old and tired.
Turning on and off loads caused hashing in the waveform that took a few cycles the "clean" back up. With the Honda R/R it was much faster and the hashing was nowhere near as severe.
Click to expand...

I have not noticed a whole lot of difference in any of the waveforms I have seen even comparing OEM, Honda, FET and SERIES. When not regulating the outputs are pretty quite, but once the regulation starts all R/R's open from the charging system and 10-12 amps starts being fed from the battery (on a cycle by cycle basis). I think that is where most of the ripple comes from and most all do the same thing except the SERIES which doesnt short the stator.

All seem to use a voltage detector to trigger either an SCR or FET which is pretty abrupt in either case. The FET ones may be a little more intense as the voltage drops are less. I'm wondering if the SERIES have more radiated emissions but have not quantified it yet.

I have a proximity sensor on my rear wheel (on 5 ft of twisted pair) that seems to be picking up some noise. Will be investigating that.
 
posplayr said:
I have not noticed a whole lot of difference in any of the waveforms I have seen even comparing OEM, Honda, FET and SERIES. When not regulating the outputs are pretty quite, but once the regulation starts all R/R's open from the charging system and 10-12 amps starts being fed from the battery (on a cycle by cycle basis). I think that is where most of the ripple comes from and most all do the same thing except the SERIES which doesnt short the stator.

All seem to use a voltage detector to trigger either an SCR or FET which is pretty abrupt in either case. The FET ones may be a little more intense as the voltage drops are less. I'm wondering if the SERIES have more radiated emissions but have not quantified it yet.

I have a proximity sensor on my rear wheel (on 5 ft of twisted pair) that seems to be picking up some noise. Will be investigating that.
Click to expand...

Let me know what you find out, I am interested in that.

Like I sayed it may have been the suzy one was close to failing, I forgot to check if it was A/C being leaked into the system. Had a Cadillac Catera in the shop once that had a BCM behaving strangely. Windows would open and shut at random same with the sunroof. Locks and seat controls would also randomly cycle. Turns out the alternator had failed and was injecting large amounts of A/C current into the system.

I like the looks of the series unit, thinking of eventually upgrading to one of those.
 
Also noticed that by the schematic in the "stator papers" the GS charging system is very similar to an automotive alternator of comparable year. minus the motorcycle system spins at a slower rpm.
 
raistian77 said:
Also noticed that by the schematic in the "stator papers" the GS charging system is very similar to an automotive alternator of comparable year. minus the motorcycle system spins at a slower rpm.
Click to expand...

Not really the same as an alternator had a field winding that is being regulated by output voltage to control the total output of the alternator.

The SHUNT R/R's simply short the output as there is no Field control. The SERIES is a little more like an alternator as it is able to completely Shut off the output of the stator by opening the windings but that is about as far as it goes as far as similarity.

The early GSXR's did in fact have alternators probably because without them they would burn out the stators at high RPM.
 
raistian77 said:
Let me know what you find out, I am interested in that.

Like I sayed it may have been the suzy one was close to failing, I forgot to check if it was A/C being leaked into the system. Had a Cadillac Catera in the shop once that had a BCM behaving strangely. Windows would open and shut at random same with the sunroof. Locks and seat controls would also randomly cycle. Turns out the alternator had failed and was injecting large amounts of A/C current into the system.

I like the looks of the series unit, thinking of eventually upgrading to one of those.
Click to expand...

If a diode shorted then yes there would be alot of AC being pumped into the electrical.

If you end up with a fried stator I would go for the SERIES R/R and get Electrosports stators as they seem well constructed. With the SHUNT R/R there may be slight differences in longevity due to wire size windings but with the SERIES R/R doesn't matter, you just want the stator rugged against vibration and electromotive forces..
 
Replaced the RR today with a new unit from RM Stator. Dyelectric grease added and it was a simple plug and play operation. Battery shows 13.86 volts at 1500 rpm idle.
 
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Glad to see it worked out, I responded to your requests but my inbox was full and it didn't go.
 
SteveM said:
Replaced the RR today with a new unit from RM Stator. Dyelectric grease added and it was a simple plug and play operation. Battery shows 13.86 volts at 1500 rpm idle.
Click to expand...

Don't tell me they put a bullet connector on the negative (green wire)???? :eek:

Hopefully you put a ring lug on it and grounded it to the case with the other single point wires .
 
posplayr said:
Don't tell me they put a bullet connector on the negative (green wire)???? :eek:

Hopefully you put a ring lug on it and grounded it to the case with the other single point wires .
Click to expand...

The single bullet connector was part of the OEM wiring and the replacement RR used the exact same thing. What's a ring lug?
 
SteveM said:
The single bullet connector was part of the OEM wiring and the replacement RR used the exact same thing. What's a ring lug?
Click to expand...

Ring Lug

http://www.google.com/products/cata...log_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CBQQ8wIwAg#

All current going out the red wire has to come back into that green wire. So any thing that is grounded through the frame somehow has to find it's way back.

If you see my sig you will see a recommendation for improving the grounding to make it better. The main part of that is to get rid of bullet connections between the R/R-stator and battery.

I bought a new harness and still ended up hacking it to make the required changes.
 
posplayr said:
All current going out the red wire has to come back into that green wire. So any thing that is grounded through the frame somehow has to find it's way back.

If you see my sig you will see a recommendation for improving the grounding to make it better. The main part of that is to get rid of bullet connections between the R/R-stator and battery.

I bought a new harness and still ended up hacking it to make the required changes.
Click to expand...

So is it advised to ground that green wire directly to the frame using a ring lug?
 
SteveM said:
So is it advised to ground that green wire directly to the frame using a ring lug?
Click to expand...

see the link

RR_Grounds.jpg
 
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